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Don't just stand there, get one up!


Danny Fenton
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I have been plodding away at a BT Hurricane for nearly a year and I need a bit of a break. As Tony has just released the latest latest incarnation of his popular Spitfire I thought it would be great to put one together for electric power.
 
I had a look at 4Max's motor choice for this on Tony's site, and George has picked a pretty good motor in the 5065. The Turnigy version is a favorite of mine I have the 350kv version in the Fury, and am using the 320kv in my BT Hurricane. The spit should have a 24" prop at 1/6 so have ordered a 270kv to try. A session in the garage with the range of motors, props and cells sounds on the cards. I will give CB (Chris Bott) a nudge, he loves all the techie research stuff  and always has a good chuckle at my quest for the biggest props possible, often heard mumbling words such as torque, and unflyable LOL
 
I think I will have to shave a little weight of this airframe as I want a bit longer than my normal 6 minute flight time, will want to up the A123 cell count to 15 - 18. it may still end up at 15lbs but hopefully no heavier as that is my fields limit.
 
I will be using Fighteraces epoxy resin and glass, for those want to see how to use it, and Warbird colours again from Phil at Fighteraces.
 
The subject???? The early airframes were very similar, so we can go from a MkI to a MkV. I am torn between K5054 the prototype
 

and the clipped wing Vc
 

but I am still thinking about that.
 
So if anybody wants to join me, I will snap in a new number 23 and get started
 
Tally Ho
 
 
 
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Hey....I'll be watching with interest Danny. I'm just about to start a Top Flite Sea Fury so will be interested in how the glassing is done as I think I'll use that on the SF but have never tried it.
 
I do like the simple lines (and colour) of the prototype
 
I think you have to weave a line from the film BOB into every post though
 
 
 
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Hi David, 
 
Second Danny on the Fighter Aces resin.  Have never glassed before with a proper epoxy resin but have been useing the fighter aces stuff on my Halifax.
 
Can confirm it goes on brilliant.  Super stuff.  Give it a go you will be amazed with the results.  As long as you follow Phil Clarkes accompanying instructions/glassing guide (pdf download from his site) to the letter you will have absoloutely no problems.
 
Well worth a try for your Sea Fury
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Hi Guys thanks for joining in. I am really looking forward to seeing the Sea Fury go together David, one of my favorites thats for sure. Saying that anything from Sydney Camm is allright by me  this one, though by some other bloke.....R.J. something or other should be good though
 
The resin Phil sells is nice, it dries with no waxiness and is a joy to sand. There are some tricks to putting it on and you wouldn't believe how little you use. I am no expert by any means but got pretty good results fairly quickly. You will need some scales that read to the gram though. Plenty on EBay for around a tenner.
 
I am also going to do some raised panel edges using electrical tape and filler, plus vinyl chart tape and hi build primer to show panel lines for those that want to see how that is done. Again I am no expert but should be able to let everybody see enough so that you can have a go. This is a great subject to practice these skills on.
 
I have contacted Tony at Unitracts regarding the cost for the retracts and he has comeback with £110 for mechanicals and £215 for air driven (plus postage) I am going to go with mechanicals because I have a big meaty servo lying around, and because I have had no trouble with my Seagull Fury on mechanicals.
 
I have been studying the plan this evening and I think there are several areas for losing some weight. In fairness to Tony he did indeed say this during the You Tube interview. There is a great deal of thick wood used, which I may try and reduce. And also with careful cell position, and some weight saving on the tail I will try and remove that 1.5lb of nose weight.
A huge amount will depend on the quality of wood provided. If it is dense then the weight will shoot up.
 
The beauty of A123 is that you can more or less build them into the airframe, so no hatches and you can wedge them right at the very front, directly behind the motor. The electric motor also concentrates the mass much further forward than an IC so that also helps.
 
Anymore suggestions on a scheme shout away, CB has chirped in with AR501 which WAS in clipped wing guise in the 80's and was also weathered which I like. Though there is something rather significant by doing K5054
 
Really looking forward to this
 
"I see. So I tell the cabinet, that you're trusting in radar and praying to God, is that right?"
 
 
 
 
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Nice one Danny,
 
I will be joining you soon. My bench will be cleared today.
The retracts have been ordered from Unitracts (air) although they cant deliver until november.
I intend to do a MkV, maybe the Al Deere one from 1941.
I have all the wood etc so I am really looking forward to this one.
Cheers
Herri
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Hi Richard A123 don't object to the cold as badly as lipo. the other thing is that they stay in the warm inside the fus
I like the prototype, I always thought it was silver, but apparently a presentation model was built in 1936 using the same blue paint as the full size. That paint was used to match the replica in the photo. Anybody got any walkaround photos?
 
Hi Herri, would be good if we can compare notes. Should be a nice model to build, not too difficult but a good size. Builds like a big funfighter
 
Hi Steve, I must be odd, I really like the clipped wing variant. Not as beautiful as the std wing but kind of brutish in a Fury sort of way and different. Not as ugly as the extended wing tip variant.
 
Hey David not sure if you are winding me up? certainly would be different though
 
Hi Iain, good to have you watching. This is my first TN design so its never too late. Get on the blower and get some bits ordered, plenty of time to join in. Maybe we can all meet up at an event next year and get them up together.
 
And for young Mr Ashby.........
Shut up! Silence - in Polish!  
 
 

Edited By Danny Fenton on 27/09/2010 21:49:33

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Well, much as I love the profile of the Eliptical wing, there is something about the Clipped wing... Something... Tough and functional.
 
K5054 had three different paint jobs to my knowledge.  It maidened in an aluminium and primer finish and then was very soon after painted Duck Egg blue.  It then had the "A" camo scheme for public consumption.
 
You have me thinking now... I might have to build my 62" Mk IX as an LF V with clipped wings.
 
Cheers,
 
Hugh
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Hi Hugh thanks for the background on K5054, that explains a lot  I must confess I am not as well up on the Spitfire as I am on the Hurricane.
 
I am looking forward to seeing how your S6B comes out
 
Cheers
Danny
 
The *engine's* overheating, and so am *I*! Either we stand down, or *blow up*! Now *which* do you want?
 
 
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Hello Rabbit leader.........
Many years ago a friend of mine did PR Spit from the Mick Reeves kit, his was in pastel pink, the rivet detail etc showed up really well, but somehow it didn't look right to me. The PR blue is nice though.
 
At the moment I am drawn to a mud and grass clipped wing...... Sorry Steve..... But I can't find one. They are all grey and green.
 
 
 
 
 
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