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John Muir

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  1. John Muir
    I'll have a go.
  2. John Muir
    Count me in please.
  3. John Muir
    Include me please.
  4. John Muir
    I'm in.
  5. John Muir
    I'll have a go.
  6. John Muir
    Gender neutral.
  7. John Muir
    My first Musketeer was initially powered by a dreadful old Magnum 40. It flew perfectly well on that and when it broke I fitted an SC36 which was a bit heavier but perked the plane up no end. The model met its demise not long after that unfortunately. A .32 would be plenty.
  8. John Muir
    Here's mine. Must get round to fitting the canopy.
  9. John Muir

    John Muir posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  10. John Muir
    Good all round sport aerobat and tough as old boots. Not tough enough to survive taking off with the aileron servo unplugged though so I'm on my second, comfortably powered by an OS40LA. I put small servos at the tail on this one and used two servos for the ailerons and added a steerable nosewheel. I think the MDS will make it ballistic but might make it a little nose heavy as I think it was originally meant for a plain bearing 35 or similar. Something to watch out for.
  11. John Muir
    On the other hand, a 2826-1000 fits easily, leaving plenty of room for the wires back to the esc, only weighs 70g against 100+ for a bigger motor and actually works very well, something I can say with confidence as I've been using mine like that for a few years now. Hope you find something suitable.
  12. John Muir
    A Tornado Thumper 2836 1120kv at £20 from Sussex Model Centre would do the job. I use a 1000kv motor in my Phoenix mk1 with a 10x6 and get about 210W on a 3S battery, which is perfectly adequate as far as I'm concerned. Edited By John Muir on 23/07/2020 12:31:26
  13. John Muir
    Club treasurer probably missed the second bulk upload date and is trying to shift the blame to the BMFA.
  14. John Muir
    You need to charge at a higher rate of 0.5 - 1C. Any less and the battery will never get warm enough to cause the voltage drop that the charger is trying to detect. The battery should be quite warm to the touch when the charge completes. It may be that you've been repeatedly overcharging your pack which may have damaged it. I'm not sure about the peak detect cut-off. I normally leave that at the default setting. However, an hour's flying on a 700mAh battery probably just flattened it. I'd go with the spare battery idea if it was me.
  15. John Muir
    Hi Chris, I've no personal experience of goggles, but I am an optician, so I can tell you that you won't need reading glasses with any decent goggles as they all have very strong magnifying lenses built in to focus your eyes on the tiny screens so that it's just as if you were looking at something far away. If you wear distance glasses you'd need that just as you would for, say, driving. Gary's two pairs of +3 readers does a reasonable job of focusing at that very short distance, but as he's discovered, can't help with the huge amount of convergence needed. Two screens, one for each eye would be much better. The cheaper 'box' type seems to use a smart phone screen and, in the pictures Gary posted, that big clear plastic sheet seems to be a Fresnel magnifier which will be totally inadequate for the job. HTH John
  16. John Muir
    Can't use cyano either, but UHU POR works very well. I've used it to assemble three Twisted models and never had a problem.
  17. John Muir
    A 32'' span Twisted Hobbys model, such as a Crack Yak or small Beaver. You wouldn't even need to lose the fence. Check Youtube or RC groups for videos. Made of EPP (nothing to do with ceiling tiles, if it makes you feel any better) so tough as old boots and made for flying, not for looking at. I was flying my Crack Yak yesterday from just outside my back door. Hand launch and can land almost vertically. Great fun.
  18. John Muir
    I updated my D16 receivers because I recently bought a G-RX8 and used it for the first time while it was still on the V1 firmware. While the plane was on the ground, waiting for me to get my act together, I heard, on a couple of occasions, very short servo movements or twitches. Nothing visible, just audible. When the glider was in the air, I'd come in low and opened the throttle to climb out and the motor shut down very briefly, then immediately picked up again. The other controls didn't centre so I don't think it was a failsafe. This all worried me somewhat and I was concerned that I was seeing the early signs of the problem. I've now re-flashed the transmitter and receivers but the weather isn't playing ball so haven't flown with them yet, but I can say that the firmware change has certainly done something odd to the G-RX8 telemetry and I can't get the vario to shut up now, the 'centre silent' setting isn't working. However, I'd rather have a secure control link in the meantime and hopefully get the telemetry sorted later on. I did range test a couple of X4r receivers on V2 and got to something like 90 paces in range test mode with full control, which is far as I can get in my garden, and the basic RSSI and voltage telemetry was working. Be interested to know if anybody else has updated and how they got on. John.
  19. John Muir
    Probably thinking of Marionville Models Mike. Seems to have moved to Livingston and gone over to drones and Warhammer games these days. There's Scoonie Hobbies in Kirkcaldy. I haven't been there in ages but used to keep a reasonable stock of balsa and bits and pieces. Maybe a bit off your route though.
  20. John Muir
    Hi Chris, I've updated my QX7 and I still have D8. I don't think that's affected at all. Which is just as well as most of my models are on D8. The X8R receiver loses D8 capability if upgraded, but I think that's the only one that does. I actually reset my only X8R to D8 before I upgraded the transmitter and left the X8R firmware alone. I used to use it with a module before and D8 works perfectly. I'll upgrade it once I'm happy everything is working properly. As far as I'm aware the new firmware can be hacked and will, no doubt, be pirated by the likes of Jumper to use free of charge in due course. It will just take time. Mike Blandford seemed to be on the road to reverse engineering it for his own use so he'll maybe know more.
  21. John Muir
    I'm sure one of my clubmates built one of these for electric power not so long ago. I don't know exactly what happened but it didn't last long. He'd fitted ailerons and said it was very difficult to fly and that he thought he'd have been better off leaving it as rudder and elevator only.
  22. John Muir
    Paul there's no such thing as indestructable. Given enough time and determination I can break anything. But the nearest you can get would be something made of EPP foam. Robotbirds have a couple of EPP trainers and Hacker Models make a few. All fairly ARTF and electric powered. They will be generally fairly light but might cope with a bit of a breeze and will teach you the basics at least. EPP is lovely bouncy stuff and as tough as old boots. The Wild Thing slope soarer I have is made of EPP and can thumped into the slope repeatedly without damage. Other foams, such as EPO, are fairly durable and easy to glue back together, but not a patch on EPP. Balsa models can't come close for toughness but are much more satisfying to build and fly IMO. Maybe what you need rather than a tough model, is a good conventional model and an instructor with a buddy box. Is joining a club out of the question?
  23. John Muir
    Phoenix 2000 is what I go for if it's windy. Any powered slope soarer type of thing or warmliner/hotliner would be just the job as they're designed for the winds you get up a hill. And you can go slope soaring with them if all else fails.
  24. John Muir
    Looks more like a DB Mascot to me. Will fly very nicely on a 35. I had an Chart Mascot, same thing but with a foam wing, that flew well on a really weak Magnum 40. The Hi-Boy had a veneered foam wing and ply fuselage and was pretty heavy.
  25. John Muir
    Just because the prop was turning doesn't mean the motor was running. The throttle would have been closed to enter the spin and assuming the cause of the failure was the sbec overheating and cutting out, then the throttle would have remained closed. The prop would now freewheel and would speed up as the airspeed increased in the spiral dive. The fact that everything worked fine later points to the sbec as it would work as normal once it had cooled down. Workable theory?
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