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Astro Hog


Martyn K
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Martin,
 
The Astro Hog kit arrived the week before last and it's been redesigned for a trike undercarriage, which I think Ill do the tail dragger version. I have the original plan in the shed, so tomorrow I'll have a look and clarify the fin rudder thickness. I remember Geoff Franklins Hog in his shop window years ago, always had my nose pressed against the glass and thinking one day I'll have one of those.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
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Posted by Big Bandit on 12/11/2011 20:28:46:
Martin,
 
The Astro Hog kit arrived the week before last and it's been redesigned for a trike undercarriage, which I think Ill do the tail dragger version. I have the original plan in the shed, so tomorrow I'll have a look and clarify the fin rudder thickness.Cheers,
 
Chris.
Hi Chris
 
Thats magic...
 
It would be interesting to know if you have the high tail or the original low tail version as well.
 
Martyn
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Hi Martin,

Mines the original with a low slung tail and it clearly says 3/32 fin and rudder, that's bizarre. As Kc has said it could be lamination's to achieve 3/16 but more likely it's a misprint. A mate of mine's has built loads of the type and if I can I'll get over to see him and see what he has.
 
Can't look in the kit now, it's been declared off limits until Christmas day .

Cheers,

Chris.
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That's a real mix then.I have lost count of the variants, I thought all the 'modern' trike undercarriage ones had the high tailplane.
 
OK on the crimbo pres, hopefully I'll be well on the way with mine at by then, but first, I need to complete the 'Ohm Maiden' to make some space.
 
Regards
 
Martyn
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
It Begins...
 
Having cut out the ply parts, I then sat down with the plan and stared to wonder just how the hell I was going to get the engine to fit. I have updated the plan and the revised front end can be seen here:

Basically, it's totally different.
 
F1 which was originally a front end for a too small tank, is now 6mm ply, full width and will carry the Nylon engine mount. It had to be moved back by 20mm to keep the prop in the same place.
 
A 14oz fuel tank has been selected. This means that F2 (and F3,F4) are also moved back by 35mm.
 
The original had 3mm ply doublers inlaid with the 3mm balsa sides. These were to suppport the wing mount dowels - the orignal had elastic bands to hold the wings on. These have been dropped and a bolt on wing will be used instead.
 
The 3mm balsa doublers are extended bak to the TE of the wing at the top of the Fuselage and about 150mm behind the TE (tapered) at the bottom of the fuselage and overlaid with 1.5mm ply.
 
A 6mm ply floor sits between F1 and F2 to lock them together and the whole lots is (or will be) sheeted in with 12.5mm balsa sheet.
 
I was originaly hoping to mount the engine on its side but unfortunately the silencer intersects the fuselage side perfectly - so it will be the right way up.. Shame really...
 
The next bit shows where I have actually got up to..
 
Martyn
 
 
 

Edited By Martyn K on 24/11/2011 17:56:31

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Fuselage Part 1
 
Following on from the theoretical intro above, I simply need to actually make this into reality.
 
So here goes:
 

 

The Fuselage sides are spliced together to cater for the length and then one side is the template for the other. Sanded to make them identical.

I suppose the first potential problem is that the Fuselage is now longer than my building board..
 
Add 3mm doublers, 1.5mm ply double doublers and sheet in the are in front of the ply. Lots of batteries to keep it all very flat and persuade the wood not to lift before the glue dries.

Everything sanded down so that it remains identical.
 
The rear fuselage bits - longerons and verticals added using whatever I had in the wood pile
 
 

The revised F1 F2 bits etc all glued in place on the RH side
 
and


Note the packing to cater for the Right Thrust built into F1
 
And when dry, the second fuselage side was added..
 

Which is where I got to last night... The good news is that everything that should be straight appears to be so.
 
More to come..
 
Martyn
 

Edited By Martyn K on 24/11/2011 17:59:16

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Fuselage Part 2
 
Amazingly, I have managed to make a bit of progress this week, the engine mount has been drilled (accurately for a change):
 
 
 
 
The rest of the time has mainly been spent getting the front end more or less completed.
1/2" sheet has been added inside the fuselage between F1 and F2 and also in front of F1 under the engine mount. The tank is a very tight fit - it has to be squeezed into location and consequently, I need two hatches, 1 on top to access the tank and then one immediately below so I can push the tank out if needed.
As usual, I forgot to take the mass of photos but hopefully these will give some indication of where I am up to:
The front end with the engine mount in, and additional right thrust (4 degrees total) added. For some reason the side thrust I built in had disappeared when I removed the weights off the fuselage.
 
What you can see is (working from the inside), 1/2" inner cheeks, 1/6" balsa filler and 2 laminations of 1/8" outer. The 1/16" ply doubler stops at F1.
 
The tank hatch is held at the rear with an aluminium peg and 2 woodscrews at the front above the engine mount. The hatch is faced with 1/32 ply at the rear and 1/16 ply at the front. Quite a snug fit, I am very pleased with it.
 

Another view with the first former behind the engine/tank bay added. Because F1 and F2 have been moved back, F4 (sitting behind F2 and F6 had to be tweaked to get the stringers to align properly. The result of this was that the lower stringer on each side didn't fit and additional slots had to be cut. Not a huge issue but I should have thought this through.

This shot show the Fuselage held in place with batteries (they have their uses) and the formers in the rear fuselage added, finally the remaining stringers have been added and the whole lot pinned and allowed to dry properly.
 

The other thing I have done is filled the area under the engine mount with very soft balsa block and sanded it down so it looks less like a boat. Unable to take a photo as the front end is held down solidly while the fuselage dries - hopefully straight!
 
More to come - the next thing wiill be the lower formers and stringers and then planking the rear fuselage.
 
I think it was kc who said there is a lot of wood in this , so far - the understatement of the year!
Martyn


Edited By Martyn K on 27/11/2011 20:26:27

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Fuselage Part 3
 
Here is a photo of the underside of the front end showing the hatch (behind the 6mm former), the blocked in front end and a first attempt at carving, planing and sanding.
 

The rear lower formers have been added. There is not a lot of contact area so I have bolstered these up with 3/8 x 1/8 balsa cross members and then glued the former to these as well as the longerons.
 


 
This is where the tailplane will mount if I was using 'banded-on' technique. I need to think how this will be modified for a glued on tailplane. It shouldn't be too difficult.
 
 


Finally a shot from the rear end top of the fuselage. This bit gets filled in with soft block and the fin will sit into a slot in the block.
 
May not get much more done this week. More to come though.
 
Martyn

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14 ounce tank, blooming heck what are you powering the model with?
I planned on using a 6 ounce tank and either a laser 70 or laser 80 up front.
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Posted by Martyn K on 06/12/2011 23:03:49:
HiJohn
 
It's what the man in the shop recommended!
 
It doesn't actually look that big.Engine is an ASP61. I want 10-12 minutes run time, but this is the first 61 powered aircraft I have ever built.
 
Martyn

Oh, where's the shot down in flames emoticon . On the other hand, you'll probably find throttle management features high on your thumb activity when you get one up!


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Hi John
 
You may well be right! mr Modelshop owner has a vested interest in selling me lots of fuel and bigger tanks are dearer than small tanks. Does anyone else think that 14oz is too big? When full, this will add (I presume) 14oz to the all-up weight or about 10% of the total airframe mass. It is quite easy to fit a small tank at this stage and I don't really feel too concerned about another couple of quid to get it right.
 
 
Martyn
 
 
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Hi Myron
 
Thanks.. 10oz was the next size down. I'll go and buy one... Batteries?
 
It will actualy resolve another problem that I wasn't anticipating - throttle linkage is currently very tight for space - even for a Sullivan snake.
 
Cheers
 
Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 08/12/2011 14:10:08

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Thanks - sounds promising.
 
I have made a bit of progress this week - not as much as I would have hoped for but I am currently planking the upper fuselage. Hardly exciting stuff and quite time consuming. I managed 5 planks last night. Photos later.
 
Martyn
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And to prove my point, here are a couple of shots of planking in progress. I am now working on the front section from behind the hatch.
 
The planking was complicated because of the hump behind the cockpit area...
 

and


The rear of the 'decking' is actually solid block. The slot for the fin was cut on the bandsaw to make sure that it was vertical.
 
The protrusions that you can see on the top of the fuselage are actually balsa wedges to make the planks have good contact with each other. It looks better on the photo than reality, but it is smooth and there are no significant gaps
 
Martyn

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Posted by Martyn K on 08/12/2011 09:54:58:
Hi John
 
You may well be right! mr Modelshop owner has a vested interest in selling me lots of fuel and bigger tanks are dearer than small tanks. Does anyone else think that 14oz is too big? When full, this will add (I presume) 14oz to the all-up weight or about 10% of the total airframe mass. It is quite easy to fit a small tank at this stage and I don't really feel too concerned about another couple of quid to get it right.
 
 
Martyn
 
 
Hi Martyn, loving the build 14 oz does sound a bit big though, and a massive CG change from full to empty, but you don't need to fill it for the first flights, will be interested in the outcome.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
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