Jump to content

BB

Members
  • Posts

    1,205
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by BB

  1. Posted by David Ashby - RCME Admin on 18/01/2012 08:03:36:   I'd say it's sensible to be close to your 'B' certificate in terms of flying ability. Progressing from a low-wing trainer and starting on low rates is fine but you do need to be able to fly your models all the way in for landing - these aeroplanes aren't 'cut and glide' machines and they'll often punish the pilot who tries.     Totally agree with David. You do need to 'Fly' them in. Cut & glide (cool term), especially before/during that last leg final turn will see you carrying a bin bag to pick up the remnants of a stall you didn't see happen, its that quick!   Being nearer the 'B' cert is also good advice. No 'B', how about practising the 'clubman schedule'. Getting that down alone will give your confidence a boost.   Great Britain rc Areobatic Association   BB
  2. Ditto Alan 4. The Yak, Cap, Sukhoi & Extra are very similar frames. Regardles of their size, they fly the same way. Start on low rates with expo if you know how to use it 30 - 50 %. Keep your stick movements smooth. These frames respond fairly immediately.   Height IS safety when flying these birds for the first time. Use it, and the tools in your TX, rates/expo/epa settings etc, and you'll get the best out of them. Don't be afraid to go back on a buddy lead if necessary with a pilot who you know flys this type of kit.
  3. Its not uncommon for some of us night workers to log in, in the early hours, to find & report such occurances. Which are then swiftly checked and where necessary removed. But, that said, well spotted...   BBEdited By BB on 13/01/2012 04:32:40
  4. " Kung Fu Chicken" , certainly one of, if not the best tag on the forum Welcome & don't forget some BMFA insurance.   BB
  5. Posted by steve watkin on 04/01/2012 19:23:06: So I'm going to need a 60A speed controller? Will this be OK-- http://www.giantcod.co.uk/black-mantis-60amp-speedcontroller-p-402907.html or do you have any better suggestions?     No you wont What you need is a 61 2St, glow fuel, a starter n' stuff   BB ----- Keep it oily n'messy dept   Edited By BB on 04/01/2012 19:30:48
  6. Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 22:32:10: Posted by BB on 01/01/2012 22:21:18: Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 21:59:22: Like the idea of home made stuff a lot. Hopefully not hijacking the thread but when it comes to cuttnig excess covering; what have the good readership invesnted for the job? I have been using crafty cutters from SLEC but find them not the easiest of tools to use. Your thoughts please.   I've used a scapel with the handle as a depth gauge, alternative is a ' plane' blade half of which is wrapped in cheap insulation tape to a depth to suit, works fine when cutting along a fuz or wing span. Just change the blade regulary. BB Cheers, my edges normally look as if they have been cut with a chain saw..   Also worth remembering to 'tack' 4-8 " apart, the edges first. And regard to wings, tack across the cord, not the length as you'll introduce an angle ya just can't iron out ! And a heat gun will make 'that' mistake worse!   I change the blade often ! Sometimes after every lengthy continuous cut Spice Cat. Its about as close to a garantee your gonna get for a clean cut. Don't care what anyone says about blade wear. Use a blade once on film. Its never as sharp as when used on that first cut.   And when using a heat gun, use the coolest setting first, and from a distance.   BB BB    
  7. Posted by Spice Cat on 01/01/2012 21:59:22: Like the idea of home made stuff a lot. Hopefully not hijacking the thread but when it comes to cuttnig excess covering; what have the good readership invesnted for the job? I have been using crafty cutters from SLEC but find them not the easiest of tools to use. Your thoughts please.   I've used a scapel with the handle as a depth gauge, alternative is a ' plane' blade half of which is wrapped in cheap insulation tape to a depth to suit, works fine when cutting along a fuz or wing span. Just change the blade regulary. BB
  8. Crikey KC,  I wish!  Some really excellent stuff there.   My 'very' small contribution   I make my own 'permagrit' tools. Course sandpaper glued to straight & curved edges covered in various coats of epoxy. I apply a coat of epoxy and wipe off the excess. Applying further coats to get to a fine finish.   I use lolly sticks,dowls (various sizes of scrap), any shape that I think will be handy. Used a cut in half baco foil carboard inner tube cut along its length for doing leading edges etc.  Even used a (cut along its length) carpet roll inner carboard tube to get a shallow curve, just cut it along its length to suit.  No ! not the 'whole' tube, just a 1' length.   Pound shops often sell packs of 50 A4 sized sheets of Sandpaper as well as the Epoxy. I soak the course paper in boiled water for about 10 seconds, bend around a curved (convex/concave) edge then dry with a heat-gun quickly ( stops the paper & grit falling off/disintergrating).   Very handy: And no where near as costly.   BB  P.S.  A mate I know who owns a garage/paint shop has done the same but uses paint instead of Epoxy, a few coats - job done.  Not sure if it lasts as long as Epoxy.  But he has easy access to more paint ! Edited By BB on 01/01/2012 22:07:17
  9. BB

    Copyright?

    Theres loadsa 'copyright free' music on the web if you search that phrase. But, if you are talking about that favorite track on your favorite CD, you'll be infringinging copyright rules by using it.   I tend to download music from YouTube that carries an itunes listing, seen just below the main screen on the right. This means its for listing & playing in your region. It'l mean you will end up with a brief advert on your vid. They will send you a notice of a 'possible' copyright issue. It will either be allowed, with an advert. Or, disallowed and removed. If, so, just add another.   Youtube also gives you a choice of tunes you can use from their copyright free list. Pick the genre and length depending on your own preference and video length.   E.G; One of mine.     BBEdited By BB on 29/12/2011 20:53:15
  10. BB

    Season's Greetings

    Posted by graham kindberg1 on 25/12/2011 06:18:25: Merry Christmas every one, and yes Santa was good to me all the best from Australia Graham   Please, please don't 'leccy it !   Just an opinion forumnites.    Happy Crimbo from us Lime eating pommies. Great looking piece of kit.   BB Edited By BB on 26/12/2011 21:20:38
  11. 00:14hrs no sign of a build - Slacker ! I'll say happy crimbo anyway, but, I'm not so sure you deserve it yet ?     BB
  12. Posted by David Ashby - RCME Admin on 24/12/2011 21:00:09: Cheers BB, hope you're not working too much over the break? Looks like it'll be flyable   Looking forward to a fly tomorrow p.m. David. All the Very Best. BB
  13. And heres an apology for 2012, ( in early ) hic 'cause it'll 'appen again !   Amazing forum, brilliant ppl. effirvesant backgroom geezer/etts.   Mods fleel flee to decrepe, delfleet, decleete, desleete and thingymee as neclarrrilee   Bb...... falling down miskivelyy
  14. X 3 you mean. I'l admit I 'aven't been the best of forumnites at times - I've looked and found the boundries a couple of times.   But; All the Very best to Tim, David, BEB & all those folks behind the scenes for ALL their much appreciated hard work throughout the year.   BB  
  15. Posted by Steve W-O on 20/12/2011 17:18:38: Forgot to add, I follow proper engineers procedure, measure with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, and cut it with.................well the chain saw and angle grinder of course, have to copy the engineers! What you don't use a bread knife - coward ! BB
  16. Don't forget, if you don't like the crush ! Slightly 'over cut', out side the line. Then sand down to the line.   BB
  17. Posted by GrahamC on 14/12/2011 16:30:50: Hope you get it sorted soon. Just to mention though, I think you might find the Seagull Decathalon is going to be a bit borderline with that engine. (if thats what you are buyinng it for.) I have an Irvine 53 in mine and she still takes a good long run to get off our grass strip. It's a big old plane for the money, and the fuselage is massive compared with your standard trainer that might suit a 46. A hunt around the net will show quite a few 70 4strokes being used too. The .46 isn't for this plane. Which makes things doubly unfortunate ! BB
  18. My opinion is that if you show stock in. then you deliver on that honour as advertised. Now, in the ordering process they did ask for a call number. I chose to forego this. I did however give an e-mail address ! They chose to ignore this, until I called them.   I excepted the £8.99p delivery charge based on their 'next day' delivery charge via Fed-Ex.   Turned out to be a Joke. Still waitiong !   BBEdited By BB on 14/12/2011 14:10:01
  19. I ordered a Seagul Decathlon from Elite Models on Thursday 8th.   Website showed the item as 'in stock'. I also ordered an SC .46.   Given that both items were showed as 'in-stock' on their web-page, (other items as not in stock). And given that they showed a 'Fed-Ex' delivery of 48hrs at £8.99p I expected delivery at the latest by Saturday.   Oh no. I called Monday the 12/12/11 and was told they were expecting to pick the item up from their suppliers on Tuesday!   So, thinking that I had paid £8.99p for 'premium' postage. I expected the goods to arrive today ! Not so !   Though according to their website I should have got the goods last Friday/Saturday.   Bad Service. Will Never Use Again !   It is now Wednesday 14th 2011. They have not contacted me once!   And the shop is closed ! No answer, machine service.   This All Tantomounts to service without provision.   My advice - Do Not go online if you can't provide the custom or communication !   BB  Edited By BB on 14/12/2011 13:52:30
  20. Enjoying this thread. I have been given a Zagi (type) kit. No power train recomendations included, apprx 48" span. So am viewing with interest.   A group of us at www.flambirdsmfa.com are hoping to hold a combat meet soon.   BB
  21. Season's Greetings & Best Wishes for 2012 to All   (for the men) & a (for the ladies) Ala Alf Murray BB
  22. BB

  23. Posted by Ross Clarkson on 09/12/2011 01:56:29: Hi all,   Due to personal circumstances, this will be on the classified's tomorrow. Never flown, immaculate and all electrics and engine included. Fully completed and ready to go. Sad times!!   Sorry to hear that Ross. Mines still in the box. Think I'l wait till it has 'classic' status before I put it together.   Hope things improve for you soon.   BB
  24. Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 05/12/2011 14:29:43: The down going aileron creates lift - more lift equals more drag. So if ailerons move equally then the wing on the down-going aileron side (the outside wing in a turn) will experience more drag which will tend to yaw the model so its nose points out of the turn. This is called "adverse yaw".   Adverse yaw doesn't just look ugly it brings other problems; it promotes side slip which increases overall drag. Also if the model has dihedral the effect of the side slip will be to try to roll the model out of the turn. All in all this is not desirable.   Two methods for dealing with it;   1. Live with it but must use some rudder in the direction of the turn to counteract it, effectively countering the adverse yaw with oppisite rudder induced yaw. Makes for nice flying problems if you like that sort of thing (I do) where you have to judge just the right amount of rudder to use - you can mix the rudder in with ailerons of course but I feel I'm cheating if I do that. (Just me - I'm not critising anyone else - if you like mixing rudder that's fine).   2. Alternatively, by letting the down going aileron have less travel you balance the drag between the two wings better. Up-going ailerons make some extra drag as well - but not nearly as much as down-going ones - becuase of the lift effect of a down-going aileron.   Hope that helps.   BEB Used 60/40 & 70/30 & 65/35 on my Wot 4. 60/40 worked best. BB
×
×
  • Create New...