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Conversion of vintage free flight kits to RC+electric


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I want to build a Vic Smeed/Ben Buckle kit (not decided which one yet) and noticed on some of the kit descriptions they show simple RC conversion. Are these kits generally suitable for converting to lightweight rc and powering with electric motor, can they accommodate esc and lipo?
 
Having looked on various forums some of these kits can be converted, but not neccessarily the ones I'm attracted to build. Some of them have stringers running the length of the fuselage and would therefore be difficult to alter.
 
My shortlist of models is:
Falcon Brigadier
Falcon Mamselle
Southerner 60
Diamond Demon
Quaker Flash
 
Your views appreciated.
 
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I think the answer Russ is yes, yes, yes & yes.....Vintage models fly beautifully on electric & I think if you put any of the models into the search box at the top it will throw up many discussions on the models in question.
 
Conversion is often down to the individual for that is so much of what this hobby is all about....changing things to suit your needs.
 
A couple of points that might be worth noting though.....
 
Often 9g servos will be sufficient for up to medium sized models...these are small & light.
 
You hear 100watts per lb bandied about as a suitable power to weight ratio for general flying....vintage models will fly on much less than this & I would suggest 70-80w/lb as being a good start point....possibly even less......the torque reaction from a powerful brushless motor can provide some "interesting" flying characteristics if the model is over-powered....
 
HTH....
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Hi Russ, there are a group of us just doing the "Vintage" thing, I am doing the Falcon Mam'selle and its a lovely kit, really nicely cut. I would bow to Steves knowledge on these smaller models as he has more experience, but they are not expensive so its not a huge outlay if it doesn't work as planned.
I am building mine to be diesel powered (for nostalgia) and will have RC assist for most ocassions, but for the Nats in August the RC will be disabled. Interestingly there is a section on RC assisted free flight in this months RCM&E. Some interesting guidelines to allow them to co-exist at events.....
 
Cheers
Danny
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Russ,
 
Further to Steve's comments;
 
Yes, yes and yes again! Vintage models just seem to want to fly, and on a minimum of power too (given their light wing loadings and inherent stability). I have several in my own hangar and can affirm that most ill cruise around on as little as, say, 30 watts/lb or so.


There's just a couple of points worth bearing in mind though;

Yes, you'll need to sort out battery access. Not usually a problem if you're happy to make up a hatch somewhere or other.

Most vintage models were designed with lots of wing incidence to provide maximum lift. Sticking a little motor up front is very like to result in a decided tendency to climb as the throttle (and therefore airspeed) is increased. So you could reduce the wing incidence by a degree or two, add some downthrust to the motor, or take the easy way out and mix some down elevator in with the throttle.

The origins of the design will also have a bearing on it's conversion to e-power. Rubber-powered models tended to have generous length in the nose, and aren't usually an issue.
 
However those that started out as ic-powered designs can often have very short noses indeed! It's possible to discreetly add an inch or so to the forward fuselage without having a lynch mob of purists baying for your blood. Moving the wing back a tad achieves the same end. Other than that you may find yourself fitting the battery as far forwards as possible (to reduce the amount of ballast you may need), which may have a knock-on effect on the battery hatch that you'll need to farbricate!
 
Hope this helps - let us know how you get on, will you?
 
tim
 
Here's the Super Scorpion with a very short nose crammed full of 12 subC Nimh cells. No point switching to lipo's here - I'd just have to add lots of lead as well!
 
 

Edited By Tim Hooper on 16/11/2011 16:02:01

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