Paul Adams

Finger and thumbs, I was told it was the best way tio learn inverted flying as you can just lift your finger away from the elevator stick and apply a bit of down elevator with the thumb. Then if the ground came up to meet the model, it prevented you from pulling back on the stick and planting the model.

Most of the time I fly on less than 1/2 throttle. At full throttle it will climb vertical without loosing speed. I have no experience in glider towing, so can not state if it would have sufficient power. The CRRC 26 engine is specified at 2.5 hp, which is quite a lot less than the DLE 30cc, so if its brute force you need the DLE could be the best bet. If I was starting again, I would have no hesitation in choosing the same engine. The only problem I have is slowing the model down enough to loose height for landings, as even on tick over with a 16 x 8 prop, there is still sufficient pulling power from the engine to maintain height. I did try a 18 x 6 prop but found it unloaded in many of the aerobatic manoeuvres, so have gone back to the 17 x 8 and use the ailerons as flaps for landings. Regards Paul A PS Sorry Chris about not linking correctly.

The one fitted to mine is:- This one I had to do a very slight bend in the header pipe using a plumbing 22 mm pipe bender to get a good fit. (The standard exhaust is a bit noisy). Regards Paul Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 09/04/2012 21:19:26

As you don't need to add strength (its been flying ok with the retracts in) then I would be tempted to fill using that expanding foam you get in cans. you wont need much, just enough so that it finishes proud of the surface of the wing. Let it harden over night and then cut / sand it flat with the surrounding surface. Once level apply some lightweight filler to get a smooth finish and cover with film to match the rest of the model.

The easiest way to buddy box on Spectrum is the P-link and the Slave P-Link. The transmitter which is bound to the model, you need to select as p-Link and the other transmitter (trainer) select Slave P-Link. All you need to do is switch the master transmitter on and link the two transmitters together using the buddy lead. What should happen is that the slave unit takes all the trims from the master transmitter which allows the master (instructor) to trim the model and hand over control to the slave (trainer) without the need to move the trims on the slave transmitter. Also all directions, rates, exponential are also transferred. Always check control directions before flying on both the master transmitter and then the slave transmitter with the trainer switch pressed.

I think its a ploy by the government to take our eyes of the price of fuel, Get it over the £1.50 price barrier before we realise it. Then when the price falls again, they can put the extra 3p on a litre and no one will bat an eyelid.

Have just checked my engine mount and I have not added any down or side thrust, so I assume it must be built in or not much required. Its good to hear that they have corrected the problems. Mine had a slight mishap on landing a couple of weeks ago. We have trees at one end of our strip and as such have to do a dog leg approach. I had been instructing all morning, and then had a chance to fly my own model. Unfortunately being used to landing the standard size model all morning (including a standard size Wot 4) I misjudged the distance on the dog led approach with the Wot 4 XL, so instead of being in front of the trees it was behind them. It made quite a bang as it went through the trees. What surprised me most though was the lack of damage. The wing and its hold down plate at the rear had come apart from the fuselage and a few of the joints on the fuselage had come apart, a wing tip was slightly damaged and it had a ding in the wing covering, but that was it, not the carrier bag job I originally thought it would be . Its defiantly a tough model and will be flying again very soon.

The CRRC engine weight in at 1150 grams plus ignition system and 4AA battery pack, so the FT160 is slightly lighter so it should not be a problem. Power will be about the same, so shouldd be a good match.

Add my name to the draw, and if I win will send you a review of it.

Another thing to consider is that some makes (Spektrum) state that you should not use Y leads, so you would be back to using another channel of the receiver and use a mix on the transmitter.   This does however have some advantages:-   1 You can set the center position for each servo independently   2 You can set the control throws of each channel so that they match exactly   3 You don't need to add extra hardware or strip down a perfectly good servo.   But I agree, that does give you one less channel for gyro, camera etc.    

Remember to rebind at the fail safe positions after you have set up the model control throws including throttle.     I have seen someone who was flying an electric model, landed, carried his model to the pits, switched off his transmitter at which time the fail safe came in and throttled up the motor to max at which point his model powered across the pits and finished up in a crumpled mess against the fence, still with the motor trying to turn the prop.   During the investigation that followed, he had bound the transmitter to the receiver with the throttle stick set to min (fail safe position) then found that it was in the incorrect sense, so had to reverse the throttle stick channel, but did not re-bind the receiver after he had made the change. This meant that the fail safe position was set at max throttle.   A lesson to us all.  

Remember that if you can not help fling close / across the sun, that you have a large sunblock in your hands (the transmitter). Its far safer loosing sight of the model as it flies through the sun and who's rays are blocked by the transmitter, rather than being blinded by the sun and unable to see your model for several seconds. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Before I can say what percentage, where is the divide between foamies and trad build?   I have put some of my fleet in order of amount of foam as follows:-   Trad end Full balsa / ply construction Balsa / ply with Depron Ribs Balsa / Ply with white foam wings covered in veneer or balsa Balsa / Ply fuselage with blue foam wings covered in brown paper Blue foam fuselage with balsa wings. Blue foam Fuselage and wings covered in brown paper EPO foam fuselage and wings Depron foam fuselage and wings Foamies end          

MG966R servos for everything (metal geared to take the petrol engine vibrations) except the throttle servo where a miniature servo was used. Also used a petrol kill switch from Just engines.   Paul @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thanks Mike. Did you do a build blog on her at all? (I did an Intranet search on Taboo and it brought up some very strange sites!!!!!)   Will try the method you describe to bend the spruce. Looking forward to building and flying her, she has some very graceful lines. I particularly like the way you have done the nose cowl with the air vents, very clever idea.   What servo's did you use, and where did you mount the elevator servo? I assume under the canopy, is this correct?   When I get some pictures I will send them on.   Regards Paul     Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:19:27

I opened the Feb addition of the mag tonight on the Taboo page, and its now on my build list. Looking at the plan however it has a curved 1.5mm thick spruce spar which tapers from 6mm down to 3 mm at the wing tip. I have tried to curve the spruce as required, but can not get it to curve without twisting. Any one any ideas on how to get it to curve? steam? heat? @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:18:52

I melt mine down into a circular mold (two bits of mdf which I clamped in a vice and drilled into along the joint line). Then with the same drill, I drill into the model (somewhere not structural), then a bit of epoxy, glue them in flush with the surface. A bit of trim then goes over the hole to hide the end.      

Having learnt to fly from a slope, I love windy weather, however from a flat field with obstructions which results in turbulence, its a totally different matter. The powered flying site I use has a wood to the left, but open fields to the right. If the wind is blowing from the right, its great fun. If however its blowing from the left (over the trees), the air is very turbulent and flying is not enjoyable.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

New session starting if anyone is interested   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); I assume you are talking about two servos which are used for flaps only and you are feeding them via a Y lead. If you are then the only way you can get the movement of one to be opposite to the other is :- a) to install the servos such that they operate in the same direction, b) put a reversing circuit in one of the flap servo leads, c) Use servos from different manufacturers (they don't all operate in the same direction)   What would be a better idea would be to supply both servos from different channels on the receiver and use transmitter mixing. This has several advantages as you can set the center position, travel etc of each servo separately, also Spectrum say that you should not use Y leads.

These engines will run backwards with the cylinder housing mounted 180 degrees reversed. No other changes required. In fact they are quite sort after because of this reason. @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Another change I made during the week which I had forgotten about was that I changed the fuel tank as it was leaking. Originally it was a 12oz tank and at the end of a flight it still was 1/2 full, so I reduced the size to 8 oz. Therefore for the same length flight (timer set to 10 min) I would be landing with 4 oz less fuel in the tank which would not only decrease the model weight but also would move the C of G further back from last weeks flying position.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I have solved it.   Basically light winds today so was able to re-trim the model. Engine down thrust increased by 1 washer behind the top engine mounts, C of G moved back in stages until just needed a touch of down to fly inverted (I think I taped 10 pennies and a washer to the tail plane). The model now flies a lot better. What I was not expecting however was the transformation it made to the landings. It now slows down much easier and can be brought in quite slowly for perfect two or three point landings. No more bounce and improved flying, Brilliant.   In answer to fly boy 3 - Engine fitted OS 91 Four stroke, 13 x 8 prop - Gives brilliant power to weight ratio with a nice four stroke engine sound. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thanks David - But it keeps coming up with "there was a problem connecting to the session - please try another session". May try again later to see if it works then.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Whats the password?   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);