Jump to content

Wot 4 XL Mk 2 - Build


Recommended Posts

Same here George. My firewall wasn't drilled, and no template. On mine there was a faint cross mark on the firewall. So I clamped my GT25cc on to the engine mount; measured it on a flat surface to get the firewall to prop distance , and drilled and fixed the engine to the mount. My engine mount had lines on the edges, top, bottom and sides, marking the centres. With this I managed to hold the fuselage vertical; placed the engine on the firewall and aligned the side markers on the engine mounts with the cross marks on the fuselage. This seemed to me , spot on where the engine should be , so I drilled and fixed it in that position. Seemed to work for me.

Someone else on this thread had the same; firewall not drilled but they contacted Ripmax and got them to send a template.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


  • 5 weeks later...

Well Santa has squeezed down the chimney with a XL for me and a DLE30 ! Think it has something to do with my wife but as I believe in Santa it could not be ?

So anyone tried a DLE30 in one of these as not sure if it will fit in the cowl leaving any cowl or if it's too long to fit and use the cowl. Offering it up they seem the same length.

Ate there any XL with a DLE30 out there ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DLE 30 will be too heavy, negating the fun-fly aspects of the model and turning it into a brick. I've seen them fly with 26cc CRRC's, but it's too physically big and the cowl can't be used. Mine has a OS110 alpha, much less than 30cc and goes almost vertical. Also a heavy engine might over-stress the airframe.

I wonder how many ARTF failures have been to overstress of this nature...?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Maidened a clubmates XL today, RCG20cc beam mount petrol engine, Mejlik 16 x 8 Carbon prop, 6.5 kg digital servos all around.

Was pleasantly surprised by how well the model behaved in the blustery conditions, engine was brand new but had plenty of power on its first flight and will only improve with more hours.

Model felt light and responsive enough for general fun and large aerobatic manouvers. Massive loops, neat stall turns, Knifes all day and does a passable snap.

Generally flies like a Wot 4 only better.

After fettling the engine and winding in a throttle curve the model was even better. Very Impressed smiley

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Simon. Just wondering what was the approx settings you had on your mates throttle curve.I,m new to petrol and have been flying it on a linear curve at the moment, but haven't flown it for 2months, and only had about 4 flights with it.

Mines an NGH25 GT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Back on thread, I'm just finishing my Wotty XL off.

For the price i'm quite happy, but some basics that should now be ironed out in my view:

Fin too short, needed 5mm adding,

Mix of imperial and metric threads...very silly,

No pre-drilling of the firewall, contrary to instructions,

Tail wheel assembly not worth even bothering with.

Its a nice model and i expect it to fly well on the DLE 20 I have for it, just niggling items really.

Considering the Acro XL at some point, but hopefully with these kinds of things ironed out.

CB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Fitting the elevator push rod is difficult. I discovered that the rod assembly has in the first instance to go through the fuel tank nozzle access hole as this is the only way to clear the way down to the back of the fuselage. While I eventually managed to see the rods through the slots there was no way I could find to persuade them out through the slot. My remedy was to widen the slot to take in a nut as a weight on a length of string, one for each side. By the use of gravity and a telescopic magnet gadget I was able to retrieve the the nut with the string attached. These are then attached (tied in a good knot) to each side of the push rod fitting, remembering to feed the thing trough the fuel tank hole. Also mark on the wooden rod a mark to show which way is up because as you try move it down inside the fuselage you can get in to a right fanckle. Because both wire leads have to be extracted at the same time this too can be a bit of a footer. Once I was able to extract each side I then discovered that the threads have been changed and non of the clevices I have, even from a previous WAT4XL were of any use. What is that about? Anyway Good Luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...