Anthony Billings Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 That is looking really good Chris, and your build blog with it's good explanations, photo's and tips is going to prove invaluable when I start my build. Keep up the good work. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 looking really good Chris, one criticism, not very diesely that thar engine Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 Thanks Tony, hope it helps and can we expect a build blog .Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 Hi Danny, I'm hanging my head in shame and half expecting Steve with a rolled up KK hand book round to give me a good ear bashing , I have managed to get some proper 6BA nuts and bolts though . Hope to get the Sharkface started tomorrow as well, and to redeem myself the motors I've sorted are these . so it'll have to be the cox . Now I'll have to change the prop for a KK with large sharp finger biting flash on it . Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Don't worry Danny/Chris...I am keeping an eye on things through the mince pies & the sherry.......... The nylon covering...the ancient dope...the 6BA bolts......at the side of these the lack of a diesel engine is quite acceptable.....why I'd even be happy with an electric motor....well maybe not quite but it is the season of goodwill to all men after all..... Is that one of your Mercos Chris....the 29 perhaps?? A suitably ancient & indeed period engine.... Carry on the good work Chris..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Chris, yes there will be a small build blog, but sadly will have to wait till I get home from this trip, currently off the coast of Brazil laying oil pipe, and before you all say lucky sod, it's peeing it down but slightly warmer than home. Should get home around then end of Jan so providing the list of jobs is not too big from SWMO then I will be able to start the build, I can't wait, it will be the first build I have done for donkey's years. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Steve, Just cut all of the stuff for the Sharkface and gathered up all of the other bits, It's got to be the Cox with the diesel head for this one. I'll post the pici's later and do a bit of a mini blog. This afternoon a mates coming round and I have to get to the shops, so it'll be later this evening. Yes it's a Merco 35 that I got from a guy on the forum and I've just rebuilt it and fitted a new head, runs just sweet. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hi Tony, Don't envy you that job mate, just do not like being out at sea. My daughter on the other hand has already done her off shore bosuns ticket a few years ago, she had a few mates at Thames Water who were into sailing and one had a yacht, I'd sooner be at 3000 feet in a glider. Just have to hope SWMO doesn't present you with too big a list, from the job that you do it sounds like you need lots of shed time when you get home. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Hi Chris, any pics of the finished article yet? I noted on another thread that you had started the sharkface. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Just as it was getting to the good bits he gets distracted! Seriously nice work Chris! As always! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hi Tony, Yes, with the running about to do over the festive period and all of the other family duties a small quicky seemed a good idea, where all of the jobs take very little time. It's now about finished, so will be back on the Super 60 this weekend. I'll get the elevator connected up and the throttle linkage done, motor in and plumbed up, and the undercart fixing blocks in, UC on ready for applying the trim. Seriously enjoying building this one. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks BEB, will be back on the case this weekend, I'm pondering which trim to apply coloured tissue or nylon doped on or mask off and spray, just not too keen on spraying with the humidity as high as it is at the moment. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Spray, Chris? SPRAY? We never had sprays back in my day, coloured tissue or brushed Humbrol colour dope with period-authentic brush marks was what we had if we were lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Well, had a bit of shed time today now the work for the week is behind me, now the Sharkface is done it's back on the Super 60. The first job was to drill the UC for holding screws, I just didn't like the idea of elastic bands holding an undercarriage on. The thought of the thing coming loose on a landing and taking the rear fuselage out doesn't appeal. I prefer self tapping screws for this job, and if they do get ripped out on a heavy landing, just change em for bigger ones. Drill the 1/8 uc mounting plate in the fuselage to suit. I've also cut a 1/4 ply plate to sit on the existing 1/8 plate, and glued it in place with 30 min epoxy. Fit the UC and it's that job done. I need to get to the supplier tomorrow for some 40mm long 3.5mm HT set screws, and nylock nuts. 6BA just doesn't do this job. Tomorrow it's fit the motor properly and sort out the throttle linkage, but for today it's time for a night cap, then get some Z's in. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Chris...I use M5 or M6 nylon bolts screwed into captive nuts for this sort of job......adds a sort of weak link if you like without ripping the floor of your fuselage away!!!! Obviously 3/16" or 1/4" Whitworth bolts would be more suitable but a tad difficult to find these days.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Steve, Good idea, why didn't I think of that . I started using self tappers when I did the old Don Stotthers Jabawock, and it wasn't even my idea then, it was a mate of mine who started using them with some success and it was the same type of UC. There are some M6 nylon bolts in the shed I think, I'll have a look later. Always helps to have a "designed" in break point rather than trash some hard to repair structure.Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 I managed to get around the local models shops yesterday for some supplies, not a good idea. Went out at 9:30 and didn't get back until 3:30 in the afternoon, but I did get some hard to get goodies and met up with some old mates. So it's on with the build. First off was drilling for the throttle linkage, which if I follow my own advise I'd have done at an earlier stage before I covered the fuselage, it's so much easier. Not having a 3mm x 200mm long drill it's time to improvise. So I filed a sharp end on a 3mm threaded rod and used my old mini drill with great care. You definitely do not want that going off square and flaying around in the fus . But it works. If your trying this be very careful. Feed a length of 16 gauge piano wire through to the engine bay. Then feed a length of plastic tube along the wire from the engine end into the radio compartment. pull the 16 gauge out and replace with 18 gauge for the throttle linkage. Form a z bend at the servo end, and drill and check the fit the engine mounting plate. Fit the motor to the plate and fix in place. Fit the z bend to the servo arm, and set the servo at the full throttle setting with the servo tester. Then set the throttle of the motor to fully open. I've used a ball joint at the throttle end so tighten this with a lock nut to the throttle arm, proper BA spanners help for this job. I'm using Futaba radio gear which uses a pulse width from 100 to 200 Milli seconds for servo travel, from one end to the other (150 Milli seconds the servo being centered). This servo tester gives a read out so you know exactly where you want the servo to be. So 200 Milli seconds the servo's at full throw for throttle fully open Now for a bit of soldering . I prefer soldering to cyano or epoxy for this job. Mark and cut the 18 Gauge piano wire to length using a 2mm adapter and the chosen linkage offered up to check. Clean the end of the wire with steel wool to ensure it's clean and free from grease. Then using plumbers flux, put a small amount of flux on the end of the wire to stop it oxidizing, clean the tip of the soldering iron by dipping it in the flux when it's up to temperature. I use tape to cover anywhere I don't want flux splatter. With the adapter pushed over the wire, heat the adapter and feed solder down the end, it'll feed itself by capillary action when it's hot enough. The steel ruler holds the wire off th tape and acts as a heat sink to stop the plastic tube that the wire runs through melting. Let the job coll properly before carrying on. If the solder has stayed shinny the jobs a good un, clean off any visible flux. Back in a bit, Chris. Edited By Big Bandit on 08/01/2012 06:58:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 To move on, Using the servo tester check for full and free movement of the servo to both ends of it's travel. And at the throttle end, adjust as necessary for free travel from fully open to fully closed Fit the prop, it's looking good so far. The silencer trial fitted, I'm going to need some silicone tube to keep the exhaust clag off the fus. Or I might bend up and fit some smaller OD ally tube for a custom job. Some 3mm hardened 35mm long set screws for axles were fitted along with the wheels to the undercarriage. The engine fitting job job so far. Today it's a bit of a tidy up in the shed, clean up any rough edges on the model, ready for the colour trim, when I've decided how I'm going to do it. To be honest I've gone off the idea of spraying, it's too messy and time consuming. I've considered dyeing some heavy weight rag tissue with cold water "Dylon" and using that for trim, but that can be even messier. Masking off and brushing looks more feasible the more I think about it, I just have to decide which paint to use, I will most likely go down the enamel route. Probably a trip to B&Q to see what they have, the LMS only had the small Humbrol type tins or the Revel acrylics for plastic kits yesterday. Any suggestions would be welcome. Cheers, Chris. Edited By Big Bandit on 08/01/2012 08:01:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W-O Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Looking very good Cleaning up the "rough edges" seems to take for ever, just when you think you are done, you see something not quite right! When using a piece of piano wire, bicycle spoke etc as a long drill, sometimes there is space to guide it with a piece of brass tube. Also, number plate nuts and bolts make very cheap and effective screws for under carriage or wings when they need short bolts. The nuts have a flange on them, so I just cut a rough hex in the ply and epoxy them in, with the flange at the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Solarlac paints are quite nice for brushing, they flow on well, brushmarks aren't a problem and they dry quite quickly. And they're fuelproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Steve, I have a few Slec or MFA nylon bolts and steel blind nuts hanging around so I might try those, I do like the idea though, it makes more sense than using laggy bands to hold a heavy undercart on. Another thought I had was some M4 titanium engine bolts that I had for the bike motor on lightly stressed area's, they break a lot easier than steel, yet another thought was the monkey metal bolts they sell these days at places like B&Q I think it's going to be a day fetling bits and finishing bit's off and pondering how I'm going to do the trim before I build the wings. And the missus has just told me I'm putting some pictures up in the living room. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Nice one Bob, I think Steve's models in Ashby sell those, I'll take a drive over there on Thursday and have a look at what they've got. Good excuse to get around all of the local shops as well, and make a day of it. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djay Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Chris. i built the 4 channel version last year, powered by a 26 year old OS 48 surpass. It flies lovely. i made mine bolt on wings as it is more practical. Rubber bands only last a few hours out here in Dubai, as the 50c temp and sunlight just destroys them. It is covered in Solartex as nylon and dope are not available out here. Also pictured is the Super 60 alongside my Majestic major built at the same time.. This is a far nicer flyer and hovers or goes backwards in a breeze, yet has plenty of power to toodle around in any weather, as you lay on your back watching it fly, hands off the t/x. The build is very satisfying as well. It originally had a Merco 60, but recently changed it to an ASP 52 four stroke for more versatility. I also built the Flair black magic to go wiith my vintage collection. Enjoy the flying. Darryl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Chris, I can't remember if you've already fuel proofed the exterior, iirc it'll need it as glofuel and dope don't mix too well, if that's the case why not use acrylic and a water based floor covering varnish as fuel proofer over the top? Test for suitability first though! The other thing, with dope it continues to evaporate the solvent constituents for lengthy periods (weeks iirc) and could cause the enamel based paints to wrinkle (don't know if your ancient treacle based dope will do similar though!). I think it used to be called doping out and involved sniffing the doped covering until you could no longer smell the solvents, then leaving it a further week if you wanted to paint with humbrol, didn't matter if you used coloured dopes though - which is another alternative for your trim and defo retro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi Djay, They look so good, as far as wing fixings I decided very early on to stay as close as is practical to the original Super 60 from the 60's as I could i.e nylon, dope, Merco motor. I just draw the line at Single Chanel and torque rods , although I do fancy a pop at 2.4 gig conversions mentioned in other threads providing I can get my hands on a suitable SC tranny case. 50 degrees C, it's been blowing gales over here and about to turn right monkeys. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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