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Typhoon Retracts


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I propose to build the Typhoon from the free plan.I have ordered the cowl and canopy and (correct) size plan. I need to know which make of retracts were fitted to the original so that I can have them ready to start building. Any help appreciated.

                                                                         R. A.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 2 years later...
I am just getting ready to cover my Nijhuis Typhoon (I'm a slow builder)
 
Engine is in and Retracts fitted. PROBLEM - I found that the recommended SuperTecLo-Profile 136GH/2BB servo was not man enough to retract the pair of robart legs and wheels and have had to fit a second servo, one for each leg.
 
I now want to fit a separate retract battery and switch as articled in a recent RCM& E which i have unfortunately lost or mislaid.
 
Can anyone please help me here, I seem to remember that a wire had to be cut somewhere. Was it the white,red or black to the receiver retract channel?
 
Thanks in anticipation
 
EWWBUP
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Have followed the wiring diagram and turned on but nothing doing.
 
I tested the servos by direct connection into channel 5 and still no joy so it looks as though I may have fried both servos although did not smell anything.
 
I reversed the polarity (red to black and visa versa) on one of the servos to try and get them to run in opposite directions. Could this be the problem although can't see why it should have blown both.
 
Do you know of a good servo repairer? After the problems ive had in trying to get these retracts to work, I think I will stick to fixed undercarriage models in future.
 
EWWBUP ( which not surprisingly stands for every which way but up)
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Hi Phil, sounds as though you have a problem there.
I would first of all test the servos separately before you cry "Fire". You say that you tried to reverse one of the servos by reversing the black to red and vise a versa. Well did you also reverse the 3 connections on the feedback potentiometer as well. Then the servo will reverse. I am sure that our learned friends on this site will bear me out on this
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Thanks guys.
 
Yes I did only cut the red wire Alan, so I guess that the problem arose from reversing the polarity on one of the servos as I have tested them again on a single lead direct from the receiver. As I gave it no more than 4.8 volts I wouldn't have thought this would have caused a problem though!
 
Handyman, is it a simple task to reverse the potentiometer connections. I assume I have to take the cover off? (sorry for being a pleb in the electronics field)
 
Regards
 
Phil
 
ps: have found a pair of screwjack units on ebay which look as though they may be a simpler solution. If I can get at least on of the servos to work again will probably use to lift the u/c doors
 

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Alan C. Are we missing something here. I read that that Phil is using two servos, one for each retract. If that is the case, should he not use two "Y" leads to get the power to both servos.
Not wishing to hi-jack Phil's posting but I am about to change my mechanical retracts for a pair of electrical ones and I would also like to use a seperate battery. Would your circuit work for these also.
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Thanks handyman. I have 2 y-leads in the circuit as you suggest but the problem seems to be with the servo as I have tested them both on a direct lead to the receiver. Putting another servo in port 5 works normally
 
 
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Am I missing something here. If PhilO simply reversed the connections to the servo, the circuitry as well as the motor will have suffered revers polarity !
To get the direction changed, one needs to swap the wires on the motor, and the pot, NOT the whole servo.
Easier to buy a servo reverser.

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 12/06/2011 23:04:58

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what you should have is a Y lead plugged into the RX, with a Y lead plugged into one of the outputs, this is for the 2 servos, the remaining lead of the Y into the RX carries the switch, so you should be using 2x Y Leads,
Did you test the servos before you set them up? only the red wire into the RX on the retract socket has the red wire cut, The power goes to the servos through the junction of the 1st Y lead, it cannot go into the RX, cos the reds cut, 4.8 is enough, if reversed, to fry each and everyone of the servos, but generally, purple smoke is given out, and an acrid smell of burning, if you have not had the last 2, then the servos are not getting power, what make are they?
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Servos are Supertec S136 GH.
 
Both servos were working and lifting the gear on test. Problem started when I fitted the by-pass loom and reversed polarity - no servo response whatsoever.
 
Have opened up one of the servos and visually all seems in order - no burning smell and no burnt components. When I connected a standard servo to port 5 this worked fine but when I did similar with the retract servos, again nothing therefore cannot be lack of power and must be some electronic component failure.
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Have spoken to Mike at Model Radio Workshop @ explained the situation.
He says reversing the polarity manually rather than electrically has blown the amplifiers. a stupid and relatively expensive mistake.
Doesn't think it is economic to repair but I hate to be beat so if anyone has a pair of broken SUPERTEC S136 GH servos ( with electronics board intact) I will make them an offer .
PhilO
 
 
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