Delta Foxtrot Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/12/2012 19:24:32: Hi David, It is not trim but just narrow strips of Profilm ironed on with a very cool iron otherwise the canopy will be distorted. Don`t ask me how I know this! Sticky Protrim would be much easier but the cost would be even further through the roof. These lines are not very scale-like and have been enlarged a bit just to emphasise them. I used Profilm only because the rest of the model is done in this and not much else will stick to it. Thanks Martin, Did you iron this on the inside of the canopy ? I may be asking the obvious but it is more than 27 years since I made my last model, but I am enjoying making this one. I have most of the airframe made and I am thinking ahead to the covering stage. The last model I made was a control line model. In the early eighties. I taught myself to fly rc this year, joined a club and passed my a cert using some of Chris foss's excellent foam artf models, but I am keen to learn to build to a good standard . regards david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Hi David, Please see my earlier post today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Posted by david fillingham 1 on 31/12/2012 22:25:03: Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/12/2012 19:24:32: Hi David, It is not trim but just narrow strips of Profilm ironed on with a very cool iron otherwise the canopy will be distorted. Don`t ask me how I know this! Sticky Protrim would be much easier but the cost would be even further through the roof. These lines are not very scale-like and have been enlarged a bit just to emphasise them. I used Profilm only because the rest of the model is done in this and not much else will stick to it. Thanks Martin, Did you iron this on the inside of the canopy ? I may be asking the obvious but it is more than 27 years since I made my last model, but I am enjoying making this one. I have most of the airframe made and I am thinking ahead to the covering stage. The last model I made was a control line model. In the early eighties. I taught myself to fly rc this year, joined a club and passed my a cert using some of Chris foss's excellent foam artf models, but I am keen to learn to build to a good standard . regards david Sorry, I can see that you have explained this in your reply to mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Posted by david fillingham 1 on 31/12/2012 22:25:03: Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/12/2012 19:24:32: Hi David, It is not trim but just narrow strips of Profilm ironed on with a very cool iron otherwise the canopy will be distorted. Don`t ask me how I know this! Sticky Protrim would be much easier but the cost would be even further through the roof. These lines are not very scale-like and have been enlarged a bit just to emphasise them. I used Profilm only because the rest of the model is done in this and not much else will stick to it. Thanks Martin, Did you iron this on the inside of the canopy ? I may be asking the obvious but it is more than 27 years since I made my last model, but I am enjoying making this one. I have most of the airframe made and I am thinking ahead to the covering stage. The last model I made was a control line model. In the early eighties. I taught myself to fly rc this year, joined a club and passed my a cert using some of Chris foss's excellent foam artf models, but I am keen to learn to build to a good standard . regards david Sorry, I can see that you have explained this in your reply to mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Posted by david fillingham 1 on 31/12/2012 22:25:03: Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/12/2012 19:24:32: Hi David, It is not trim but just narrow strips of Profilm ironed on with a very cool iron otherwise the canopy will be distorted. Don`t ask me how I know this! Sticky Protrim would be much easier but the cost would be even further through the roof. These lines are not very scale-like and have been enlarged a bit just to emphasise them. I used Profilm only because the rest of the model is done in this and not much else will stick to it. Thanks Martin, Did you iron this on the inside of the canopy ? I may be asking the obvious but it is more than 27 years since I made my last model, but I am enjoying making this one. I have most of the airframe made and I am thinking ahead to the covering stage. The last model I made was a control line model. In the early eighties. I taught myself to fly rc this year, joined a club and passed my a cert using some of Chris foss's excellent foam artf models, but I am keen to learn to build to a good standard . regards david Sorry, I can see that you have explained this in your reply to mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Hi, well today is the "official" (as far as anything's official with the Mass Build!) start date - best of luck everyone - let's see those build blogs start to multiply! For the benefit of any newbies or those that haven't been involved before I've put up a "beginners guide" and a brief history of the Mass Build Projects here as a sort of FAQ's. Remember - its never too late to join in. Just add your name to the sign up thread here and off you go! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 The Tucano isn't on my build list this year, I'm afraid - but here's some inspiration for those taking part! What would I give to be in their boots?....... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Can anyone recommend what to use as a lightweight filler for filling gaps etc? Thanks David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I can recommend Red Devil "OneTime" which I buy from Mike's Models in Birmingham. It's extremely light and sands easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 What a great video Pete, I wish I could have a go in one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Colin, what sort of filler is it? Water based, cellulose, resin? How long does it take to set? I tend to use a home made version of what was once commercially available from fairing compound and polyester resin but it is not suitable for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I want to know about that airbrake which appears to extend just before the gear is operated. To deflect airflow from the u/c doors to allow operation maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Martin. I think it's water based, it's not cellulose or resin. In texture it's just like an extremely light Polyfilla and dead easy to use. When set it's probably lighter than balsa. "Don't apply at temperatures below 10C, - - - - store above freezing, - - - -can be painted within 10 minutes with water based paints". I find that the best thing is to use sanding sealer when it is dry to seal the very porous surface if painting with cellulose paints, although if you are doping and tissue covering you can go straight ahead. It's the most suitable filler that I've found for use with balsa wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I use this stuff as filler.....works well is light & sandable..... Polyfilla also do a similar product in your local B&Q but its about twice the price......if you pick up the tub & think its empty then you've got the right stuff.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dorrell Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Hi, I use Deluxe balsa Model Lite. It's good for me. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Hi, I use Deluxe Model Lite too. Remember to give it a good stir with a drop of water before each use. About to start on the wing panels but I have found a 2mm discrepancy in the wood stock re the drawing! Are you all going to check the weights of wood before gluing the parts together? I am going to use fix-o-fix contact adhesive on the doublers. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I have just bought some of the stuff from Screwfix which on a test piece sticks to balsa very well and seems to sand OK. Much better than many I have tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Of course I'm sure that none of really needs any filler due to building "mistakes" but there are those times when some "irregularity in the grain" sneaks in causing an unsightly gap.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 What we all need is a design for a sanding jig so when we use the Permagrit we can guarantee the finished result is 'square' Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Can anybody confirm the undercarriage wire size? the drawing says 10g (1/8" dia) but the drawn dia shown is a lot less!!. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 HiI have bought 10SWG wire (about 3mm) for the UC. On the plan it measures roughly 2.5mm which happens to be about 10AWGPerhaps it is just a mistake on the plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I like Steve Hargreaves' kindly observation about filler, with my building competence it's an essential! Lightness is an absolute necessity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Its 10 swg, 3.2mm on mine and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 All Thanks for the filler advice David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 @ Pete B : nice video. A shame that the Tucano isn't a bit bigger - so we could fit retracts. OK - I know there will be the exception - but the majority will have gear out at all time... I think 3 or 3.2mm wire will be ok - otherwise you have to correct the gear after every bumpy landing. Sorry - I forgot that this isn't happening in our community VA Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 03/01/2013 21:29:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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