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Sipa 200 (June 2015 RCM&E)


Stephen Jones
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Hi ,
 
Some more work done on the Fuzz .
 
 
1st tack the two half's in place sand and fill any gaps .
As any problems with the finish or fit will be hard to correct later .
 
 
 
After splitting the two half's cut two legs of a pair of Tights
NOT fish net tights though .
 
Slide the legs over the fuselage half`s and tie a knot like so .

Now you can apply the Epoxy finishing resin .
 
And after the 1st coat should look like this .
, several more coats of resin and sanding will be needed in-order to get a nice smooth finish .
 
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I had a notification of your latest post come through (without photos) on my phone last night and i thought you were joking about the tights lol
 
I've never seen tights used before like this. is it purely for finishing or do they add strength too ??
 
that's what I love about this hobby. your always learning something new
 
keep the posts coming. hope you're not in trouble for using the wife's best tights
 
 
kev
 
 
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Hi again ,
 
Some more work done today ,
 
 
Add D1 to side of the Fuselage along the line we made earlier like so .
Then when both sides are dry add a 1/16th x 5mm strip of balsa along the top of D1 to form a seat for the wings to sit on .
 
 
Now we cut out the holes for the snakes and wing joiners to fit into .

Add the wing Brace to the wings using epoxy resin .

Now all we have to do is make sure we have a good true and square fit .
And when happy with the fit is good and true we can use epoxy resin to join the wings to the body like so .
When all is dry we can fit the tail plane and rudders .
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Hi again Kevin ,
 
Not done much today her indoors had me doing other stuff
 
Glassing the wings Humm not decided yet . options i have are ,
 
Glass wings , time consuming and no need for extra strength here .
 
Film cover as before which was also used to hinge the rudders and elevator , then paint
 
Tissue cover , then paint and find an alternative way to hinge rudders and elevator .
 
Not sure which .
 
Yes i love questions , shows someone is interested .
 
Yes there is dihedral on mine as in keeping with the full size .
 
And the inside of the model is where it starts to get interesting a this is where i had over heating problems so gave me much to think about . So here are some snippets .
 




Details later unless you can figure out what i am going to do .
 
Cheers ,

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Hi Kevin ,
 
Well there is plenty of room on the inside to get an Edf in .
In fact its almost like a tardice .
 
The hole at the back is 25mm in Diameter and the AuW of the model 1 1/2lbs .
 
So i don`t know if an edf will work maybe someone with a better understanding of these things could inform us of what size inlet and outlet we would need and what size Edf we would need.
 
 
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Hi ,
 
Done a little more today ,
 
Added 1mm carbon rod to control surfaces to give scale effect and also anti warp for rudder and elevator .
 
Also fitted motor , servo tray which i have moved lower so i can fit a parcel shelf which goes behind the seats as well as cut out the rear glazed area .


A view from the front so you can see the dihedral .
 
 

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  • 1 month later...
Hi,
 
Not done any more work on this yet as i was covering the wings with tissue and Poly C .
Unfortunately it has reacted and now covered in small bubbles so now needs sanding back ( DoH )

And with are winter weather not been able to go outside and sand it . And Her in doors is not happy about the dust .

So i have been doing some Depron / foam Models , well you got to keep busy haven't you and it doesn't make the same mess .


I have also been toying with the idea of covering it in solar film or Pro-film and painting over that which is cleaner to do , i have done a little practice on an aileron i have taken of the 1st Sipa 200 i made , also put some silver foil on to see if it would accept paint and mimic rivets .



I have painted them and they seem ok .

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hummm .
 
This hobby can certainly throw you some challenges from time to time ,
As i am not to sure where to go or how to go about making the Cockpit area more scale .
 
My 1st Cockpit / hatch was a simple but affective one .

But on my next one i would like to do a more scale job so i have opened up the port hole windows moved the servos down and back a bit and add the parcel shelf .
And now stuck as to how to go about the next part .
 
I am thinking i may have too mould some sort of floor pan .


The problem is that the flight battery needs to be right under those seats and will need to be cooled .
Or do i make two cockpits one for show and one for flying ? .


at the moment all the part you see here are temporary and just to give me an idea as to how to go about it .
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Hi ,
 
I agree with you Kevin , 1st time around i was happy with it looking similar to the plane it is meant to be .
As 1st time round i was not too sure if it would fly that well and worth the extra effort , but now 2nd time around i known it flys well , and would like to add a little more scale as i think it would help its appeal .
 
I often ponder over things for a while before coming to a final decision and on this one i may go half way .
 
Good Luck with the test flight BTW Kevin
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Hi, again fellow wood worms ,
 
I have done i little bit more today ,
 
After much thought on cooling the electronics i have decided to use the two Air intakes to channel cool air too two separate areas of the fuselage one to cool the motor and Esc and the other to cool the battery .

here you can see the lower bulkhead which will separate the rear from the battery .

The battery slides into a channel which will be held in place by a Velcro strap .

Air will be allowed to exit at the back under belly .
 
 
I have also made the cockpit .


Although not fully satisfied with the result it will do for now .
 
 
Next job is to water proof the inside due to moist air getting in which may damage the wood .

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Hi Kevin ,

Yes Manchester frown , nearly always grey wet and windy ,

I have too admit i am fairly new to this electric lark , and it is the electric motors and gear that has sparked me up to doing this modelling lark again .

As i can now build models that previously would have been near impossible to attempt with ic engines .

So this is why i have concerns about damp air getting inside the model which is used to cool the electronic parts, but could also over time damage the model from the inside .

Most models sold in the shops these days are made of foam and so would not suffer the same .

Does anyone else share my concerns ?

I now have the Esc to fit and glue the two half of the fuselage together , fit a foam nose block , then do the wing ducts .

Finding it difficult to get on with the covering solution . as my local shops do not have the supplies i need , sanding sealer , light blue paint or solar film in white , light blue , brown .

I will try some more shops tomorrow but i may have to travel many miles to get what i need frown

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Hi Again all

 

A Little more work done today as i managed to pick up some supplies from a shop in Bolton which i did not know existed . A very nice shop in-deed The Hobby & Model Centre .

Bought a couple of models too smile p . anyway back on track .

 

So now the two halfs of the fuzz put together and made the Air in-takes also add a little more detail to the cockpit .

Build of the Air Intake

Build of the Air Intake

The Air Intake

Ok so next is the rear glazing and the nose .

Then i really have to decide on which is the better option for finishing paint or paint over film /

(Edit - photos separated)

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 17/03/2012 17:07:48

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Hi Kevin ,

I Heard it should be the exit that should be twice the size of the air intake .

So that is why i have a small hole on the inside of the duct to let air in .

See here .

Shows Air Flow

I have now glued a block of foam to the front end and waiting until i can go outside and sand it to shape then out comes the tights again blush

Cheers , steve

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Hi Steve

Just picked up your thread. Nice model and flies well too. Just in case you're interested or anyone else is, there is a 24" span plan of the Sipa 200 for Jetex on the Outerzone free plans site. I've enlarged this myself to about 40" span for edf but just haven't gotten round to building it yet. It's on the list!

Luc

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