Martyn K Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Thanks Chris, that makes (at least) 3 of us Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 I'm interested in a short kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 I have a considerable amount of overtime pay due soon that will need investing, better in balsa than something useless like gold. An SC32 has also been set aside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 My overtime went on Christmas pressies... I have an SC25 set aside... I am now waiting for the master set of wing ribs to come back so that I can start on the wing.. rActive - the short kit at the moment is limited to the wing and tail ribs only.. The cutter can't manage 6mm ply (3mm ply is his max limit) and the other 3 formers and the boxed in tank woodwork are all lite ply which is easy to cut.. I am not convinced (although I am happy to have a debate) that there is a lot of benefit getting the 4 formers laser cut (the firewall would have to be laminated from 2 x 3mm birch ply).. Regards Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 I have made a bit more progress over the past few evenings.. The addition of the top deck and trial fit of the fin... (the missing photo from above) The deck was roughly planed and sanded to shape then the fin was glued in place. 1/8" balsa was inlaid into the gap around the tailplane LE - it was somewhat easier than I thought it was going to be. The fin is glued in place - checking it is vertical, the clamps hold it all together nice and firmly. Finish the sanding after the fin is in place because the clamps will leave marks on the soft wood. Back on the bench, finishing off sanding the upper decking to a nice silky soft feel The pattern on the cockpit floor was caused because it was a fraction high after I finished fitting the tank and I had to sand the thickness of one ply veneer to get it right... This shows the direction of the grain in the fin. 2 pieces of wood are used - it should be light and warp free. This fin is much simpler than the original which had a built up pyramidial shaped fin - quite thick at the base. More to come (I am still sanding the fus...) -- Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Poulton Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 looking great. brand new asp 25 awaiting patiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 Hi Chris get it bench run in while you are waiting... I was working on the plans last night. Hopefully get the next iteration released in the next few days. Thay are pretty much finalised now. Regards Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 Very litle progress on the model since Thursday.. however, the plans are now just about ready to actually build from. (Version 5) They should print OK on A0, but I haven't actually tested the printing yet! Caveat Emptor! Download here -- Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 A quick update. I have been in discussion with the cutter and my set of wing ribs will hopefully be with me on Monday If all OK, I'll post the details here so you can get your orders in.. Regarding the build, I am just planning the radio installation. Despite the fuselage being 40" long, its a tight fit - even with MG mini servos. Regards Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 The full size versions needed a bit of care when it came to installation so I don't doubt it's tight. MG16s would be my choice but even then the sero arms can get in each other's way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 As indicated, a bit of progress in the past week. Things have slowed down slightly as I have started to build an AcroWot in parallel with this and next week I'll possibly start the Tucano... I am fitting two servos at the front end, one for the throttle and one for the steerable nose wheel.The servos are mounted at the front (to the left of the picture) to the base of the fuel tank floor, reinforced with a strip of 1/8" ply so that the screws have got something to bite into. The front bearer is a strip of 1/4" square spruce. Quite ticky to get it in place, you need to assemble the bearer and servos before you glue the bearer into place. Just don't ask me to remove it in a hurry.. The slightly out of focus main servo tray is made from 3mm liteply with 1/8" birch ply 'beams' running across the fuselage for servo screws to locate into. This will hold 2 servos,I have made the slots extra wide to allow me a bit of leeway when I get down to the installation, the servos will actually be located in tandem. The tray is glued to 1/4" square spruce rails which are then glued as an assembly to the 1/32" ply sides. Which brings me back to the engine mounting.. The long engine mount has been tapered. I haven't cut it short as I intend to us the mount bearers to locate the cowling. A first fit of the engine. I have had to trim about 1/16" off the corner of the fuselage to get the silencer to fit. It will be unnoticable when completed. And another shot Finally, an old spinner (1 3/4" and prop fitted. These will be used while I build up the wood around the cowl area and sand it all down to fit.. Which is where I am tonight. It's very cold out there but still got a good hour and a half work done. More to come... Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 30, 2012 Author Share Posted November 30, 2012 <snip from above post 29/11/2012 22:24:46> The front bearer is a strip of 1/4" square spruce. Quite ticky to get it in place, you need to assemble the bearer and servos before you glue the bearer into place. Just don't ask me to remove it in a hurry.. That should have read "The rear bearer is a strip of 1/4" square spruce." Sorry for any confusion.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 I know in our shed it was freezing (literally!) so I could not get much done this week- Nice job on the Curare, it is very tight! Even tighter than my Funfly which has a very slim fuselage and mid wing meaning a tight fit, but not as tight as that! My Domino will be a breeze though, plenty of space! As long as it is neat (which it looks) it will be fine! Keep up the good work (and I'll try and brave the elements!) I must admit I do like that Astro Hog 25, is that still going well? CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 Hi CS The AstroHog 25 went through a rather drastic modification when I flew it through a tree absolutely flat out. I 'lost' about 300mm of each wing tip. Those bits were quite literally actually lost although I did find the curved tip sections. The tailplane was smashed as well as the upper decking on the fus. I was absolutely gutted, it was a fantastic flyer - far better than the full size. Personally, I blame the woman driver... It is repairable, but needs a new wing. While I have been waiting for glue to dry this last week I have been cutting out wing ribs.... it will fly again. Also bought a s/h OS25LA to fit in it (lighter than the SC25 so I can take some weight out of the tail). The SC is going into the Curare. Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 01/12/2012 10:33:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Sorry to hear that, I very nearly hit a tree with my Funfly a few months ago, I was very lucky... That Astro Hog is very nice, I think it looks better than the full size because of less dihedral. I am impressed how you can build in this cold, it was -2 in my shed last night! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 I have a oil storage heater which is running full time (on a low setting). This prevents the temp dropping below freezing, but doesn't really heat the shed. I also have a ceramic heater (3 x 400W) on the bench which I turn on about 30 minutes before I venture in there to do any work. I wear normal clothes plus a thermal warehouse jacket that sems to keep me warm enough. Planet Rock on the radio and I am generally a happy contented chappy -- Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 01/12/2012 11:08:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Hi Martyn I just spotted this kit available in Germany. 40.5" span, GRP Fus and Cowl, and "sheeted" wings whatever that means. It's for a 2.5 to 3.5cc engine. So a little bit smaller than yours. I bet yours still comes out lighter though. Curare 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Hi Chris I haven't seen that one before and TBH I think that it has lost a little of the Curare elegance at the front end. I can safely say that because I have been hacking balsa off the front end of mine to blend a squarish fuselage down to a 1/75" diameter circle to match the spinner. It is starting to look quite nice now. The next problem will be the canopy, I want to replicate the 'bubble' canopy of the original which I think will mean moulding my own... Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 martyn, have a word with Vortex, the canopy people, I've found them very helpful in the past. Maybe if you send them a sketch of what you want with dimensions they can come up with something suitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thanks Bob, I'll see what they have got, if nothing suitable, I'll have a crack at making a plug and moulding my own. The good news is that the Wing and Tail ribs came back from Green Air Designs today. The cut is so clean - far better than I could have managed with a modelling knife. I settled for 3/32" balsa sheet, they look superb, I'll be starting on the wing shortly. If you want a set, contact Green Air Designs JET-SALES [[email protected]], quoting my name (Martyn Kinder and the layout - Curare25). I paid £12.50 for the master set but apparently subsequent sets will be cheaper. -- Anyway - back to the fuselage. The side and upper sheet arond the engine is a doddle compared with the lower block. The problem is the steering linkage and the throttle linkage. This rather scruffy looking shot shows both linkages in situ. Especially scruffy as I had to get to the nyloc nuts holding the engine in place. I have used 18swg wire to get from the servo to the nosewheel and carb with suitable bends to get them round the various objects. One thing I forgot to mention above was don't forget to fuel proof the pieces before you glue them in.. Then clean up the scruffy bit with new wood.. and start carving the lower piece. When you get it just about right, you will need to carve out the inside edge to allow for the linkage to move freely.. Note the glue already in place, I thought I had better capture this shot before it got hidden for ever.. Finally, everything in place and clamped up while the glue dries. There is also a 1/16" ply nose ring at the front - the bands hold it in place. The last small piece to be fitted will go around the front of the carb. Hopefully get that bit finished next time I am in the shed and then I can get on with the wing. More to come Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 The front end of the fuselage is now completed and I have to admit I am quite pleased with it. So pleased in fact that I forgot to take a photo! However, I have made a start on the wing. Despite having building tabs cut, I chose to use them rather unconventionally, I effectively built the panels upside down. I prefer to build from a spar and work outwards, Spar, TE then LE. The tabs were used to check alignment with a pair of straight edges. In the photo below, the upper spar is just pushed into place to hold the ribs in alignment while the glue dries. Spars are 1/4" square medium hard balsa, the LE and TE are tapered and cut from 1/4" sheet medium balsa. Two panels made - for once it doesn't matter if you build 2 left panels, (I didn't though) as the wing section is symmetrical. Note - I also dont mind hacking my own printed plans apart.. The accuracy of the laser cutting was confirmed as I didn't have to trim any of the ribs for length. What I did discover is that the spars were incorrectly marked on the plan. Now corrected along with other additional detail in version 6 of the drawings. Joined up wings - part 1. One panel is pinned flat and the other panel secured and the LE, TE and spar sanded down to a good fit while ensuring that the the sweep, alignment and relative incidence remain consistent. It took me a few attempts to get it right - the result was that the wing is now about 6mm shorter than intended. Not to worry, it wont make any discernable difference to a numpty pilot like me. The two panels joined with one tip propped up be 50mm. Due to the wing taper and the thinner section at the tip, the dihedral seems a lot less than measured. I used PVA and allowed the glue to dry for 24 hours. The first dihedral brace (TE) is added. This is a lot easier than it looks. For the TE, I use a a strip of 1/2" medium soft balsa(about 160mm long) and simply planed and sanded a taper each way out from the centre. This is then sectioned so that each piece sits between the ribs. Before the glue dries, cut though the ribs with a razor saw, flush with the block infil and then widen as required using a scalpel. Then insert the brace. I used 1/32" ply for the TE (and will use the same for the LE brace) - I think it will be adequate. The main structural spar brace will be a full depth 1/16" ply. I tend to custom make my braces as I need them. For example, the wing has 2" dihedral at 24", This is a slope of 1:6 - therefore for my TE brace, I measured out 72mm and inwards 12mm to get the same angle. I then simply cut the width to the width of the TE section (10mm). I find using this method being much easier than trying to trace from a plan. More to come, but slowly this week due to other commitments. LE brace tomorrow, then lift the wing, fit the lower spar then add the full depth main spar and u/c blocks. Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 10/12/2012 21:56:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 i like that. i like that alot. if i did not have so much on, i would be tempted to build one for electric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Thanks Tony, I am very flattered. Kind words from a master Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 no master me. you do your braces the same way i do mine. though on my current design i dont need braces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Looks lovely! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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