Viking42 Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Yes, Sorry for upsetting you and the misspelling and misleading name - it is ORACOVER Scale White (get it via/from a friend). I just wanted to know if anyone of you has experienced any problems when painting upon this type of covering materials. Regards Peter G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Hi, Covering and painting now complete. Still to add is a small battery (over the ESC) switch. I was pusseled, when installing the normal 2-wired (red & black) switch, I´ve used before, only tro find out hat the motor wouldn´t start. All went OK when no switch inbetween, so, I had to order a 3-leaded variant (red, black & white) Hopefully it will work with that. CG i still a concern, even with a double battery pack. Has to be rechecked. This is the main conversion concerns I find when going electric. The rest is more or less standard procedure. I wouldn´t mind if the scale would have been 1:5 with a somewhat larger fuselage. I also couldn´t hold the weigt down to the predicted, mainly due to the "double battery arrangement". Hope for a first flight if weather permits in March. VIKING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 That's a very nice looking Fournier and good luck for the maiden flight. BTW, on the previous discussion regarding coverings, there's always the option of using Glosstex for future projects as this totally negates the need for any painting (apart from trim lines and registration letters etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Very pretty. I will look forward to hearing how the test flights go. Maybe one day I might build abigger one but not for along time yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Bill B and Peter M, Thank you both for your positive feedback! Unfortunately photos do lie at times (I will never be a skilled "decal-designer", and I thus had to leave some lines etc out (as for the Swedish-registered original). What will matter is the flying qualities, which I hope will be as good as Peter´s pictures have shown that they can be. As we still have winter here with snow, flying will have to wait, at least until spring sunshine will prevent finger stiffness and wet lawns! Regards VIKING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Build the fournier last winter, conversed to electro. motor used is Simprop MT 35-11 on 3S1P 3200 mA 20C battery. The total weight is 1680 gamms. I had to put 330 gramms lead in the nose to get the CofG at the spot on the drawing. The cockpit cowl has to be fitted, but the pilot figur first needs some cosmetic surgery. for picture from the build so far click link http://www.home.zonnet.nl/smits146/fotos/IMG_0209.jpg http://www.home.zonnet.nl/smits146/fotos/IMG_0211.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Koen, Indeed a very beautiful RF 4!. I put double batteries (2 x Li-ion 2200 mAh) up front just to try to avoid balancing, but will need some lead upfront no doubt. Trial launches will tell how much. How did you cover your machine? All balsa = i.e. also the wings? What sor of paint did you use? VIKING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Viking, The wing is as suggested on the plan. The whole machine is covered with ' Oracover ' only the inside of the sheeks and the cockpit-floor is painted. With the wing, i started with the underside. The upperside i started in the center and used three angular strips for every color. For the fuselage, i did first the bottom and then the sides also with three angular strips, first the red from tail to the wing and then color by color to the front. The wingfairings last. From the whole coveringjob, the covering from the cowl and sheeks was the most difficult and time consuming and toke a lot of waste oracover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Koen, My model like yours is also covered to 90% with oracover. Excluded are cockpit and cowling, both painted. I found out, that some car paintings and alikes in spray bottles, did stick on to Oracover, why I bougt one in the closest possible colour to the original, then painted some part of the remaining oracover sheet. I made some masters out of stiffer brown paper, and did cut out after them. Thus the front blue, forward of the canopy, is of Oracover, made after masters. The letters have a different procedure. 1) Write what you want in Powerpoint - save as JPEG. 2) Open in photoshop and mirror the letters. Resize letters to wanted size - save and print. 3) Use Glue stick or paperglue to stick the letters on to the backside of the painted oracover - then cut out. 4) Fasten the Oracóver letters with non-shrinking varnish. 5) When all our with varnish fastened "decals" are dry, give a cote of varnish over them for protection. Of course you can do the same with figures or whatever, dependant upon your skill.. The wings finally, where sprayed - of course you have to protect the rest of the model with drawingboard tape + magazine paper etc. When dry, give a coat of warnish. I found that Oracover is a very good and forgiving covering material, but the painting procedures, i.e. finalization of the model, are difficult, and will ruin many good builds. Yet having decals made by proffesionals is atleast here, an expensive story. That´s why my models look and will look the best in the air. VIKING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Today I did a motortest to find out the static trust and current. With a 10 x 7 prop the reading were 42 Amps and a trust from 1.6 Kg. At 3S 3500 mAh. With a 11 x 5.5 prop the reading were 42 Amps and a trust from 2.1 Kg. At 3S 3500 mAh. So i will try both props on the maiden for the best result in speed, power and flight time. Picture from my test equipment. The receiverand the ESC i use only for test purposes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Nice and proper outfit! It´s always good to have safe power at hand ! Good luck! Viking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Almost ready for maiden. In a very unnatural position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Very neat. I wil look forward to hearing how you like her in flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Huray, Yesteday, april 1st, maiden from my Fournier RF4, it's a very nice plane to fly, but on the ground it's difficult, reason is the front under carriage is to weak and the outriggers were to stiff. I heave to work a little on these two points and then it will be a pleasure to fly with it. At the maiden flight the 10 x 7 prop was mounted and the power was enough. Flighttime appox. 6 minutes on 3S, 3200 mAh, 25C. A short video impession on http://members.home.nl/koen.smits/Fournier.WMV the video will be available until 8 april. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking42 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Well done, Koen! Beutiful landing! How did she feel concerning CG? Very sensitive or not on elevator? Regards Viking P.S. I have not been airborne yet - hopefully after Eastern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Glad you had such a good flight. I am surprised that you say the undercarriage is too weak. It is a little far back for the length of grass you are flying from but not weak. She does hand launch nicely though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Peter, the reason about the weakness of the undercarriage is, i used 1.5 mm pianowire because all of the undercarriages i could buy over here, had 1 leg that was to short. This week i'll try to bent a new one from 3 mm pianowire but first i have to make a decent bending tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Ah! That explains it. I suggest moving the wheel forward from the shown location. It doesn't like anything longer than bowling green grass or tarmac in the position shown. For some reason my RF-7 is a little better even though there is not much differecne in wheel location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 After making a new undercarriage from 4mm pianowire and reasonable wetter flown the Fournier again. With a 3200mAh 25 C flighttime with mixed trottle ca. 15 minutes. Because the she was very sensitiv on the ailerons during the maidenflight i programmed about 50% exponential on the aileroncontol. Small picture from second start, flight and landing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KS3bTlNGnY Edited By Koen Smits on 29/04/2012 13:52:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 On the link below is a downloadeble drawing from my wirebender, feel free to download and use it. becuase i am from the metric side of europ, the dimensions are in metric http://members.home.nl/koen.smits/draadbuiger.pdf Edited By Koen Smits on 29/04/2012 13:54:31 Edited By Koen Smits on 29/04/2012 13:57:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Nice flight. Now try aerobatics. Very graceful and has to be flown round them Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Pictures how to use the wirebender on the links below, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jS80_0OyfkM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URk8qv3d2XY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRH0Jkz_vE4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWXTkqFD5_M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbRSM_xwUJw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gibbins Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 For your info, I bought one of those cheap electric retract units via ebay and have mounted mine onto a plate just behind behind the main former 1 with a cutout under the front fuselage and wing. The retract then works forwards. A cutout in the front of the wing is also needed to get the gear in the correct position. I tend now to buy Overlander 3548 motors and fit them into whichever aircraft that I am making so there is one in my harlequin as well. The fournier flies for 12 minutes on a 3cell 2200 and on recharge I find that there is about 30% of the charge still remaining. Mine flies like all Peter Millers planes, very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 John is it possible to post a picture how you modified the fuss and wing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I would be interested to see that retract conversion too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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