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Don't just stand there, get one up!


Danny Fenton
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You need to get that Beau finished matey
 
Thanks for the link to Emax unfortunately gives a similar and vague measurement for the can size. I don't want to order on a guess.....
 
I am mounting the cells as far forward as I can and we will take it from there.
 
Oh..... and the Varioprop is on the way

Cheers
Danny
 
 
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Double checked that link you gave Matt and it describes the can length as 81mm its too long unfortunately. But thank for finding it.
The 60-64 might work, its about 4mm longer but I could build the back of the spinner to fill that gap. As usual Hobby King have no stock in fact I couldn't find a single 40 + sized motor in stock
 
If anybody has a 60-64 that don't want let me know......

Well I ran the 5065 380kv motor up tonight on 7S 5000 lipos, good ones this time 50c jobbies and I only got to third stick travel and hit 1990 watts, I bailed out at that. The propwash nearly blew my Myford over!!

Anyway I am amazed that a good 7S lipo is so much more powerful than 8S of my beloved A123. The problem is the A123 start at about the same voltage but drop dramatically, whereas the Lipos do not. So much so that I am going to have to swap the 380kv for a 270 if I stay with this motor, good job I have a selection......


Cheers
Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 22/08/2011 23:16:37

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I came to the same sort of conclusion on the A123s a while back too, due mainly to the greatly improved holding power of the latest generation high C rate lipos.I really like the VFM turnigy nano tech packs - the unusual shape fit a lot of models better too.
With fast charge capability, lower weight, cheaper prices, more flexible pack sizes, higher capacity cells, and greater availability on the lipo, about the only thing left for the A123 cell is its longevity, and tolerance to abuse. Plus of course, the facility to be bale to leave in situ for charging.
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Danny,
 
Have been away and havent quite read all the posts... You mentioned a "spinner"?
 
I have a nice backplate and 2 uncut spinners made by Andreas Dehn if you want to give them a go, they bolt onto that prop adaptor I gave you perfectly... The backplate is a tad heavier than your standard commercial spinner as I needed the weight up front on my TF Spit, I think they around 90mm Dia so if the right size I will double check and send them along...
 

Edited By Dusty on 23/08/2011 20:20:41

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Hi Dusty, sounds great. Is the shape correct for the MkI? I am intending using your adaptor if I keep the 5065.
I have found a motor in my motor box Might fit, if a bit longer (4mm)
 
I think more motor testing is needed before I go much further.
 
Thanks Dusty, I will get back to you as I am working away from home at the moment.
 
Cheers
Danny

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Hi Danny,
 
No prob, I have just got back home from the Uk, so if its cool I wil get to the cellar in the morning and take some pics for you and you can determine the shape of the spinner. For flying purpose is fine, the shape is a little blunt on the snount as the bolt to the prop adaptor goes through the centre. The spinners are made of glass fibre... If anything you might have to have a static prop/spinner and a flying one?? But your OSS (Obsessive Scale Syndrome) might have a part to play lol... Nevertheless maybe you could use a excisting cone and make a mould for the backplate? Offers there so...
 
Intersested in your results from the vario prop guys, I have seen them at the Dortmund Intermodellbau....
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Thanks Dusty, OSS.... me? you must have me mistaken for somebody else.... I have OCD (Obsesive Compulsive Detailing disorder)

I might be able to use the backplate with one of my own spinners if the shape is off

Very kind of you to go to the trouble, I can do you some stencils in exchange if you like?

Cheers
Danny
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 23/08/2011 20:38:03:
Hi Dusty, sounds great. Is the shape correct for the MkI? I am intending using your adaptor if I keep the 5065.
I have found a motor in my motor box Might fit, if a bit longer (4mm)
 
I think more motor testing is needed before I go much further.
 
Thanks Dusty, I will get back to you as I am working away from home at the moment.
 
Cheers
Danny

 
Hmm, guilt get to you in the end then did it Danny?
Just couldnt bring yourself to glue in all that lead that Chris nicked off the roof ??
 

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Hi Craig, I don't want to get on the soap box about why electric flight is more flexible as it just starts the arguments, but there is no denying it is easier to get the c of g with electric. The motor mass is concentrated further forward than an IC or petrol engine for a start, then you have big heavy cells that you can move around more easily than a tank, which needs to sit at a certain level to feed fuel reliably. Add to that the way you can alter motors and cells to change the weight of the components it is far friendlier. You do also have the benefit of a scale diameter prop if that floats your boat (it does mine )
I appreciate you don't get the sound of a petrol or glow with electric, and to some that is very important, to me the reliability, cleanliness, and ease of use make up for the sound.... there are always sound modules of course

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Interesting and enjoyable bit of time spent this evening messing with motors and C of G Thanks Chris for your company and helping brainstorm the problems.
 
The bottom line is the 380kv motor on 5S only produces 904 watts, on 7s the current is through the roof.
 
So we tried the 270kv version of the 5065. This is promising. Using a 20 x 10 on 7S we got 1150 watts with 46A current. I cannot give the rpm but working back from known data around 5500 would be about right.
 
The VarioProp on order is a 20" x ?? (adjustable up to 15" pitch) three blader, so that will equate to a 21" two blader. I am hoping this will push the wattage up closer to 1500. I have a 350kv version so that may also be worth a try.
 
Then Chris and I moved on to the c of g. We suspended the Spit in the vanessa rig. Hanging an adjustable spanner from the prop nut simulated the weight of the VarioProp. We then needed an additional 600g to get the c of g to the most forward mark of Tony's range. So it does indeed look as though I am going to have to add some lead
 
It is a short nosed MkI Spitfire, and the knowledge will all be valuable for the next model where I will try even harder to keep weight off the tail.......
 
PS Chris's DH88 was right on the money as far as C of G so at least he was okay leaving me his spare lead

Tally Ho!
 
 
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Hi Tim, the prop is indeed expensive, and expensive nose overs are to be avoided
 
But it wil look the part for sure. And it is silly to not finish it properly......

I have a problem now, how do I attach 1lb of lead to the inside top of a balsa cowl. Never had to worry about this process before. I cannot see any way of attaching it mechanically, ie bolts. Will epoxy alone hold it to the balsa?
 
Cheers
Danny

 
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In the past I have made a mounting plate to go on the engine / motor and bolted the lead to that ?
 
Could you make a circular birch ply plate to go behind the motor and cast the lead in a doughnut shape to go around the motor and bolt it to the plate ??
 
A 1lb of lead coming loose in the cowl is going to ruin your entire day
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