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2013 Mass Build - general chat thread


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Thanks for the info Nigel & Tim.

Maybe a new engine bulkead for rear mounting motor could also take a modified front noseleg? Then a hole in F2 for a single 3S2200 to project through? I think I would use 1/8 liteply for F2 if a hole is cut through. Best of both worlds if an option of 1 or 2 packs of 3S 2200 could be used. ( or even use 1 projecting thro F2 and another Lipo not actually thro F2 to help adjust CG. )

Perhaps the Mods should transfer todays Tucano discussion to a new thread to keep all the important details together?

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KC,

I think that would work, I attach a pic of my F2, this is in the normal poistion, but lightply with a hole to pass the motor thruogh, as I dispensed with the front hatch.

If your going with a firewall mounted motor, that wil act a suitable bulkhead, you could probably dispense with F2 as a bulkhead and put just a strip accross the top to space the fuse sides and act as something to bond the front top part of the fusetuc f1_2.jpg

 

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 02/11/2012 16:08:34

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Hi there

Well I have ordered my plan and canopy set and now thinking to a decent electric powertrain.

If I use the higher end of the quoted weight range (56oz) I guess I am looking for something like a 550W motor to give 150W per lb. Perhaps 500W if I build lighter (unlikely as it's my first balsa build)

Can anbody suggest a good (not too expensive) motor?

I have looked at the Prop-drive 35-36A 1400kv/550w

Is there something better?

Cheers
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Unless you require unlimited vertical performance, 400 watts is plenty for this model even at its upper weight limit, which was in its day dictated by the heavy Nicads.

Of course fitting a 550-watt set-up then propping down to 400-ish watts would be a good compromise, with another 150 watts available at the change of a prop if you ever needed it!

It's a clean and slippery shape, so its power requirement isn't greedy.

Let us know what set-up you choose!

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Thanks Nigel, I appreciate your reply.

I think more power is better and like you say there is the option to prop down a bit and know there is some reserve.

I was also looking at the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 35-36 1400kv 590W, this is what the E2K competition planes use (I think).

It looks like I am looking at about the right setup, I will post on here when I have made my mind up!
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One possibility I'm looking at is this purple beast from GS I've had one before and they are smooth and quiet and will take a 4s if you really want to up the power but on a 3s with a 9x5 they should provide all the power the tucano needs my only question is will a 42mm motor fit in the cowl guess that will be answered when my plans arrive lol

link to motor

Phil

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Hi Phil

The previously mentioned AXI 2820 and Overlander 3536 are about 35mm diameter and 1400kv so I have been looking for something in a similar size. I am not sure if a 42mm motor is too big.

I guess there are a few of us waiting for plans to arrive!

How about a new thread just dedicated to the technical setup/ parts spec for this model?
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A 42mm can motor would probably fit, but without modification, a 42mm outrunner would have very little clearance.

Also in my experience this model goes best with the largest practical prop. 12" minimum, my best one used a 14 x 6.

They just seem to give the model much more buoyancy and authority, with the added advantage of it looking much more scale in flight, with the black blades and white outer tip markers very visible.

Just my opinion!

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and valuable your opinion is Nigel.

I would point out that if that motor will fit it could on 3s take from experience an 11 x 3.5 prop which would produce something around the 490w as to the best of my knowledge this motor runs this size at something less than the advertised 550w for some reason Also it could well, being a heavy motor ,help with the CoG issue caused by going with the lighter LiPo's

Phil (looking for an alternative already lol)

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Oops - yes the undercarriage equipped version will have a limited prop choice.

Personally I hate to see scale-ish models with fixed down undercarriage so all mine were belly land versions except for the one I developed especially for the undercarriage squad.

As someone poited out earlier in this thread, you'd probably need a built-up wing for retracts, which sort of goes away from the ethos of the design!

However I'm sure someone will try it, and it will be interesting to see how a built-up wing compares to the flat sheet wing in all-round fligt characteristics.

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Using the AXI 2820/10 motor as a base line for comparison, the original design used this motor and is the one fitted in my motor.

The AXI 2820/10 a 1200 kv motor typically used a 11x7 prop and 10 cell Nimh pack, running modern 3s lipos found that 11x7 was probably pushing the limits of the motor and settled on 11x5.5 at around 380 watts.

In my opinion 3542 motor is a very near equivilent in size and weight 35 dia, 150 - 160 gm weight and can be obtained cheaply in a wide range of KV options. One has to remember that 10 cell pack weighed in at a wooping 470gm or so, my 3000mah LIPo is only 250gm or so, and a 2200mah Lipo 200gm or thereabouts.

I have taken a decision with my new build Tucano to go with a lighter 3536 motor only 110gm, probably a 1000kv version so I can resonably large 11 inch props and probably a near similar output to the old AXI, we will see

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I have had a look at a few motor options and I cannot decide.... help!

I cannot decide between the 35-42A 1250kv and try with a 10x7 or 11x5.5 prop

or the 35-48A 1100kv with 12x6 or 11x5.5 prop - has a stronger? 5mm shaft.

or the 35-36A 1400kv with a 9x6 or 10x5 prop

I know they are all "about the same" with the above prop combos and will all give over 400W at full throttle but I probably want to start off using an undercarriage and don't want to buy multiple motors to try different setups.

I am thinking that the 35-48A 1100kv might be the one to go for especially as it has a thicker 5mm shaft and my "landings" tend to be a bit heavy....

Ahhhh crook

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I am very interested to see the joint wisdom on which motor to get, also I am about to place shipping order of replacement parts due to a couple of "unintended" arrivals and I am wondering which servos I should get. I see that they should be mini servos but the choice then is bewildering.

Should I be looking for any other additional hardware? I have an RX and ESC waiting.

Just in case any one is not sure, yes I am one of the beginners who will be sucking in all the help and information possible.

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I am by no means an expert LOL but it is fairly quiet on here at the moment so I have jumped along and ordered some parts for the build...

Because I want to start off with an undercarriage fitted I have decided on the NTM Prop drive 35-42A 1250kv and I am going to try a 10x7 prop for a reported full throttle 46A and 500Watts. This is probably a bit over the top but should fly nice at half throttle or I can always fit a smaller prop to tame things down.

 
I am going to double up 2x 2200 3S Lipo's with a parallell cable rather than buy bigger flight packs ( to start with)
 
I have also ordered a Turnigy Plush 60A ESC and a yellow 51mm spinner with alu back plate. I am going for the black and yellow colour scheme.
 
This cost £43.08 including shipping from Hobbyking UK.
 
I have still got to order wood, glue, covering, wheels, hardware, receiver (going to try a Spektrum AR400 in this model).... and some basic tools.
 
Yikes - this is going to be quite expensive!

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 07/11/2012 11:54:51

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Colin -

Launching really isn't an issue.

My favourite method is an underarm lob. You can hold the model from just below the canopy, bang on the Centre of Gravity, and on full power you can lob it about 30 degrees nose high with no worries of a violent flick or torque reaction - another advantage of a flat sheet wing.

It may sound daunting but believe me it is so easy and reliable and only takes one successful launch this way to convince you!

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Posted by Ian Jones on 08/11/2012 16:44:31:

I can't find my original plans face 14.

Looks like I will have to buy them again or will they be included in the CNC kit?

Is there likely to be a CNC wood pack then, I know it was suggested earlier but thought the concensious was that it would be pretty pointless

Phil

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Phil....

Posted by David Ashby - RCME on 31/10/2012 08:04:30:

Yep, just to clarify what BEB mentioned - I've spoken to our retail plans service people and they're happy to offer a discount on plans and canopies. I'll let you know what that's goes live.

I've also put the wheels in motion to get a cnc/laser parts pack into production - that'll take a couple of weeks before it goes on sale but I'll let everyone know just as soon as....

Unless something has changed and I have missed it.

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I have just received my plans and canopy. At first glance there appears to be an error on the fuselarge drawing, the trianges to show the main side outline appear to be on the wrong line just aft of the cockpit(F3/F5). To cut to this line would need a sheet of wood larger than 4inches. Or have I missed something.

Tony

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