Tim Cope Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Its not a precision plane so any servo will do all round ...even the futaba 3003 ...have seen several built with the tower pro MG996 and thats what mine has in it ...its NO problem and works well as for the fiber glass ...if your not sure about it ..why not use the old trick of cyno all over the mounting plate to toughen it up ...basically just tip a bottle or two of cheep thin pound shop cyno all over the wooden plate that has the captive nuts for the undercarriage and let it soak in ...dont forget to cover the triangle bits at the edges too that will make it tuff as old boots as for putting the servos at the rear ...why no ? there is room and plenty of wood ..you will have to strenghten a bit but not a problem to do ...if your using a big motor at the front, it would help with the C of G too I must admite I think it needs to be built as light as pratical, with something like a thunder tigre 130 4T or an OS 125 ....on it for best results .....I picked one up with a CRRC pro 26 in the front and Im still under the osteopath now .....whats the point of putting too much waight in to get the same power?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Pearce Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I have put 2 Hitec HS5425-MG's at the rear one for each elevator. I opened up the existing exit slot for the push rods, added some stand offs and bolted them straight in. As Tim said it helps CG a lot, with a Mintor 33 petrol I needed a little weight in economy. Happy to share pics if needed Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I must admite I think it needs to be built as light as pratical, with something like a thunder tigre 130 4T or an OS 125 ....on it for best results .....I picked one up with a CRRC pro 26 in the front and Im still under the osteopath now .....whats the point of putting too much waight in to get the same power?? FTL26cc Gas Engine Spec. Displacement: 26cc Weight: 920g (w/ spark plug) Carburettor: (Walbro) Diaphragm & Butterfly valve. Prop Speed: 1800 ~ 10000rpm Max power: 1.45PS Suggested prop: 17x8, 17x10, 16x8, 16x10 Ignition: DC-CD (6v only) Mixture: 28:1 to 40:1 Bore/Stroke: 34x28mm Size: 130mm high / 120mm wide* Mount hole: 64mm x 64mm thanks for te advice i will look at smaller 5kg servos for the tail, my intention was to beef up the tail a little, but initally setting this up as intermedate trainer to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Cope Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 sorry richard .....was the point that the two stroke was light ? or just didnt make much power ... I think that 920gm weight is without ignition etc ...and a saito 125 is less that 700gms all in still each to there own ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Posted by Tim Cope on 23/06/2012 22:14:16: sorry richard .....was the point that the two stroke was light ? or just didnt make much power ... I think that 920gm weight is without ignition etc ...and a saito 125 is less that 700gms all in still each to there own ... gone down the gas route as the engine was with import tax £98 from HK so the weight might be an issue but we wil see, engines arrvie monday to bench test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Cope Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 my mate bought one of the HK twostrokes ....the smallest one ...and it is really reliable, but a little course..., but overall he is really pleased with it ....especially for the money ....good luck with yours, it should be cheap to run compaired to a glow of that size, which drink the juice at £22 a gallon !! dont forget to change the fuel tank bung for a petrol one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Thompson 1 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 The MacKay 24 in my XL recently expired, so decided to replace it with a new DLE 20. Surprisingly the DLE is identical in mounting dimensions so it was a straightforward swap, the only difference was in the exhaust port which meant making a new adaptor plate for the exhaust manifold. Amazingly the DLE is 7 oz. lighter than the MacKay! On my XL I had mounted the two battery packs behind the servos but still needed 1 1/2 oz tail weight with the MacKay installed, now I've removed tail weight so model is almost 9 oz lighter; the c of g is now about 115mm from wing le, around 31% of MAC, and flies much better for it, feels much more neutral in flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Posted by Tim Cope on 26/06/2012 08:00:39: my mate bought one of the HK twostrokes ....the smallest one ...and it is really reliable, but a little course..., but overall he is really pleased with it ....especially for the money ....good luck with yours, it should be cheap to run compaired to a glow of that size, which drink the juice at £22 a gallon !! dont forget to change the fuel tank bung for a petrol one.... got the 26cc yesterday , it simular to the rcg engines but the carb is 90 deg to the cylinder, would have prefer the in line version, maybe next time i will pay the extrx $10 petrol mix is either 28-1 or 40 - 1 which whould you start with to run the engine in ? Edited By richard armstrong 2 on 26/06/2012 10:30:39 Edited By richard armstrong 2 on 26/06/2012 10:34:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Cope Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 If your bench running it to start with ...it will not make a lot of differance really as reliability wont be an issue ....if your putting it straight into the plane and going to fly it ...I would use a good quality none injection motorcycle twostroke oil at 40 / 1 the tolerances on these motors isnt that fine...they seem to run in quite quickly .... just remember like all plane engines...you will have to do the fine setting of the carb yourself ...they dont come from the factory exactly right !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 bench runing because the xl is still in its box, buti wull take you advice on tuning the carb, past experiance has taught me to be cautious, anyeay still not go the drill plate yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 need a little help please need to mod my wot 4 wings to take a wing tube hhas anyone done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Morris Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I have just got a WOT 4 XL and started the build yesterday. Thanks to all on this forum I have avoided some of the more frustrating parts of the build. The first thing I fitted was the elevator push rods. How these could be fitted after the tail was in place would have been very difficult. I have fitted an OS 120 four stroke and I have programmed the ailerons to work as flaps. It all should be ready to fly by next week, weather permitting. Thanks to all on here who have contributed and made my build a very pleasurable experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Morris Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Flew my XL today, very predictable and a great flyer. My OS120FS stopped a few times due to not being run in. Also the plastic spinner shattered while the engine was running on the ground. Case for a quality ali spinner to be fitted. Other than these niggles I am more than happy with the model. The flaps worked great, glad I programmed them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard armstrong 2 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 i might look at the flaps programming for my xl just not sure which tx to purchase been looking @ the mx16 from graupner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simpson j Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Hi my wot 4 xl i am replacing stud axles new push rods 3 mm .allclevises. glass cloth u/c plate and engine bulkhead engine fitted roto 25 . fitted engine kill swich had to fit . fitted batteries in fuss aft of servos.to achieve correct c/g john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryW Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 hi guys after reading the thread i too decided to build a wot 4 xl and fitted a zenoah 20 cc petrol engine and the model flies far better than expected or like a normal wot 4 i did a build thread on our club websight which can be viewed at **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Lau Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi Guys, Bought a Wot 4 XL Mk 2 two weeks ago and I flew it with a Laser 100 FS with a 15 x 7 APC prop. No problem taking off on uncut grass with 3.25" wheels. Took off within 60 feet and goes vertical on full throttle (but not forever)! The supplied fuel tank will allow flying times in excess of 18 minutes. Forget the "120 FS recommended engine" that Ripmax quote. The plane will be overpowered and quite unnecessary. What's the point of flying it with a lawn mower engine?? Support Neil Tidey and buy British. The balance point with the Laser installed means having a 6V NiMH Rx battery sited beneath the fuel tank. Balance will be achieved with the cowl and spinner added. Flies easily on half to three-quarter throttle and does almost every manoeuvre in the book. First flight needed some aileron trimming but that was it. Landings are dead easy, but if required you could add 10 degrees of down flaps dialled in with the engine on tickover for a perfect pinpoint approach. No problems with the supplied accessories, but I usually get my bits and bobs from Modelfixings.co.uk. Happy trails, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max50 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 I've built a WOT 4 XL. Just waiting to get servos and engine to complete, but can't decide whether to get an ASP 1.20 fs or a DLE20. The 1.20 fs is a cheaper fit, but the ease of petrol locally, over glo fuel 40 minutes away, and i always have a can of petrol hanging around, is swaying me a bit. Also the thought of using petrol for the first time always keeps pulling me that way. Which would be the better preformer - the 1.20 fs or DLE20 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Morris Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Fitted a NGH 25cc petrol to replace the OS 120FS. Model now alive and terrific to fly. Recently fitted a releasable tow hook and now looking forward to doing a bit of glider towing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max50 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Stuart. What's the noise level like with the standard silencer and pepper pot outlet ? Is it quieter than a normal petrol ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Morris Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Hi Max50, The silencer works very well, I cannot really compare as my other engines are 50cc. The engine is compact and the carb is in a very convenient position. The power is also up there and transition from idle to full power is linear. It takes a couple of hours on it to fully run it in but as I ran it in in the air it didn't take long. Great engine at a great price. Get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max50 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Sounds good. I may get one. I also like that you can get all the engine spares from Just Engines as well. Thanks Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hi all Have been building my Wot 4 xl today and have found that the firewall has not been drilled, do any of you have a template I could use I have e-mailed Ripmax and asked them for one but I'm not hopeful due their lack of customer service. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George McCaig Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hi All I am also looking for a template for drilling the firewall. If anyone can help I would be most obliged George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Morris Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Hi Mark and George, I have looked through my WOT4 XL building handbook and there is no template for drilling the fire wall. The captive nuts are already fitted for the engine mount of their choice so if you are fitting another engine, I fitted a Just Engines 25cc petrol, then you have to make up your own template. Fiddly I know but it isn't too difficult. Good luck. Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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