Jump to content

Ben Mullins

Members
  • Posts

    852
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by Ben Mullins

  1. Reminds me of the Galaxy range of kits.   An opposing magazine recently finished a review of their Hurricane. Seems there was alot left to be desired.
  2. Lol!   Likes spending money then . . . . . Should've seen that with the price tag of those retracts .
  3. Twelve foot!  Full of passengers as well! Thats quite something. Could've gone very wrong though!   Anyway, Back on thread, Im loving this model, bit big and pricey to on the electronic front though. I know that an A380 has a steep climb out angle, but not Vertical! Surely You could get away with 2 fans and one 4S Lipo giving 130w/lb?
  4. Yes, the E-Pioneer can be flown very slowly. I sometimes find myself landing it at slow than walking pase if there is a head wind. You can also bring the nose up very high without a fear of stalling. Great model for practicing landings.
  5. Wind and Drizzle here in sunny Hampshire. It looks as if someone has white washed the sky. Ill be finishing off that Aero Subaru today, got all the stuff through the post . As for tomorrow, im off to see Oasis at Wembly . Support bands Kasabian and The Enemy. Could turn out to be an excellent day . Edited By Ben Mullins on 11/07/2009 12:03:48
  6. My budget for a model and its electronics (excluding RX/TX) is about £0 - £70   Thats the reason why I love Giantcod and GWS so much
  7. Our club site is surrounded by fields of barley, which im sure you know can get quite high. If a model is lost we send a camera plane up, normally a Twinstar or Easystar. Take photos of where you think the model crashed and see if its there. What would be even better is if you put markers in the field, say different coloured flags so that pictures relate to the field.   Hope you find them soon
  8. Seems I've missed the boat, but I've inherited my soldering iron!   Yes thats right, im using dads 25W Soldering for 30 years ago, does everything i need it to. He created Magic smoke from a Machine battery with this .
  9. How about the £35 quid one further down the page? Anyone suggest one even cheaper than that?   Ben tight wad Mullins
  10. looks like ill have to try those Ebay Lipos. Not worth it on smaller batteries though, postage is quite high. Wooden prop is more likely to break
  11. Matter of opinion isn't it Phil. Either way it'll cost you around £15. I suppose standards could easily be moved into your second model as well.   I have to say, 9gram servos are a little slow, and don't give much movement. Anyway, It looks like a nice model, wish it was around when I started!
  12. You could make it alot cheaper than that!   If you shop around you could easily drop the price of motor and esc to about £30(cough giant cod cough). I wouldn't trust those lipos from Ebay, as many on here will tell you. You'd end up buying decent ones anyway. However, the money saved on power train could go towards lipos. RX battery, would hope to get more out of it than that! Save yourself a tenner and buy a £5 JP one from your LHS. As for servo's. you'd get away with 9 gram jobbies! My E-Pioneer (61") uses 9gram servos very well on a power setup more power full than the one you state. Don't forget, you're not doing 3D manouvers, its a trainer. If you really wanted standard servos BRC do nice ones, 4 for £15. £6 for a prop! £1 for one from the internet.   By my calculations I've just saved you £28. If you wish David, Ill give you the links for the stuff, or you could cast your eye over the E-Pioneer thread and look at what people have set their models up on.    Ben        
  13. Forget Beaches in Bude, go for the cliffs! They are particually spectacular round Bude. Just look at the ones on FD's video. I don't know about permission to fly there but it seems like a good idea, especially seeing as you've got yourself a glider. If I were you id take the glider and formosa and see what happens. As long as your away from the 'campers'  should think you'll be fine.
  14. I find CIF kitchen cleaner helps . Other than that I have no Idea!
  15. Not quite next time round. I've ordered the electronics off Giant Cod, so will be finishing off this model in the near future. 
  16. I would suggest not going on the Seagull Site, my firefox has labeled it as a 'attack site' Basically meaning it gives you viruses!   That harvard looks nice though :D
  17. Well acctually Pete, this publicity is bad. All of these crazy ideas and bad reviews would make me NOT want to fly with them. However, I am told that their Engineers get paid alot, so hopefully the planes are safe! 
  18. As you can see, It really is a matter of opinion. cough*taildragger*cough.   I learnt to fly on both tail dragger and trike, and TBQH it makes no differance either way. Tail dragger can nose over, but only really happens in long grass. The nose leg on a trike will keep on bending after the first couple of rough landings. Flying and landing wise its just the same.A tail dragger will teach you how to land and take off properly whereas trikes will teach you how to taxi (is that really needed?!).   In your model flying career you will most deffinatley come across both and you can form your own opinion.    Ben taildragger Mullins Edited By Ben Mullins on 06/07/2009 21:41:49
  19. erm . . .   the GWS Range
  20. Need I say more really! Another one of Ryanair's crazy schemes!   Have a look at this article. If they do charge you nothing to fly like that then maybe, id still go with flybe or easyjet though!
  21. I flew my E-Pioneer Yesterday in the Very strong wind. It handled the wind exceptionally well and landed from slower than walking pace right infront of me! Ill say that was my skill . I have to say, this is the easyiest model to land, almost equalling my Easystar!
  22. Its got flaps if im not mistaken phil. Your pretty mch guaranteed to crash your second model, do you really wanna see a £200 quid model go in because of a silly mistake? I think not. Go for one of the black horse range, they seem really good VFM.   Barry, Turn up the rates on your wot trainer, im sure you'll find it'll act just as well as a black horse model, especially seeing as you've got a .53 in it! I really wouldn't think that you need a second model. Have a look at this review, he's using it as his weekend hack!  
  23. Don't know why I've never tried slope soaring, Butser Hill is only 15 miles away .   I think this list does have the controlling clubs details on Andy!
  24. Right, A Quick Update:   Ill leave photos for when I have all the electronics. The build was very quick indeed. So quick that If I hadn't needed to wait for the Epoxy to dry it would have been complete with in 2 Hours. So it can be said that this model really is a 'True ARTF'. Having said that, it wasn't just a slot into place jobbie. The model isn't very accurate so the builder has to make allowances. By that I mean be prepared to get the knife out! I've completely disregarded the instructions, as all the things that needed doing seemed pretty obvious.    Undercarridge first. The U/C is all pre assembled with what seems to be good foamy wheels. The wheels are held in place with snake inner tubes stuck on with what I assume is CA. Covering has to be cut away from the wing to show the U/C blocks, but that is the norm. The U/C blocks are made from good quality hardwood which seem to be stuck in and supported well in the wing. Unfortuantly, the hole for the end of the U/C leg is too small, which has to be drilled out. Now, BE CAREFUL, I rather stupidly managed to drill through the block and through the sheeting on the top surface of the wing, DOH! Anyway, the leg goes in and is secured by Nyton straps and self tappers. The nose U/C on the Subaru is designed to be steerable. However I didn't want the extra load on the puny 9g servo's I was going to install. So I attached the nose leg on (incidentally the pre drilled holes were well out of line!) and Epoxyed the nose leg still! I may well come to regret that decision!    Vertical and Horizontal stabilisers. No need to CA your hinges, its allready done for you! Although I would advise you check the hinge with a good firm tug. Installation is as you would expect. Having to cut away your covering carefully with out piercing the wood, as stated in the 'Ruggedise your RTF' article in the latest issue. I had to keep the knife out as my stabilisers were too thick for the precut holes in the fuselage. Lining up the stabilisers so that they are at 90 degrees to the fuselage and also the same distance from each tip is bog standard and took no time at all. Having checked that all was good and square I proceded to Epoxy them in place and went to have lunch while waiting for the 30min stuff to cure.    Control linkages. These are pre installed into the fuselage. The Clevises which are of the metal/plastic variety commented on earlier are kept shut with screw, very strange. Just to be safe I will use a bit of fuel tube on them. The clevises are screwed directly into the snake inner tubes. I decided to give them a tug test and suprise suprise, they came straight off. A bit of thin cyano fixed that on all the linkages. The control horns are laser cut ply wood which are epoxied in place. I know Simon said that they were bad but I didn't have anything to replace them with . I then poured CA all over them to stiffen them up a bit. We'll have to see how they last.   I also installed a rather neat Motor mount, but that really does deserve some piccies, so that can wait till next time.   Photos next time round, Ben.
×
×
  • Create New...