Super 60 build, Big Bandit

[Big Bandit]

Hi All,

 

I've elected to build the common choice Super 60 using the Ben Buckle 3 channel kit. I intend to follow as far as possible the original 1962 version to keep within Spirit of the vintage build and will use;

 

A period glow motor Merco 29 or 35, although the post office have mislaid the 29 I won on Ebay. A forum member has very kindly sold me a 35 that I will renovate just for the model.

 

Nylon covering,at the moment I only have orange (it's all the LMS had), but seem to remember there's a box of the stuff in the loft somewhere. Bet that's orange too .

 

Trying to replicate the originals simetrical tailplane.

 

The tail plane will be mounted using nylon bolts rather than rubber bands again in the interests of reliability.

 

I did intend to use torque rods rather than push rods for rudder and elevator, but there can be simply too much slack in the linkage at the control surface end so in the interest of reliability it'll be closed loop on rudder and a push rod for the elevator, snakes are out !.

 

The kit includes an alloy engine mounting plate, I'll use 3mm paxolin or Glass fibre as alloy has a habit of helping the vibration from the motor to resonate through the airframe and it is more liable to work harden and crack (Mardave L82 motor mounts on RC cars did just that with a Veco 19 bolted to em).

 

I may build a second set of wings with ailerons, but they will be inset rather than strip ailerons as they just do not look right.

 

So off we go.

 

Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 12/11/2011 18:36:33

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Sounds interesting Chris. Orange isn't so bad - well if you squint at it from a distance...

 

BEB

[Danny Fenton]

looking forward to following along, never ever built a super 60, though meant to

 

Cheers

Danny

[Big Bandit]

 

It's going to be a bit cramped to build this one in the shed, but the garage re-roof has been put on hold while the house was rewired.

 

I always start by clearing the decks and pinning the plans to the building board, further I always have 2 copies of the plan made and use those to build with, and use for former patterns if I need to. I also collect all the bit's I need to get started including RC gear and motor.

Make sure all tools are at hand ready to go and the sanding blocks have new carbide paper of the grades you need, I use 120 and 60 at this stage.

 

 

[Big Bandit]

Cover the plan with plastic sheet to protect it, decorators dust sheet is so cheap about £3 for a 30 meter roll. When cutting longerons I use a scalpel to cut just over size and finish to size and shape with 120 grit paper on a sanding block.

 

Pin the ready shaped formers over the plan then cut the longerons taking care to tapper the ends where indicated on the plan. Then pin the longerons out gluing to the formers. Normally for all longerons and uprights I pin either side of the balsa, but with 1/4 Sq it's not a problem pinning through them as long as the pins are not too thick. And use small clamps where necessary to ensure joints are firmly held together.

 

The 3 ready cut formers to use at this stage of the build.

When cutting longerons and uprights I prefer to cut two at the same time and sand them to size whilst held together. It takes a little longer to do, but the second fuselage side goes together very quickly and is more likely to be accurate.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Big Bandit]

The front end as far as I've got today, Ill leave the first two infill panels until the fuselage side are complete as they use 1/8 balsa and therefore will be handed for left and right sides.

 

The motor I intend to use when it's been renovated. Might do a blog on cleaning and setting it up.

 

[Big Bandit]

To follow on cut and fit the rest of the uprights along with the diagonals. When cutting diagonals I like to make two cuts so they glue to the logerons and the uprights so it gives an overall stronger joint. At the same time fit any fillets.

 

 

 

At the same time fit the rear infill, the panel directly before this one is 1/8 Balsa and so like the two front formers needs to be fitted after removing the sides from the board to ensure left and right hand sides.

 

 

You should wind up with a complete fuselage side ready to build the second side, using a pile of pre cut longerons uprights and diagonals. When cutting uprights and diagonals I like to cut the longest first then if you make a mistake they can always be used for the shorter ones.

 

 

The proof of the pudding can be judged on how much in the way of offcuts are left when you've finished .

And finally poor yourself a long one put the telly on and veg while the glue dries and you down load the latest pic's and continue with the blog.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Big Bandit]

Hi All,

 

Managed a bit more today,

 

remove all of the modeling pins and leave the first side on the board, cover it with some plastic sheet. Then build the second side over the first, taking care to ensure the all of the balsa strips and formers are directly over and lined up with the ones underneath. should wind up looking like this.

 

 

I did find one small problem when the rear former was cut too small, and had to cut another.

Must try to find one of Danny's sanding aids, in the mean time I made this some time ago. It's a cheapo 540 motor and mount from Maplins, made the disk from PC board with a Mecano wheel soldered to the back and adapted to fit the motor shaft. Self adhesive paper and a home made Mosfet speed controller sees the job done. Model Car Nims pack for power. Other wise I use the edge of the building board as a guide.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Danny Fenton]

nice one Chris, looks very useful. Certainly coming along well.

Cheers

Danny

[Andy Green]

Following with interest Chris - truth be told I'm waiting for you to mess up before I do so I don't make the same mistake

 

Andy

Edited By Andy Green on 15/11/2011 22:02:48

[Big Bandit]

Thanks Danny, Andy,

 

There's time yet for the Gremlins to creep in , hopefully they won't be big ones.

 

Done a bit more today, before hospital visiting time again, I needed to get former F4 done before I can progress with the fus, so I dragged out the small building board and did that bit.

And whilst I was at it I did the tailplane, noting that I've deviated from the original by setting two blocks for the bolt mounting I'm using.

 

I feel that a further deviation is to add some gussets along the main spar and trailing edge, which I'll do later. It's important to bear in mind the weight at the tail end, so any mods should be kept light.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Big Bandit]

Guess what,

 

The second Merco 35 arrived today, just found it behind the bin, where the post office, bless em had left it, and they have now found my 29 that they lost, so now I have 3. Plus an OS Max 35, I won on Ebay just in case. They used to call me Dr Flymo, because I was into renovating lawn mowers. Now it's Mr Merco .

 

Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 16/11/2011 22:06:52

Edited By Big Bandit on 16/11/2011 22:07:22

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Super 60 is coming along nicely Chris. As someone said elsewhere in another thread I think these vintage jobs seem go together quite quickly don't they?

 

BEB

[Big Bandit]

Hi BEB,

 

I'm enjoying it, another flying buddy of mine built one some years ago. I think he used a 2.5 diesel in it with single Chanel RC, then had a flyaway on the first flight. He got it back though. He recons it's the most pleasant build he's ever done. Off to do a bit more after breakfast, and the weathers looking good for the afternoon so I'll probably ring the T28 out for a bit.

 

Cheers,

Chris.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Just adding a post so I can keep up to speed....

 

It is amazing just how enjoyable these vintage models are to build.....I loved building my Mini Super.....I think its just the fact of gluing a few sticks together & producing an airframe that is so appealing......

 

I'm sure I have an old Merco 35 lurking in a drawer.....maybe I'll have to dig it out build a Super 60 myself.....

 

One thing to bear in mind Chris.....the Merco silencer is absolutely rubbish at cutting the dBs down so you might need to think about an extra muffler.....the problem is attaching it because the outlet is a hole rather than a tube.......

Edited By Steve Hargreaves on 17/11/2011 12:11:27

[Big Bandit]

Hi Steve,

 

Because the Merco silencers split horizontally it should be easy to fabricate an extra baffle, I have a sound pressure level meter so it won't be too much bother to arrange something effective. I seem to remember an article some months ago in the magazine have to take another look. Now the PO have found the one they lost I'm pretty well sorted on in the IC department for this one.

 

They just need a bit of TLC and a good clean up, as a last resort I can fall back on the OS, and I have a Sosmo extension silencer.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Big Bandit]

Managed a bit more today, and started by fitting some gussets to the tailplane, may also do a few for the LE, I just do not think a simple but joint is robust enough.

 

Put that to one side to let the glue dry.

 

 

And crack on with sanding down the fus sides, remembering to do both sides of each fus side.

 

Taking care not to remove much material, just a good clean up.

The front end

I don't normally throw the sanding dust away.

 

Mixed with good old Ambroid balsa cement it makes a decent filler.

 

 

Back in a bit.

 

Chris.

 

[Danny Fenton]

Coming along nicely Chris

 

Cheers

Danny

[Big Bandit]

The next job is to fit the 1/8 balsa infill to the first two bays, remembering as I pointed out earlier to make a left and right hand fuselage side. Also add the two uprights allowing room for the former F4 to fit.

 

 

Then dry fit former F4,

Check it both sides.

Check the general position of the tank and motor relative to each other.

 

Also roughly check there's room under the upper cowling for the tank to fit comfortably.

And mark up former F3 and F4 to fret out for the tank to fit, this is a tad lower than I like, which is normally with the centre of the tank, just below the fuel inlet nipple on the carb. I think that with pressure bleed from the silence to the tank it shouldn't be a problem. If the tank were higher it would fowl the upper cowling.

 

 

As for the tailplane I don't like but joints, so I've stripped some 1/4 sheet to 1/4 x 1/2 for more gussets.

And get those glued in, one thing I hate is when covering or just general handling is for but joints to let go.

 

Just a handy bit of kit I found at a local DIY shop, cost £1.45, and great for cutting things like gussets.

I would have got more done today if temptation had not got the better of me with a couple of hours at the field practicing aero's with the T28, consecutive loops, barrel rolls, reversals, and inverted circuits had a big grin all afternoon. My flying buddy also took his T28 which is a new model and his first computer radio gear, the model was a bit out of trim and he hadn't set any rates so it was a bit of a hectic first flight for him, but we got it sorted and both enjoyed our selves.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Posted by Big Bandit on 18/11/2011 00:10:45:

Hi Steve,

 

Because the Merco silencers split horizontally it should be easy to fabricate an extra baffle, I have a sound pressure level meter so it won't be too much bother to arrange something effective. I seem to remember an article some months ago in the magazine have to take another look. Now the PO have found the one they lost I'm pretty well sorted on in the IC department for this one.

Looking good Chris....seems you have enough motors to start a squadron of Super 60s.....

 

If my memory serves me I recall that the Merco silencer already has a baffle cast into it in the form of an ally web which leans forward on one half & backwards on the other half thus creating an "X" sort of baffle when the silencer halves are joined. The 3 small screws holding the two halves together often vibrate loose too......all in all not a good design...

[Jimbo565]

Chris,

 

The boys up North will admire your choice of beer .

 

Jim Ne23 Brown ale dept.

 

PS, the super 60 aint bad either

[Big Bandit]

Hi Jim,

 

Yep it's the brain lube of choice, think I was weaned on the stuff, my mate at work wouldn't agree but he's from Sunderland OOooooops now I'll get modded for swearing on line .

 

Chris.

[Big Bandit]

Managed to get a bit more done today, fret out Former F3 and F4 to suit the fuel tank, my choice is a 4oz Fusion product.

 

Fit the rear insert panels from 1/16 balsa,remembering again the left and right hand sides.

Now's the time to fit former F3, ensuring it's square, I use 15 min Epoxy for these joints.

 

The same again with former F4, the slots previously made this a bit easier, again, square is the key word, use the clamps along with the set squares to ensure !.

 

 

And the same again with the built up former, pins to locate and set squares to ensure accuracy, spring clamps help while the epoxy dries.

 

 

Finally the two cross members, I used 1/4 x 1/2 for these, pins for alignment and set squares to ensure true to vertical.

Let it all cure and do the shopping, hoovering, and eating .

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

 

 

Edited By Big Bandit on 18/11/2011 19:34:04

[Big Bandit]

 

Add the 1/4 x 1/4 wing seat doublers and looking good to join the fus sides.

 

 

Starting to look like a Super 60 now , may be time for another long one .

 

 

Clamp up and use pins while the Aliphatic and epoxy cures, cross members and underside sheeting for tomorrow.

 

Just goes to show, a bit a day gets it done and stops me shopping on Ebay .

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 18/11/2011 19:48:20

[Big Bandit]

Another session today and it's looking like a Super 60 now,

 

When setting the front former F3 it's important to make sure it's square with the top of the fus frame at the front as it sets the motor down thrust, Epoxy used for all joints on front formers and engine bearers. Using the bearers and a few laggy bands to hold the F3 in place while the epoxy cures. Two pins for it to stand on ensure it's lined up properly.

 

Both former needed a bit of fete-ling with some carbide paper stuck to an old ruler in order that the bearers sat square and parallel, noting the down thrust angle. .

 

Then as with the uprights, I've cut two at a time referring to the plan view of the fus for correct length and angles of each end. Back to the old Aliphatic for these, and use what ever clamp's available, the ones I have are Micro Mold products, but I only have four. I did intend to buy more at the Nat's this year. Just a suitable rubber band around the fus also works OK.

Progress so far. and looking more like it now.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Chris.