my TN Typhoon

[Djay]

Just finished building my Typhoon and thought I would share a few details with you.

powered by an RCV 91 which fits inside the cowling a treat.

Cheap mechanical retracts from an unknown ARTF, fitted with lightweight sponge wheels,, which work perfectly.

Covered in fibreglass and poly C. painted with aerosol cans as no spray equipment available to me here, fuel proofed with polyurethane varnish spray.

Decals printed onto vinly sheet and cut out.

Weight 8.8lbs..

It flies like a dream.

Take offs are so easy with the thick wing generating plenty of lift, all aspects of flight are very good, no stall, just a mush, and landings are a delight, it just floats in nice and slow and gentle.

I had to mix in up elevator with the gear, as it drops its nose a lot when gear is selected down.

Darryl

[Djay]

some flight pics, and landing.

[Alan Cantwell]

That looks sweet, the weight is good too, Tiffys have a habit of needed much ballast up front, did you lighten the rear end construction? or where you just V carefull with gear placement

[Djay]

Hello Alan.

lightened it as much as I could at the rear.

Any solid parts were hollowed out, but it still has a huge chunk of lead in the nose, even with the heavy RCV engine.

I was surprised at the weight actually, as I expected mid to high 7lb.

But it flies superb, and on the second flight was chasing around with the other ARTF warbirds and holding my own. Very comfortable plane to fly.

I have built the 72 inch Lanc, Lysander, Tiffy and just starting the Hurricane.

All fly very well.

Darryl

[Alan Cantwell]

several years ago, mate of mine bought a superb Tiff at a swapmeet, light as a feather--but all the feathers where down the rear!! i think it was a bryant plan, he sold it on when he started putting copious amounts of the heavy stuff up front, mate of mine bought it, and it flew superb, our YT ones are known, at 72"span, to come out at 20pound !!! and they too fly superb, whats next? rockets and guns? dont forget, if the Tiff lands with rockets, it looks daft, they never brought them home,

[Craig Ward]

That's a nice Tiffie! I knew if this Tiffie was kept around 8 pounds she'd fly great. If I do this one I'm going to put flaps on it too. I've got Brian Taylor's plans for the Hurri and the Typhoon, plus others, but man they can get expensive to build, fly and crash! I'm more sport scale too. When I do the Tiffie it will be for electric power. What were the retract angle on yours? I have some MAP retracts and was wondering what angles they need to be.

Craig

[Djay]

Hello Craig.

The retracts are just 90 degree cheap mechanical units. You have to fit them at an angle to the mounting rails as they angle forward a lot, this means that when they retract the wheel has to go into an oval shaped hole. make sure you build the retracts in before you sheet the centre section and ensure it all works 100%. I left the units and the servo in all the time during the wing build.

You will not need flaps with this model, it comes in so slowly, with nose slightly up, just maintain enough throttle and it will not stall but land nicely. Get an electric motor equivalent to a 90 fs and this will provide plenty of urge, just open the throttle very slowly on take off to prevent ground loops and torque roll.

Had a disaster with the Tiffie last night, came home from work and found 6 of my planes on the floor where they had fallen of the shelf. One must have moved and caused them all to fall.

Tiffie had a big hole punched in the side and the r/h stab torn out of the fuse and one engine mount beam broken. So had a late night last night repairing it, just need to prime and paint it tonite and hopefully it will all be ok for this coming weekend.

I had to scrap my WM Tucano as it was badly broken (was on its last legs anyway), my Hannibal had the R/H stab broken off, my House of Balsa Cheepass seaplane had the engine mounts broken off and rudder snapped ( all fixed now), and my H9 spit had the bulkhead pulled out (all fixed, thank god for ARTF lack of glue)

Luckily my TN Lysander survived with no damage.

As my wife pointed out, no need to build another model as you have those to repair.

Darryl.

[Craig Ward]

Ouch! I hate hangar damage more than I hate flight damage!

You could still tell your wife you need to build a new plane to help ease you out of the depression caused by so much damage.

[A.A. Barry]

Craig, did you build it using the cnc wood kit??, I am scratch builing from the plan and am just starting mine, the wing seat doubler is not clearly shown on the plan, or of as a seperate drawing, any idea's???

Thanks

Barry

[Craig Ward]

Me thinks you've got me mixed up with the one who built this. I haven't built mine yet.

[Djay]

Hello Barry.

I am using the plan from Tony Nijhuis, not the plan from the magazine.

The doubler goes from the firewall back to F3 just above the wing.

On my plan if you look at F3 there is a dotted line about 1 1/2 inches up from the wing, just above the wing bolt retention plate. on my plan the dotted line is just below the designation F3 at the former, and just above the wording "3mm lite ply wing seat doubler"

The dotted line is the top of the doubler, the bottom follows the contour of the wing and curves around to the top of the wing dowel location area.

There is a slot cut in it for the wing bolt retention plate.

Hope this may be of use.

Darryl

[A.A. Barry]

Darryl, yep got that plan as well, it is not very defined that piece, but yea, I see it all now, thanks a heap for your help.

Barry

Edited By A.A. Barry on 09/07/2012 12:40:55

[john powles]

Hi. just got around to start building mine & you know what RCM&E have done it again got plan pack & that ruddy plan is to small -only 58" span checked the mag one & it is also 58 " span also . this is not the first time this has happend to me I also bought a plan pack for the 72" Dacota which turn out to be only 68.5 " span it has now cost me over £ 25 .00 or mre to get the plans corrected to the right size.s not a good start .John powles

[Craig Ward]

I think I'll just stick to buying the plans from Tony himself!

[gillyg1]

Djay been thinking of this one for a while, only asked the question some time ago now, has anyone built an ic version, well you've just answered my question, only just found your review, was it the rcv 90 sp or the rcv90 cd engine, as looking at your photos I can't see any engine, looks leccy. 2nd point I'd like too ask you, see you've built a few TN models, as TN doesn't use washout do you incur any problems regarding tip stalling ????

Cheers Graham

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Djay]

Hi Graham.

it is fitted with the RCV 91 CD engine.

You have to cut a hole in the firewall for the carb to pass through, and then box in the hole from behind.

This then means you have to cut a recess in the wing L/E where it hits against the box.

easily done before covering the wing, just reinforce the L/E area.

The engine has a 90 degree exhaust knuckle from Just Engines fitted which allows the standard exhaust to fit pointing straight down (engine is inverted)

Glow access is easy as it is side mounted.

The Tiffy flies absolutaley superb and sounds superb with this engine, plenty of power.

Overall the plane is a winner with its thick wing, so slows right down for landings.

Needs a lot of lead in the nose, but make it so it fits over the top of the engine mount and uses the engine mounting bolts to hold it in place, this way it is as far forward as you can get it, so need less of it. Cooling is not an isue either, even in 50c heat.

Recently fitted the e-flite 120 size electric retracts and tese work fine.

I also have the TN Hurricane with the RCV 91 fitted, and this flies as well.

All TN's models fly straight of the draawing board so washout not required, never yet tip stalled any of the 5 models I have built from his plans, remember with a awarbird you do not yank and bank, but fly nice smooth turns which look better and help prevent tip stalling if enough speed.

Build and enjoy.

Darryl

[gillyg1]

Hi Darryl

Thanks for replying with all the info, you've answered all my questions regarding mounting, and exhaust, issues and the retracts used. that's made up my mind as to my next project, when I've finished off my LA7 ( warbird replicas, small one, then there's my BT Kingfisher with a RCV 58)

Cheers Graham.

[A.A. Barry]

WEll mine flew great, even with the large amount of lead bolted onto of the engine mount, an OS FS70 was not strong enough, so I replaced it with a Saito 100, heaps better, one reason for the extra weight was I chose to make the tailplane removable, for transport, I used 3/32 on the rear of the Fuz sheeting, but even this was not enough to offset the bits for the tailplane mods, at the time I was staying at a mates place and all that was available was house paint, which turned out fine, but again too heavy..... SO ... all of those wishing to build one , KEEP the rear end light, use the lightest possible balsa ya can get. Stuff everything ya can forward of the C/G

I fitted cheap mechanical retracts, but oh what a bother that was, I eventually sub'd them out for H/K electric ones ...so much better

Cheers all

A.A. Barry

[john powles]

Well I finally finished my Typhoon & as you may expect I've had to build a lead mine into the front cowling ,it is now up to 8.5Lb total with batts & its still not right on the C of G- the cowling now alone weighs 1.5Lb . has anybody else had this problem -I'm now wondering whether it will get of the ground at all --- looking for further mining rights to a lead mine. John Powles

[A.A. Barry]

John, it's great to see a model finished, and yes I had the same problem, I ended up with screwing lead on top of the engine mounts, I just kept adding lead until it balanced, roughly 3lbs with an OS FS70. It would not get of the ground, so I put a Saito 100 in it, then it flew. and took 1/2 lb out

After thinking about it I decided that it was too much filler and the use of "house paint", the removable stabilzers didn't help either, I flew it twice and now hangs up in one of my rooms, it will be sold

I never weighted the final outcome.... too scared

Good luck

Barry

Edited By A.A. Barry on 01/10/2014 19:36:28

[Jeff Langley]

Hi Guys, Rather a shot in the dark here. Does anyone have the "Special" edition mag. in which Tony's Typhoon appeared as a free plan & write up? I'm hoping to get the whole deal to have all the necessary together as a first warbird project.

Unsure as to oily hand or lecky, would appreciate comment/advice in that area, & also suitability of the new(ish) electric retract kits.

Thanks a lot.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Jeff, I can't say for certain but I think it's this Typhoon plan that was printed under-size in the mag. Just something to bear in mind.

[john powles]

Hi Chris. the plan in the mag is under size by about 5% I know because I had mine reprinted to get it to the correct dimensions, I also contacted Tony N & he verified my corrections .I also built the model to & it requires a lot of lead in the nose to get the C of G right I put in over 1lb & its still not enough.

[Djay]

All the build details and a copy of the RCME write up are on Tony's website. Also recommend you purchase the plan from him as it is on decent paper and clearer to read and work from.

Mine is still flying well, a bit oily and dirty but more authentic. Retrofitted with e-flite 1.20 size electric retracts now.

Darryl