Lee Burke

Looking forward to it.

I understand that soft start is suitable for motors with gearboxes as it is easier on the gears.  While the higher frequency seems to equate with higher power but less efficiency.  Or is it the other way round    Hopefully someone else will be able to give you the facts.

I use Bit Defender 2008 and it seems to work fine with the upgrade (patch) but I did turn it off while installing SP3 as it requests confirmation of every registry change.  SP3 seems on the face of it to be transparent.

Yeah, Lee, of course as you well know, the council workers are going to have authority on their side, while the likes of you and I would not have - just thought it a good idea to make that difference clear to anyone who might get the wrong impression.  

The FFAM, the French Aeromodeling Federation, authorised the use of 35,000MHz and 35,010MHz  from the 2 May this year, and 2,4GHz will be permitted on full power as from 2012 - at present there are limitations imposed.  Pressure was put on the lawmakers in Brussels to this end by both the FFAM and the BMFA.  Efforts will also be made to clarify the somewhat confused legislation in this area.  Whilst  the idea that "French do what they" like may be true in a certain sense, I am not sure it would be wise to imagine that liberties can be taken with their rules.  The Gendarmes make random spot checks and they are not to be taken lightly - cases of abuse will of course punish the club involved and make the offender most unwelcome

Great Scott!, Allan. Not the Teddy Boys, No!    Send them to Mr Gates, he masterminded the World's torment with this "fix it as it goes along" method of marketing.

Just a Head's Up for Windows XP users that Service Pack 3 is ready for download from Windows Update Link Its a hefty download, nearly 70 Mb and takes a good while to install so be prepared.  Given the recent disclosures about security weaknesses (so what else is new) in the OS it looks like a good idea to apply this patch ASAP.

One element of learning on one's own which I believe has not been touched yet in this thread is the difficulty of correctly setting up a model without any experience.  The collective years of experience and mass of knowledge that can be bought to bear at a club is one of the great benefits of joining one.  A beginner above all has need of a model that is correctly trimmed - not simply CofG but all the other parameters - he starts with a huge, and sometimes insurmountable handicap if the aircraft itself is a pig to handle and he doesn't know why.

Well, I managed to find the answer to my my question by downloading the manual to the RC-Power 601 BC here Manual This manual is different to the one which came with the charger and equally badly translated, but it is clear on the fact that there is no need to connect the Lipo discharge leads to the charger as well as the balance leads when balance charging.  Beware that although very similar in appearance to the Bantem it is apparently not exactly the same, as Bantem in their manual recommend connection of both sets of leads.

Good idea to colour code the battery terminals like that.  I might do that as well, thanks Mike.  Every assistance in preventing oneself from penetrating the fool-proof protections is good

Can't help you for Spain, but if you fancy France there is an all-weather flight school near Grenoble in the Alpe d'Huez.  Alpe d'Huez 

I just bought the RC-Power 601 Bc charger.  Do you have to connect the balance lead as well as the output leads of the Lipo to the charger?

Mine, Thanks.

That's it, Rob.  Sorry about the link.

Looks like it's mine

This might not be the right Folder for this but I 'll put it here and hope for the best. I just found a site that will probably interest a good many off you, if you're not already aware of it..  It offers a free performance calculator in which you can set up your models and juggle with motors, props and batteries and so on, to discover what the estimated result would be.  Have a look RC Advisor

RIP the manual

LOL., Okay, so at least you know the culprit is a baritone ass

That's incredible, Eric!  Perhaps kids playing with their Dad's radio?  Or is it too complex for kids to just switch on and transmit?

Gary, I really don't think you need worry.  As I said, mine was not linked at the factory, but once linked there is no problem.  I would try doing this before carting the thing back to the shop. Eric, I am dashed if I can find any written reference to the location of the ID switch in the manual.  That doesn't mean it isn't there, of course    True, on page 8 there is a photo of the receiver and on CLOSE examination you an see the ID SET printed on the body of the Rx between the antennas but you sort of have to know its there to find it.   In my manual (02/2007 edition)  the Link Procedure is explained on page 9.  In itself the text is very clear and the procedure well explained but the fact that the ID button is on the Rx, although obvious on reflection, is not self evident to a number first time users - it wasn't to me.  Still, so many things are not self evident to me

Well, the instructions for the link procedure are there, its just that they don't mention the location of the ID switch.  They also state that "For a T/R set, the link is already done at the factory."  I assume that by "T/R set "they mean a Tx and a Rx bought in the same box - well they were not linked in factory on mine.   The manual could certainly be a bit clearer on these things.

I had the same trouble, Gary.  Looked all over the Tx and reread the manual eight times, LOL.  The ID switch is a tiny button between the antenna on the Rx.

Yes, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks Eric.  Now, is the soldering iron still hot? 

After a slack Deans plug  last week caused whats left my hair to turn greyer than it already is I decided to get rid of all the Deans connectors on my equipment -such as it is - and replace them with PK banana type connectors,  Another reason is that  I can never get the Deans things undone.  Now, I put female plugs on both wires of the accus thinking this would be the safest way, but I just saw a watt meter with a female plug on the red wire and male plug on the black.  Hmm, is that the best way to do it?