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electrics help for a newb please


Del Wheatley
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Hi all
i'm in need of some advice regarding my motor/esc.i'll try to keep it simple for ya's.
i have a tornado thumper c2826 motor and an 0verlander 25a esc.
yesterday before i fitted the electrics i plugged everything together and although the motor didn't spin till half throttle was reached it span up like crazy .
today i fitted everything in the plane,hooked up the battery and noticed lots of bleeping that seemed to corespond to ok with the instructions i have.The prob is now the motor just vibrates left to right then cuts off until you return the throttle to 0%.Then it will vibrate again and cut off.
 
pleeeeese help
 
Del
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Hi Del,
If the motor starts at half throttle it could be that the esc needs 'calibrating'
with your transmitter. This is often done by powering up the motor & esc
with the tx throttle stick at full, and then reducing it to low after the esc beeps -
usually a couple of seconds.
I'm not familiar with your esc though so check the instructions.
The motor is powered up with the throttle stick at low for normal operation
of course - ie running, not programming.
 
I once cured a vibrating or 'oscillating' motor by changing the start-up mode
from 'soft' to 'hard' - or try altering the timing.
Do you have a programming card? - these can make these headaches a little
easier.
 
Hope this is of some use.
Cheers
 
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This should, hopefully, be quite straightforward, Del.
 
The motor needs to learn the throttle range of the Tx. First of all, remove the prop!
 
Make sure the Tx is off and the battery is disconnected.
 
Switch on the Tx and then move the throttle stick to fully open.
 
Connect the battery to the ESC. The motor should start bleeping.
 
Move the throttle stick to fully off. The bleeping should stop - there may then be either series of bleeps or just one or two.
 
The Tx should now control the motor over the full range.
 
(If you have a Futaba Tx, you may need to reverse the throttle movement in the Tx setup.)
 
If it is still stuttering, it may be that the ESC timing needs adjusting. It's much easier if you have a programming card for the ESC but if not, the instruction sheet supplied should allow you to set the parameters via the Tx.
 
Most outrunners run best on High timing.
 
Let us know how it goes!

Pete
 
Ah, Richard got there first - I must learn to type faster!!

Edited By Pete B on 08/12/2011 16:15:05

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If you are just getting oscillation of the motor shaft over a few degrees, check your connections between the motor and the ESC.
 
It sounds to me that you only have two live connections rather than three. This can lead to overheating of the ESC which would explain the ESC shutting down till you return to low throttle.
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morning guys
firstly thanks for the advice
just a small update,i've now tried all conections and have 3 good feeds right up to where the wires join the windings in the motor.
i have tried all the program settings in the esc and now the timing is advanced the motor sort of slowly turns while making a horrible sound and vibrating like crazy.
my only thought now is that the motor is faulty,poss one of the windings is u/s.
i am going to take all the gear to the shop and get some help,Got a feeling pluging a new motor in is going to cure it though.
 
 
On a plus note some newb lessons have been learnt
 
1,i now understand programing an esc
 
2,always make an engine mount that allows you to remove the motor...doh.
 
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just a small update for ya's.
Took the motor/esc/battery back to the shop that supplied it.
Now i have the feeling i'm being tucked up but we will wait to see the final outcome.
Apparently i've fried the motor by wiring it wrong,even though i phoned the shop to check how the wiring went before fitting.
Then to confuse matters when in the shop both guys thought it wired different ways.
When going back to the shop to find out the outcome i got 2 different stories as to what the prob was.
1,we dont know so are going to send the esc and motor back to manufacturer(from sales assistant)
2,i've melted all the windings in the motor and the conecting wires are burnt off(shop owner).The strange thing there is i stripped the motor before going to the shop and everything was conected and no sign of burning was present.i'm a time served mechanic so so know how to tell a burnt circuit from a good one.
so now i have to wait for a phone call to tell me when i can pick up my stuff and they can't tell me how long it will be.
I'll be looking for a new shop to use anyway after this is resolved as now i'm starting to understand whats what i've discovered they've hit me for £60 more than most other shops charge for a dx7s(after making a song and dance about how they were discounting it) and to clinch it i conducted a little test.i phoned around to buy a trainer and they wanted £109 for a kit that i got quoted between £70 and £80 every where else.
Thanks for listening.
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Del, if you wired the 3 motor wires up to the 3 wires coming out of the ESC you cannot have wired it up wrong, the only thing that could have happened is that the motor would have run backwards (ideal for a pusher). Sounds like the shop is not being very helpful or more probably doesn't know what they are talking about.
 
I've only had one faulty motor/ESC in my time and the shop (Slough Models) asked me to send both of them back so they could check which one was faulty and then sent out a replacement the next day.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well time for the final instalment
 
Got a call from the shop to say that my parts had come in from overlander and they have replaced the esc with a direct replacement and i have a different motor now a T2826/14 instead of the c2826 supplied before.
All is good now and thanks to A1 models colchester for sorting the problem.
Now it's time to see if the guillows 109 conversion works.
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