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Model Diesel


Chris Channon
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Well success at last  I added almost 1 extra part paraffin...so thats almost 2 parts paraffiin (i couldn't fit it all in the jar) 1 part ether and 1 part fully sinth motorbike 2 stroke oil.

However it may have run the other day without the second part of paraffin IF I hadn't forgotten how to get a diesel engine runnin...shall we just put that down to finger trouble  .  I'd also forgotten how sesitive they are to fuel tank position with having no tank pressure.

What a little cracker of an engine (once she's going) but what a racket!!!! Anyone know where I can get a silencer for a AM 15? I don't think I'll be allowed to run this at the flying club.

Rob, how will I know that my engine is running hot? She got through 2 oz of my home brew without complaining (seemed to run forever) what will it do if getting too hot?

Matt.

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Matt

One symptom will be the conversion of the engine into a paperweight with no moving parts!

More likely as the engine warms up it will sound harsh and over compressed, as you back off the compression it will go under compressed so you increase the compression and the whole cycle will start again.

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Matthew Kemp wrote (see)

Well success at last  I added almost 1 extra part paraffin...so thats almost 2 parts paraffiin (i couldn't fit it all in the jar) 1 part ether and 1 part fully sinth motorbike 2 stroke oil.

However it may have run the other day without the second part of paraffin IF I hadn't forgotten how to get a diesel engine runnin...shall we just put that down to finger trouble  .  I'd also forgotten how sesitive they are to fuel tank position with having no tank pressure.

What a little cracker of an engine (once she's going) but what a racket!!!! Anyone know where I can get a silencer for a AM 15? I don't think I'll be allowed to run this at the flying club.

Rob, how will I know that my engine is running hot? She got through 2 oz of my home brew without complaining (seemed to run forever) what will it do if getting too hot?

Matt.


Well done Matt! Richly deserved success  

Just run it a little on the rich side and the synthetic oil should take care of it. 

IMO the AM diesels should always run a bit rich if you don't want to wear 'em out, I've had a few AM15s in control liners (and one in a Sharface! ) and they are great motors, very light for their power output. The AM10 was even better, a really hot motor for its' day.

There was was a version of the 15 made with a muffler, but only for a short while after A-M stopped making them and they went to someone else whose name escapes me at the moment. If you use an 8 x 4 instead of a 7 x 6 you may get away with the noise.

Bert

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Doug Ireland wrote (see)
When I flew C/L years back it was common practice to have  two of the three pipes going into the fuel tank facing into the propwash, this helped to pressurise the tank a bit. 

I don't think it does much to pressurise the tank, but it certainly stops the slipstream pulling the fuel out. If you blow across the the end of an open tube it will pull the liquid up the tube, if you see what I mean
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  • 5 months later...
The mix we use here in oz is 20% castor oil
                                                     50% kerosine (jet a1 fuel)
                                                    30% ether
hope this is of help to you   
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You do need a few drops of Amyl nitrate or nitrite Just like petrol needs anti-knock additives .God knows where you can buy it these days (H&S and all that 'cos it is a heart stimulant ) The oz mixture would be OK with their quality  castor oil -Here i would start with a  30/30/30/ mix plus the additive & then gradually increase the paraffin ( sorry Kerosene ) content 'til it doesn't run right .
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I looked up the formula for D1000 and it is as follows:-
 
Ether                       35%
Kerosene               35%
Castor oil                28%
Isopropyl Nitrate    2%
 
Rather nice of them to publish the recipe I'll be using this next time I mix up a batch...all I need to do is build a model to fit the motor too.
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