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Art-Tech EF2000 on a slope


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Hi Steve,

Oh yes those Minima Rx's are great - tiny and lightweight. Yes I'll be using it with the E7Pro, I don't know of any reason why not - provided the in built Spectra module doesn't have an old firmware version that is and I've updated mine.

The E7Pro instructions don't actually tell you that you have a Spectra module with it's own firmware but it is so. Updating the built in module is done the same way as updating a removable Spectra module which I think you already have experience of.

Ian

Edited By Ian Jones on 13/11/2012 00:00:03

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Well that's encouraging Christian - I'd be interested to hear of any alternative suggestions you may have.

It's a shot in the dark for me to be honest. Yes I can fly power models, yes I can fly gliders, yes I've done some slope soaring and erm, converting power to PSS, well erm, no never done it.

However I agree, just having it sitting useless on the bench isn't going to achieve anything.

Options: bin it (waste!), sell it (what with the motor burnt out?) or do something worthwhile with it (and perhaps learn a bit thumbs up).

Of course if it works out then one of my worst ever purchases could get a different press altogether and I'll do my best to make that the case.

Some of my concerns are the sticky outy bits - canards, wing tip ordnance and the fragile nose cone. Still I suppose they can all be replaced wink 2.

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yeah, i must admit i was not impressed with my $70 purchase of this plane from HK, particulary when compared with the Vampire. To be honest, it did nothing to change my opinion of foam models.

First flight ended just after a hand launch with a nose plant, which squashed the fragile nose, broke off a canard and snapped the fuse at the battery tray just in front of the intake (taking off the plastic intake). After repairs it flew quite nicely, but was vastly underpowered.

She has sat in my workshop ever since. I even tried to fit a 70mm fan to run on 4S, but it would never fit properly and the %FA intake and outlets where too small. Dissappointingly, she sat in a dark corner, where i've comtemplated: turn into a pusher jet, refit a 4S 64mm EDF, chop into sections to create tempates for a balsa/lite ply own design version, or just bin it.

Your idea of PSS seems the smallest amount of work, so i think i might try it. if all else fails i could still just bin it, but would want to waste (i.e not time applied to other winter builds) hours creating a pig out of a boar.

I will watch your build log and sucess of the slopes for inspiration.

Chris

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I wanted to keep the undertray, it looked so useful but now I've realised that it's causing me more trouble than it's worth so it's out:

undertrayout1.jpg

That was easy enough as all that was holding it was some soft gooey glue, I'm glad to I didn't rely on that. Now I have lots of space to play with:

undertrayout2.jpg

A couple of bearers back and front and I'll be able to screw in whatever weight device I want and no depth restrictions. So that will be the next job.

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Posted by Mike Etheridge 1 on 12/11/2012 23:29:06:

Many years ago my nephew Nigel had the idea to remove the 20 engine from his 'Club 20 Racer' and replace it with an equivalent amount of lead. We then took the plane plus others to Devils Dyke in Sussex where my task was to launch the Club 20 Racer as hard as I could off the slope. The result was amazing the Club 20 Racer flew at a tremendous rate and could cover the length of the ridge in no time. It could roll also at a phenominal rate but refused to loop. This experience suggested to me that you could fly most planes 'off the slope'.

What happened to the 'club 20 Racers?

MJE


Hi Mike,

I think I misread your message first time around, just read it again, sorry about that. Yes it seems that suitably set up almost anything will do slope... will I get it suitably set up? We will find out sometime later smile.

Ian

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A little more progress

Front and rear bearers for the underplate have been fixed in place with epoxy:

rearunderplatebearer.jpg

An underplate made of ply with balsa cushions at each end will be screwed into the bearers and velcro on the inside will be used to hold ballast in place:

underplaterough.jpg

I don't trust velcro too much if there is any possibility of the object it is holding rocking around enough to tear away, so I've filled the fuselage with foam to pad and dampen any such effect:

foamfill.jpg

foamin.jpg

The underplate in position, pilot holes drilled and now it is ready for final finishing and fitting:

underplateinplace.jpg

Time for a think now. The underneath needs looking after and I still haven't decided on how to do that, CW tape or Plasti-Kote paint perhaps?

I will be fitting some wing skids close to the pushrods to offer some protection there.

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I was just about to buy some Plasti-Kote when I remembered I had some white that I hadn't finished, so I decided to do a test.

I sprayed into a plastic container then with a brush dabbed a little paint on

  1. pre-painted surface of the EF2000
  2. a block of polystyrene
  3. bare EF2000 foam

Test 1 looked okay so I proceeded to 2&3:

plasti-koteeffect1.jpg

plasti-koteeffect2.jpg

'nuff said !smile o.

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  • 1 month later...

Another step forward and another question

I've covered the underplate with silver solartrim and was going to use the same stuff over the top of cross weave tape on the underside. Then I thought where does the silver colour come from? Metal pigments in the colouring? Could that interfere with the internal antennas? Well I decided to ask and since this could affect lots of other models I've done so in another thread here.

I just mentioned cross weave tape which for those that don't know is very sticky tape reinforced with with fibre glass webbing and is often just referred to as CW tape. Very popular with slope soaring combat pilots because it offers tremendous protection to the airframe.

The foam on this EF2000 shows a mark if you look at it so it's chances in a less than perfect landing are not brilliant so a job for CW tape then.

cw pylons(1).jpg

That should protect it to some extent at least and it makes a valuable contribution to rigidity too.

What about those exposed servo arms and horns. Well I don't think I can hide them in the wing so the usual answer would be to mount them out of the way on top of the wing but bearing in mind that I'm trying to make a bit something out something not very good that's a lot of trouble to go to. So instead I've decided to add a little protection with some wing skids, erm I mean wing stores pylons smile.

cw pylons(3).jpg

So this means I have three jobs left before the maiden flight:

  1. Make and fit the wing tip stores (Not much point as they'll soon be off but it won't look right without them)
  2. Cover the CW tape with silver solartrim. Actually it doesn't look that bad as it is and since more work may be necessary and the issue of RF loss hasn't been resolved to my satisfaction - I'll be leaving that for the time being.
  3. Decide on the weight for the maiden flight and add it to the underplate so that it balances the model.

So No3 is the big question now, hmm dont know.

Original flying weight was 650 grammes and power off it didn't have a lot of penetration. I think a little more, 800 grammes perhaps...... anyone care to comment?

Edited By Ian Jones on 13/01/2013 13:53:11

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My Grippen had a low wing loading, and would stooge around very unjet like, until I added a half pound of church roof - then it got a bit of a shift on, so I would say, load it up and make sure you maiden in good lift ( lift, not just windspeed IYWIM Ian ).

Good luck and be sure to let us know how she goes

Edited By Tim Mackey on 13/01/2013 20:10:39

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Glad you mentioned that Tim because I have just been adding weight and at 2lbs it seemed pretty heavy. I think I will start about 1/4 lb lighter than that.

In any case I take your point on lift and I will be testing the air with something else first.

What about CG - any change from the norm recomended ?

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  • 7 months later...

IT FLEW ! teeth 2

The landing wasn't good though! Went to the big rock today, stuck an extra 40 grammes inside it and decided it was about time. Tim suggest a few practice launches back from the edge which went well but did highlight that I had too much control surface movement. SO after a few tweeks and a few more practice chucks we went to the edge of the Gt Orme and launched it into 20mph well as I said it flew but didn't penetrate very well. The wind pushed backwards and it floated down looked like it was going to harrier in so I decided to continue with it. However a few feet above the ground it tip stalled and hit the rock nose first.

The damage wasn't too bad, it'll certainly fix but is it worth it? Well it showed some promise so I thin it is. Tim has advised loading it with more weight and I think he's right - so that will be the next move.

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  • 2 years later...

Forgotten?

Not yet!

Another 7 ounces of lead added, 2.5 years on and a launch into around 20 mph again. A little twitchy but controllable, penetrating the wind okay.... but not soaring crook. It was a gentle downward glide but the landing was behind a small rise where I couldn't see exactly what happened.

Well once again, fixable. Next time a few ounces less lead and few more mph wind and who knows!

Ian

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This is very much an experiment with a model that would otherwise be useless anyway and it's great not to have the pressure of it being a disaster if doesn't work out. I expect that when you do yours it will be more slope worthy model, look forward to seeing it.

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Hoping it goes well for you Ian.

If anyone is interested in doing something similar on the cheep, FlyFly have a range of reasonably priced kits of a good size and a few of them come with (of all things) RG-14 airfoils.

**LINK**

**LINK**

**LINK**

**LINK**

I have the MB-339 in the build queue and got a pair of F-86 wings to go with a glass fuse I have. Some of those models also come in other schemes.

Here is John Pearson's Mig-29. IIRC he rebuilt the outer wing panels.

mig29.jpg

mig29a.jpg

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