ASH.

Neil, the build quality on the Seagull PC-9 (40-46) is superb. I could find no fault with it even with my highly 'critical eye'. It is traditionally built using good wood and the covering is Oracover in an attractive/ visible colour scheme. Put a good 46 - 55 2 s/t and it will do all that you want. It has a thick semi-symetrical wing section so you can fly it like a basic trainer or a full on aerobat. A friend flew his with a OS 46LA (light engine) and could do knife-edge figure 8's in the vertical a few feet off the ground. It comes with no vices, no tip stall. It will take your flying to another level - you won't be disappointed. It looks really neat landing on the mains then slowly bringing the nose down - just like the full-size heavy jets. Change the foam wheels for slightly larger rubbers and strenghten in all right places- ESP landing gear blocks via wing root. I used 30min 2 ton epoxy mixed with a little milled fibreglass (Great Planes). And seal all film edges inc trim with clearcoat and it will stay in 'showroom condition'. Mine came out at 3kg AUW with Irvine 53, 15gm in starboard wing and 15gm on tail to have most rearward CG. I do overdo it when it comes to beefying up. Mine was built like a Tank. It survived many little mishaps. Once a main wheel caught some undergrowth on strip threshold spun it on it's side, it then proceeded to cartwheel down the strip finally rising 10ft in the air and landing on it's back. Not a scratch. Gave us all had a good laugh. Lesson learnt- keep eyes on wheels when landing! Yes, I do miss tricycle gear - they're great fun.

Seagull PC-9. Good quality, Excellent flyer.

Roger, you're in a dilemma now.. You've committed to the Castor and now you hear all these scare stories. Even I'm buying into it! Your engine will be fine no matter what lubes it. It is a 2 stroke after all. Like you, I hate wastage.

Then, to play it safe and have no worries -order a litre of quality Castor oil from Model Technics. It's also the cheapest option.

Good Castor oil is available from Model Technics. Could be ordered to a local model shop if they sell their fuel. Not all oils mix with Methanol. Edited By ASH. on 27/10/2018 19:37:47

Roger, it depends on what synthetic oil is already in the fuel. It could be ML70 or Klotz (US,very expensive). Both are available over here. Or you could just top up with a few % castor. I have no experience with steel pistons and liners but I would just run it with the fuel you have keeping an eye on the temp and smell. Is the engine run in?

The easiest way to prevent or stop any kind of syphoning is to loop the carb line up over the engine mount first. I do that with all installs - works without fail. I don't prescribe to "the carb line has to be short as possible".

Little birds don't fly too well in the wind and in strong wind they don't fly at all. Light foaamies just float about.. so unlike a real plane! It's not real flying.Edited By ASH. on 06/10/2018 21:59:59

Nice fleet Ron, bit expensive for 'combat flying'!!

Excellent photos chaps. I do like you're first one Ron - 'emergency landing in a cornfield'. What camera are you using? And what's the model? The Extra in second pic looks so sorry for itself. Ultymate, your photos are excellent, esp like the Camel and Monocoupe For me, photography is all about light and composure. Edited By ASH. on 05/10/2018 20:52:50

Kevin, if you want to stick with a foam model for the time being and want a low winger, then, have a look at the Acro Wot Foamie. On low rates it should do you fine as a step up from a trainer.

I bought a brand new Futaba 8FG Super on the internet as they were then discontinued and not available in the shops. I had done my research and the 14CH set ticked all the boxes and covered all my needs. However, once in my hand I hated it. The ergonomics did not feel right, it was slim and slippery and the menu system was naff. I sold it at quite a loss and bought a second hand 12FG. It is beautiful. A Tx has to feel right in your hands in terms of balance, weight and size.

Those flaps look huge John, you'll have great fun flying flying her low and slow. Cannot understand the added longer strip, doesn't look flush with the rest of it. It is a handsome looking model.. And it comes with aerofoil tail surfaces which is nice. I would be interested in one myself if I didn't have a high winger already (Toledo Special). Do paint the wood (black or grey) in front behind the canopy. A review that might interest you. http://www.rcuniverse.com/articles/review/seagull-models-funky-cub-10-15cc-arf/

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 11/09/2018 22:21:34: It would have been really nice if they had also shown what I would call `proper` i/c models being flown before the obviously necessary for the program foamie ones. Totally agree Martin. I found it amateurish and a bit boring. Some of the history was interesting though. (Episode 1)   Edited By ASH. on 17/09/2018 00:16:29

That's good John, it's always worth taking the time and trouble to get things right, just the way you want it, My perfectionism really comes out in my model making. Part of the fun I suppose. I need to be 100% happy with it - even before it sees the outdoors. I hope the balloon wheels are not too big.. unless of course you plan landing on mountain tops!

Hmm.. that is a bit of a gap. It should be okay though. You can harden the balsa under hinge points by soaking with thin cyno. I find Seagull models to be very good value for money and the quality is excellent. I forgot you're using a petrol engine., I always go over all joints in fuselage and wing root area with aliphatic and epoxy. (going to try Superphatic next time) I also epoxy an exact size ply plate inside for undercarriage mount and use 5mm nylon bolts which can shear easily. I also replace the foam wheels with larger rubber ones. My models may be a few ounces heavier but they're virtually 'bullet proof' and bounce proof You've got a nice model there John, the red and silver is eye catching. Here's a vid if you haven't already seen it. The flap gap is visible at 2.20 and 2.35 https://youtu.be/XrR5Uu9AsQA

As with all flight control surfaces it's best not to have any gap or minimal. I take it your flap leading edge has no chamfer that's why the gap on top when deployed. I say fly it as is and see, then try with some film covering the gap. I don't know if tape will hold flap hinges, there is quite some force on flaps.

Ron, if the flaps are raised quickly it can cause a sudden loss of lift.. I'm thinking of 'aborted landing' scenario. That's why on full size aircraft it's normal practice to keep them down until speed and height are gained. John, I'd be interested in knowing how you make f/g hinges for flaps - when you get around to it. Edited By ASH. on 15/09/2018 23:52:10

About 4-5 seconds up and down.. you don't want it to take all day! Flying with half flaps down is so nice for slow scale flying. It will save some electrons as well. Edited By ASH. on 15/09/2018 22:21:14

There's much advantage in slowing flap servos. It prevents any sudden change in attitude and so looks much smoother. Also, the model does not have to be slowed down esp using half flaps. And it looks so much nicer - like full size. I put flaps on one switch - half flap and full flap.

I have tried the MA classic props but find they flex too much and are just too noisy for my ears. They do look nice on scale models. I have done static thrust tests with a Saito 72 and found APC came out on top!Edited By ASH. on 13/09/2018 17:49:25

Don't use a wood prop or you risk having an engine cut. It's happened to me on idle coming down in a loop. They are just too light and don't have the flywheel effect. Heavy APC's are the best for thrust and efficiency, they don't flex.

  "Remember too that rpm will drop as the engine heats up..."   Why is that Jon ? I would like to know the technical reason for that? Is it because the chrome plated cylinder expands?

I'm confused.. Are we talking about an ASP 4 stroke or 2 stroke? I keep reading about both on this tread. "One day I hope to find-out where my missing 1000 revs are".. Lol. I know exactly where your 1000 revs have gone Colin. They've been sucked up by the oil and not enough nitro. It's because of the excessive oil content in your SM Hi lube and because you're using only 5% nitro. On my Irvine 53 there was a marked difference between 5 and 10% nitro. On my Saito 72 4st I was getting 8500 rpm @ WOT on APC 14x6 prop with Contest 10, which contains 18% total oil (3% Castor, I'm ol' school). As an experiment I decided to reduce the oil content. If Jon can run his Lasers on 10% then why can't I?. I did a lot of research on the net and found many experienced modellers had done the same with positive results. I was always a bit skeptical in believing that oil could cause any kind of significant drag. So, I diluted the Contest 10 with 50% pure Methanol to get 12% total oil and 6.6% nitro. To my amazement the revs went up and I had to screw in both needles. The main by over half turn and the idle by a quarter. It can go more but I'm happy with the results. At WOT I get well over 9000, on idle 2800. The engine runs a bit hotter but it's acceptable. The big difference is in fuel economy. I fly for 12 minutes and land with third tank full. It's an 11oz tank. Before, 12 minutes would empty the tank. And there's hardly any oil on the model to wipe off after. That's also down to exhaust and vent position. My suggestion Colin is use a fuel with less oil and 10% nitro,. Do let us know you get on. PS. Do not run the engine @ WOT for more than a few seconds at a time when tuning. You'll cook it. Don't ask me how I know

Excellent video Colin and a beautiful model.. On my Irvine 53 mounted inverted I had to use an OS F plug to ensure a consistent idle and eliminate flame out. It did advance the ignition and I got some detonation (pre ignition) which I feared would blow up my engine or damage it at least. But it was cured by acutely leaning out of the low end needle. I used a heavier 12x6 Graupner prop and Contest 10 fuel. I did try 5% but noticed a considerable difference in power. Edited By ASH. on 27/07/2018 17:58:15