kc Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 If the SLEC plans include the electric version too then it should all be worked out for you. I would be interested to know how the vac formed cowl allows lipo connecting or changing. To explain my points ( sorry for the delay) when substituting an electric motor for glow it is sometimes necessary to move the engine bulkhead forward as brushless motors are shorter than glow engines. If so the front noseleg is moved too which may not work.and the noseleg may well have been intended to be fitted to the back of the (glow )motor mount. A noseleg in the correct place may obstruct the ideal position for the Lipo. It is handy to be able to change and connect the Lipo from the top. If you have to do it from underneath then whilst putting the model the right way up there is a possibility of getting your hands or even leg near the prop. Anyone who has experienced the instant start of an electric motor just by touching the throttle accidentally will know how dangerous that is. In addition some clubs expect you to carry the model out to the flightline without being 'live' to avoid accidents ( tripping up and accidentally touching the throttle etc,etc ) So being able to connect up only at the last moment is safer (hopefully) Same for after landing- you dont want to take the model to pieces on the landing strip just to disconnect and make safe. You don't want to have to use tools -screwdriver etc just to disconnect. There are ways around this - put the lipo in from underneath and have a small hatch to coonect from top. or use a 'shorting' plug setup. Edited By kc on 06/11/2015 14:46:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Parsons 1 Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 The SLEC plan shows the same vacuum formed cowl/nose arrangement as the RCM&E plan, the cowl comes off from the top allowing direct access to either the fuel tank or LiPo battery - the build article in the RCM&E suggests using double sided sticky velcro tape to fasten/remove the battery (and the fuel tank I guess if you opt for the IC version) It sits directly beneath the cowl. The balsa/ply CNC pack I had, and the plans include the details for an extra motor mount for electric motors, which moves the motor forward perhaps 1-1.5 inches approx. It looks like a frame that attaches to the 'firewall' or engine bulkhead - you simply leave it off for the IC version Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 The photos seem to show a one piece cowl which would need putting on before the prop. Perhaps it's just an illusion and the top is separate. No doubt anyone building an electric one now would like to know what motors & lipo have been used successfully by others. Electric motors disappear from sale quite quickly so motor numbers from the original article could be out of date by now. So what currently ( pun intended) available motors have been used on this model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Evans 3 Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 To clarify terminology for the SKY40 . The "cowl" is one ABS vac. form moulding that goes from the front bulkhead to the spinner . The " upper decking and combined wind shield moulding " goes from the front bulkhead up to the leading edge of the wing . Both are retained by small self tapping screws and overlap each other at the front bulkhead position . Hope this helps . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison 2 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Grateful for these further details about the Sky 40 with electric power. I spoke the other day to SLEC about this, and they confirmed the electric option is fully catered for, very helpfully. They are clued up about motors etc, and can recommend particular models. Seems like a great option and is high on my shortlist of possibles... Kc, I take your point about safety - but although my experience is still limited, I haven't seen many (any?) aircraft with top access to the battery & connections: they get turned over for disconnection and/or battery removal. This is certainly the case with the electric glider I've nearly completed, a large removable hatch beneath the centre section. This is at present retained by small screws, but I have it in mind to substitute some kind of quick release catch, when I can devise something. Regards, Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Hi Tony. If its difficult to modify your model for easy battery changing then fit an arming plug in the lead from battery to ESC . Very simple and quick mod for safe operation of electric models . Type arming in search box its been covered many times. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison 2 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Posted by Engine Doctor on 07/11/2015 10:07:29: Hi Tony. If its difficult to modify your model for easy battery changing then fit an arming plug in the lead from battery to ESC . Very simple and quick mod for safe operation of electric models . Type arming in search box its been covered many times. Regards Thanks ED - I looked at various comments on this subject. I can see how important it is, and that it's not too challenging for me to incorporate in my own build(s), so that's what I'll do. rgds Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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