Ton van Munsteren Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Hi Wolfie, Its all about motivation isn't it , the best things are created in the smallest spaces. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Looks really great Wolfie, what are you going to do as far as glazing are you going to make some molds and vacform? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hi Danny, I haven't really thought that far ahead TBH. Most moldings I have done in the past were the shrunk soda bottle types and a couple of pulls. Vacforming would be a first. It looks like the side glazing could be done from a flat sheet and that just leaves the front windshield. Next priority will be the front of the engine nacelles and depending on complexity, I may adopt the soda bottle approach for them too. However, it looks like I shall be mostly laying bricks for the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Right, the dye for the mortar hasn't arrived but the ESCs have so I have been wiring. All connected up now and tested. As the PA-39 was specifically designed for counter rotating engines, the port motor turns clockwise and the starboard motor is anticlockwise. Props are the Graupner nylon 8x6 that are available both L and R handed. ESCs are stuck to the wing spar which is just the right width. Will be using both BECs with a schotky diode pair as a combiner (just in case). Now all that's in place the nacelles can be completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Hi Wolfie, Thats very interesting using the Schottky diodes to stop crossfeed from the two supplies, which model diode do you use, whats its rating and how do you wire it into the circuit? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 I'll have to check the exact reference, it's MBR something rated at 20A.It's a diode pair in a TO220 package with common cathodes. Each BEC is connected to an anode and the output taken from the commoned cathodes. Just some leftover spares from repairing some switchmode PSUs a few years back after a lightning strike very close to the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hopefully this is this last of the planking now complete. Now the lower sheeting between the nacelles and fuse can be glued in place. Then the 10mm sheet for the LE and the centre sheeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Final job this weekend are the rib caps in 1,5mm crossgrain sheet. The rear spar has been pre-cut with the slots for the aileron hinges before the top strip is glued on. The pair of L/R 8x6 props arrived Saturday so they've been fitted with the spinners and measurements started for the front sections of the nacelles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 The weekend turned into 2 solid days of car maintenance, repairing coolant circuits and setting geometry. Little time for anything other than cutting the 5 pieces of 10mm sheet that will make up the front cowling. First rough cut based on a selection of photos for the shape.Fortunately I discovered someone selling a pair of real nacelle cowls on internet and they had kindly added a selection of high quality photos! So the first rough was just a little out... This is much nearer. Have to cut out the air intakes on each side and then cut some outlet on the underside of the nacelle to ensure the airflow around the motors.Might as well do these from balsa, don't see any real advantage in making a mould from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 It was too cold to spend a long time in the workshop this weekend. The nose is just 5 layers of 10mm sheet. The elevators are a laminate of 3 and 4 mm sheet that is hinged the same way as the rudder. The two sections will be joined behind the fuse by a short piece of 4mm spruce. And finally, the second nacelle cowling is started. All 5 layers of 10mm sheet have been glued up and the outline traced top and bottom but it appears that I was shivering too much and the pic is rather blurred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Looking really good there Wolfie. lovely bit of modelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 Thanks Danny. I really have to get some heating arranged in the workshop, its just an outbuilding. Quite large but an absolute pain in winter. Fingers were turning blue after 20 minutes of sanding. Did some measurements at the weekend and was quite surprised that it has come out exactly 1:8 scale. How's the Apache coming? Have you found a real one for measurements yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Hi Wolfie, lol thats a handy size. The Apache is on hold at the moment. Don't seem to be able to get back into the swing of modelling at the mo. In fact since Christmas....... starting to feel the urge though so there is still hope Doubt mine will turn out as nice as this one though. Looks really good. ARTF manufacturers (AlanC you listening) see light twins is a good unexplored market Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 After several hours of sanding I think we now have two identical nacelle cowls. I will do the fuse/wing transition as a mix of planking and 10mm sheet. The centre section will have a cut-out for a handhold for launching. This is doubled in 1mm ply. Subformers are plotted for the planked areas. Once completed this whole section will need to be glassed for protection. Looks like the autofocus on the camera is playing up again. Will have to try and get some clearer ones tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Looks great, nearly there Interesting that the nacelles follow the wing line, the Apache they are horizontal. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Posted by Danny Fenton on 31/01/2011 09:54:51: nearly there I wish! Not sure what you mean about following the wing line? Effectively the underside is flat with the rear of the wing and the firewall is at 0°. Its probably the minimal incidence that makes it look flat. Once the rest of the lower nacelle fillet is added it will be more visible. In any case, there's no rush as the lower field has just be ploughed over ready to be re-seeded with grass in early March. Thats where I normally fly from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Slightly better focus this time. These are the sub formers for the underside wing transition. Sides are 10mm sheet. This is planked with 3mm sheet. Didn't get very far as the temperature in the workshop was only 6° last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Planking complete and sanded down. This gives a good handhold which also serves as access for battery connection and cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Next up are the small fillets for the nacelle transitions around the LE underside. Basic outline in 1,5mm sheet and then 2 layers of 3mm sheet for the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 I was wondering whether it would be possible to create the windshield from flat plastic sheet. Well the answer is very probably! 1st rough template in thick card reveals that with some subtle trimming, the surface can be a flat sheet. Final trim and the top edge of the windshield can be plotted. Spent ages Sunday looking at it and trying to work out how to plot the horizontal surface onto such a sloping screen. Thick card was taped to the inside edge of the top of the side windows, run round the winshield and taped to top edge on the other side. Check it touches the windshield all the way round and draw the marker line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Looks fantastic Wolfie, its a shame for me that the windscreen worked from flat sheet, I was hoping for some pointers on making a plug for my Apache glazing I did manage to buy some blue foam the other week so that is probably the way to do it. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Thanks Danny. If it hadn't worked from flat sheet I think I would have fitted the card in place as above then glassed it on the outside until I had a rigid mould that could be filled with self expanding foam as the rough for the final mould. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 The first test with a sheet of tri-acetate and yes there is no problem with cutting the windshield from flat sheet. Only problem is that it is so transparent that you can't see it. I had to find an angle with some light reflection to make it visible.I think this would look better if I used some kind of tinted rhodoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 After a month of the car declaring a war of attrition on my wallet, I have finally managed to pick up the sandpaper again: The air intakes on the nacelles have been cut out and they have been glassed ready for painting.The ailerons have been cut out too and will start on them next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Adams Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 All I Can Say Is NICE,And What A Craftsmen You Are Wolfie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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