GrahamC Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Appologies if you tried to watch the video in my previous post - Its the first time I've used iMovie and things didn't go as planned! - You should all be able to see it now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Very nice indeed Graham - well done -you have every right to be pleased with your self! How I envy that strip! All that lovely grass!!! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Fantastic Graham, looks like the c of g is spot on. Flies extremely well and looks great pottering past. Well done, and the fuselage stayed joined Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I had the second maiden of my Pup' last weekend and with the addition of about 200gm of lead strapped to the front of the engine bearers, it was a much better behaved machine. I can't pretend that it was over-powered, I had to modify the take off sequence as it would not have got high enough to clear the trees on the downwind leg of the take off sequence, but it was an absolute joy to fly and looked superb in the air. I am quite inspired to build a 'proper' scale pup now... A couple of photos: and The silencer is home brew and I have added the description for info. The engine is a 1980 HB40. The silencer came from a similar aged OS61 and is modified as follows. Thoroughly degrease the silencer The end 20mm or so is cut off. A baffle is inserted into the expansion chamber running longitudinally (about 8mm wide and angled at 45deg to deflect the gases sideways. The exhust pipe is about 12mm dia and inserted into the silencer about 6mm and about 12mm outside - this sits nicely below the fuselage. It is a tight fit into the expansion area and sealed with lots of Araldite The endplate is 16g dural (cus from an old angle bracket) and glued (araldite) and screwed into the baffle. There is an additional blanking plate (with a suitably sized hole cut in it) to seal the gap between the much smaller exhause outlet of the engine and the huge inlet of the silencer. It hasn't fallen apart yet. The engine is on the test stand - run in the back garden to see how noisy it would be - it is slightly more noisy than a properly slienced engine but not excessive. No one at the field noticed or complained. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Glad you enjoyed it..they are great fun. It was enjoying mine last weekend until the crankshaft connecting pin snapped. No drama, into wind get the nose down and flare out at last second. What a great plane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG3 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Managed to maiden my puppeteer last weekend also. Started building it 21 years ago, took a break then finished it off in the last 5 months. Flys great with an ASP 61FS on a 14x5 prop. 330g of lead up front on end of engine bearer for balance at 130mm from LE of top wing. 4600mAh NiMh in the cowl for on board glow - switched in cockpit. Two NiMh packs in the cowl for weight also! Splits in half for transport. Need to finish it off with some markings. More photos here... **LINK** Will get some flying video soon. Edited By DG3 on 30/05/2013 19:37:03 Edited By DG3 on 30/05/2013 19:38:19 Edited By DG3 on 30/05/2013 19:40:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG3 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 and here is some video Edited By DG3 on 02/06/2013 19:54:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Well done! Good to see another one fly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quentin Barton-Shortt Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I have a Puppeteer on the build table (the warmer weather has slowed things down though). Does anyone have an opinion on fitting an Evolution 10 cc gasser in this model. It sems to me to be an economical addition when compared to a 4s and the fuel required. Cheers Quentin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I've just maidened an Acrowot with a GX10....early days so I'm still experimenting but initial impressions are its less powerful than a 60 glow....it starts easily, runs reliably & doesn't use much fuel. Less oil out the exhaust too but not "the odd black spot" you see claimed for larger petrol motors.....it runs a 20:1 mix & there certainly seems to be plenty of oil going through it!!! I have a 12x6 prop on mine & I think its a bit small so going up to a 13" for the next flights.....it's quite loud with more of a bark to the exhaust than a glow motor. A very "two stroke-y" sound track too... Physically its very small....a 46 sized crankcase but the plug cap stuck out the top makes it a bit tall..... Overall its a very pleasant & easy engine to use but most definitely not a fire breather!!! If I had a Pup I think a glow 4 stroke would be my choice...for the soudtrack if nothing else...the 14x5 fitted by DG3 sounds huge for a 10cc fourstroke but hey! if it swings it OK.....might be worth noting than the ASP61 is physically the same size as the 52....its a pretty small motor for a 10cc 4 stroke.... Hope that helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quentin Barton-Shortt Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Thanks Steve, I agree, and I have an OS 56A which I will use in the Puppeteer. Cheers Quentin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hello Chaps, Very nice pics of the pups on the thread guys and a very informative build. I am in the process of scratch building a puppeteer from a Flair plan and am just about to start on the undercarriage. Please could someone say at what angle to the vertical the undercarriage legs are when viewed from the front? The Sopwith pup legs were at about 20 degrees, but the Flair pup looks closer to 45 on the pictures people have posted. Alternatively, the length of axle between its attachments to the legs? Thanks, Graham Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:01 Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Graham... I've sold my Puppeteer on, but when I made my undercarriage, I went with more 'scale' dimensions. To my mind the stock part just looks wrong, and spoils the look of the airframe. I went for a taller undercarriage with much less splay, and the ground handling was fine. I think I worked out my dimensions from a three view of a one and a half strutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks Graham. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 I have a part built one with a new(now run in) os52 fs . I just cant see myself ever finishing it! With a young family even an ARTF build takes alot of time . Do I ebay it or hang on to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Posted by GrahamWh on 20/11/2013 17:56:39: Hello Chaps, Very nice pics of the pups on the thread guys and a very informative build. I am in the process of scratch building a puppeteer from a Flair plan and am just about to start on the undercarriage. Please could someone say at what angle to the vertical the undercarriage legs are when viewed from the front? The Sopwith pup legs were at about 20 degrees, but the Flair pup looks closer to 45 on the pictures people have posted. Alternatively, the length of axle between its attachments to the legs? Thanks, Graham Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:01 Edited By Graham Whitehouse on 20/11/2013 17:59:28 Hi Graham, I am part way through building my pup, some pictures in this thread are of mine, if it is of any help I could photograph bits of the plans that may help or if you require I could photocopy the relevant bits and post them. Dean Edit: just re read you have got the plans, but if there is any extra you need give me a shout Edited By Dean on 20/11/2013 22:58:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 This may help you. But please do try to make it look a little more scale. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thanks very much Dean for going to so much trouble for me. That is very helpful. I'm afraid my colour scheme is not particularly scale though - transparent yellow underneath the wings with transparent blue on top, transparent yellow fuse. I'm hoping the sunlight through the framework will look nice! I will paint over it if it looks a mess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thank you Kev for the measurements - that's really great. Very kind of you. I will get cracking with the wire bending this weekend - need to get some more gas for the blow torch from the store. I'm going to start with the axle soldered to the legs as in the plan rather than playing around with bungee/rubber bands. I'll see how it goes. I have an old OS 70FS which turns a 13X6 at 7200 rpm which should give a manageable top speed and as it will be mounted forward of F1 should mean I don't need too much lead. Again it won't look very scale as the nose will be at least an inch longer than it should, but if I'm clever with the colour scheme around the nose I might get away with it! Should sound good any way. I'm also trying an aerofoil section my brother recommended for me (SD7062, 14%) rather than the flat bottomed one in the plan. It was a bit tricky to construct but the wings are made and covered now. Look nice against the light! Edited By GrahamWh on 21/11/2013 21:03:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen roberts 4 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I used 3 rolls of solatex to cover my pupetter 2m rolls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Graham, will you be making up some kind of jig to attach everything while soldering, if so photos please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen roberts 4 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I used 3 rolls of solatex to cover my pup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Posted by cymaz on 13/03/2014 08:43:53: Graham, will you be making up some kind of jig to attach everything while soldering, if so photos please Different Graham I think.... But there is a picture of my jig for building the UC about half way down page 4 of this thread. GrahamC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Got it, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Nearly ready. Rigging and top aileron links to go and some other bits. Pics of the jig used below: Cymaz, in case mine might help too - for the jig I mage 2 identical sides. They had a top and bottom beam for the wings to rest on, set exactly parallel, and with a block on the bottom one to hold the bottom wing leading edge back the right distance. They were put on the table at equal distances from the fuselage and I used a spirit level to get them exactly level with each other. I screwed in a small diagonal to hold upright - having checked with set squares they were at 90 to the table surface. Hope that is of some use. Mine had to be made a bit different due to having a different aerofoil section from the plan, so the spacing of top and bottom beam will be different, as well as the amount of stagger between top and bottom leading edges. Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:32:14 Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:49:59 Edited By GrahamWh on 16/03/2014 10:51:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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