ASH.

Not sure about stain removable.. but I avoid drips and spills with some 'best practice' after flying. That is.. I de-fuel the tank using the fill line, plug that. Then start engine again to clear carb line until engine stops. This leaves the engine bone dry and all lines fuel free. I then squirt after run oil into crankcase breather tube which is tied to silencer. Then plug that line. Then a good wipe over the model with Tesco anti-bac lemon multi-surface wipes. It leaves my model in showroom condition and smelling lovely! Plug the exhaust with paper towel and wrap the whole nose of model with large absorbent sheet tied on with a plastic bag to cover it. Job done. It sounds like a right palava but it's an easy system to carry out. It ensure there are no drips of oil or fuel anywhere.

+1 for Futaba 3001's. I use them on all my medium size sports models. They have indirect drive, have a bearing and the torque is 3kg on 6V. With a 25% Sukhoi you may want more powerful servos if you use a powerful engine and plan to do any 3D type of flying. 3010's should do the job.

" Look, No Strings! "

You're never too old in R/C flying for anything.. Seen the OAP's flying drones !

The Seagull Yak 54 Gary suggested above is perfect for your flying needs. For flying IMAC. It looks good too being a scale version of the full size. Nice colour scheme and size with quality covering. What's not to like? You will have to strenghten it very very well, your petrol engine is going to want to shake it to bits!!

Sam, when I said 'Perhaps the ones you've seen fall apart were poorly built, (cheap glues etc).' I meant poorly put together by the modeller not the factory. Using pound shop glue instead of quality 2 ton epoxy for tail feathers etc. My mistake for not making it clear. Sam, we're only trying to help you here because we want you to succeed, and whatever is suggested comes from a good place and with experience. We modellers are a very helpful lot and we want others to have the fun and pleasure we do without too much of the disappointment. Thanks Ron for explaining it clearly.

Another Seagull - **LINK**

Seagull Bowers Flybaby - http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/p12650/SEAGULL_Bowers_Flybaby_10-15cc_-_SEA-238/product_info.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=xigen_shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ZbaBRBUEiwA4VQCIUrNlp76UI6Bnv4KxSfLqPQXHQqldMmqyFRGkO_3mKcU_4NSkXOmFhoCRXAQAvD_BwE Edited By ASH. on 11/07/2018 20:21:56

I have to disagree Sam, Seagull models are some of the best. They have good wood, excellent construction and are superb value for money. Cannot be beaten. As with all ARTF's you have to strengthen in places, it's the norm. Perhaps the ones you've seen fall apart were poorly built, (cheap glues etc). Also, 3D models need high power to weight so are built for lightness and so are inherently more fragile.

As Don says - 'if it doesn't fit your hand then it's no good'. It has to be comfortable to hold. I had a new 8Fg Super and just did not like the feel of it. It was a girl's tranny, too slim smooth and slippery. I would not have been able to live with it. The programming was naff too. Ergonomic design is important to me.

Sam, the model to go for is ; H-King MX2 3D EPP 955mm ARF. £45 and you can do all the 3D you want.

There is most definitely I just can't think of it right now!

Expo is great but only in very small amounts. I don't fly 3d so never need the ridiculous 45%+ etc. It all depends on type of model, size and type of control surfaces. I use 12% max for sport models, I need it. Raw doesn't suit me. ( 13% we had mathematically calculated makes for linear . For a novice flyer who has no knowledge what is best for him or what he would like I would dial in 10% just to ever so slightly smooth out the centre. Negative 10% on throttle with 2st glow works well too.

The Parkzone Wildcat is a great little foamy, flys good looks good and turns on a sixpence with it's rudder. The P47 is another good flyer esp with two stage flaps. No need for undercarriage with either one they belly land just fine. If you go for the Wildcat which they have just brought out again.. do strenghten the flimsy plastic cowl with fibreglass or else you be buying another. Edited By ASH. on 01/07/2018 20:10:24

No you're right, mine has a mechanical set. I believe the earlier version did need some work doing to it. The pain with mine is the separate elevator pushrods and their bends. The elevators don't move absolutely perfectly together. Will have to fly it see if there's any slight roll. Mine does have a pilot, her name is Elly Beinhorn, I'm afraid she has to go, she looks far too happy. I was thinking of making a little suitcase for the back seat. Got to finish her and fly her first. You could always give a short pilot a booster seat.

Hi Bob, yes you have the earlier version in white with dark blue cowl. Mine is the later one in all silver oracover with panel lines. It is a beautiful scale model with nice curves and a huge canopy. Haven't flown mine yet, need to make ply wheel wells for it some day. Mine has a Saito 82 so should be fine. I am well impressed with the quality of Graupner, the wood quality is excellent. Shame they are no longer around. I was thinking of using a separate battery for the retracts but Dave Wiltshere once commented that it wasn't necessary. I've seen the full size 108 close up and was very surprised at how small it was. The 108 looks nice in desert camo colour too. I think it was Rommel's personal transport plane. Edited By ASH. on 30/06/2018 20:21:55

Apologies, forget my above post. I forgot Rich want telemetry.

Futaba for me as well, I'm 'old school'. Never had a signal loss, brown out or such with my 7C on FASST. It is bullet proof. I bought a new 8FG Super and although it had 14 ch and backlit screen I just didn't like the programming method, too nerdy for me and I hated the feel of it so I sold it. I looked at the 14SG but that too was similar and not ergonomic enough for me. I then bought a s/h 12FG and could not be happier. Very powerful 14ch radio with 8 conditions per model and you don't have to work around things when it comes to programming which I detest. For me the weight and battery life are important too. The 16 and 18SZ are nice but I don't need all the 'bells and whistles' just solid functionality. Rich, if you only fly FASST do consider a used 12FG or 12Z. There was a (like new) 12Z on BMFA classifieds the other day for £175. If you do go for a newer model do actually handle it first.

It will pass.. It always does but I do want to get the engine/exhaust throughly cleaned out professionally. Like my model engines I want everything clean and operating at it's optimum. Off topic slightly.. What's the easiest way to remove carbon from exhaust chamber on 4st engine without dismantling. Any magic solutions.

I have my car booked in for service and MOT tomorrow. It's quite a few years old and a TDi. It does smoke if revved hard. My mechanic told me there are companies that will de-coke the system, it costs about £80. I think I saw Ed China do the same on Wheeler Dealers. It gives the engine/exhaust(?) system a through clean out of all carbon deposits. My car probably needs a new EGR. Percy mentioned getting a hybrid/electric car in future. Please no! I don't know why I have such a dislike (understatement) for battery operated cars. They are silent so dangerous and when ever I'm stuck behind a Prius I know I'm not going anywhere fast - max speed 20mph.. grrrr!

It'll be fine.. I had glow fuel 10 yrs old.. worked perfectly in a 2st. I too hate to waste it.

They have some good clamps in. 2x 300mm and 2x 150mm + 2x 100mm sizes. ?5.99 per set. They are quite heavy duty.

So many different things for you to try out Russ, gosh. The first thing that came to my mind was engine load which is at it's max at rotation until the wings get the lift proper and start flying. So my guess is it's leaning out or it's too rich. Also, the correct prop makes a big difference. If it's too light (wooden) it's not going to give the flywheel effect. If you have the engine inverted try an OS F type plug, worked brilliantly with my Irvine 53. Keeps the fire alive. Also, I've read.. white bits in fuel is castor separation especially in cold weather.Edited By ASH. on 31/05/2018 00:24:12

An MDS 48 was my first ic engine and saw me through the A test. I know people slag them off but I had no trouble with mine. As the Doctor says it's either too rich or too lean on the main needle. Use an Enya No3 plug or OS 8 and put at least 12x6 APC or another heavy nylon prop for flywheel effect. It starts so there's nothing major wrong.. just a bit of tweaking needed.

  Ian, the way to prevent any fuel running back out through the pressure line is to loop the tubing up over the engine mount first then down to the exhaust. I always loop all three lines, it also prevents siphoning to an inverted mount. You will have to take the tank out and put in longer tubing, whilst there check free movement of the clunks and fit metal fuel clips at the outlets. No risk of slippage then. As said above.. no extra valves! ps it's good practise to drain tank of all fuel after flying session and burn off any left in carb line. Edited By ASH. on 12/05/2018 21:57:07