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Fire Fly 2 autogyro build


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Dave,

Just had a thought they may well be worth checking regarding the head as I havent checked it as it was new in its packet. The ball joints that I have had on the other heads are no use for the stated M2 threads they seem to be larger and a straight hole rather than tapped.

It would end in tears as the rods on the FF are in tension all of the time and they would just pull out and that is nt really recommendedcrook

On my last few FF's I have used THESE, they have proved to work well.

Using a cheap M2 DIE ,ball joints can be added both ends using one steel pushrod between servo and head...looks better and it's a proper job wink 2

Rich

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Cheers for the heads up Rich.

I just gave them a quick pull test and the rods came right out ...phew crook . Alloy ball joints and tap on order as well speak wink 2

Lol...flying isnt the problem with our waterlogged field...its driving the 1/2 mile back up a steep grass hill with fat alloys to get back to civilisation that worries me dont know

Fear not - Ive a nice little park in mind for a crimbo week flying extraviganza - wooly mittens and beanie at the ready !!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted by Richard Harris on 01/12/2012 17:22:49:

Dave,

Just had a thought they may well be worth checking regarding the head as I havent checked it as it was new in its packet. The ball joints that I have had on the other heads are no use for the stated M2 threads they seem to be larger and a straight hole rather than tapped.

It would end in tears as the rods on the FF are in tension all of the time and they would just pull out and that is nt really recommendedcrook

It's ok, it won't end in tears. My rods are 2mm CF tube, and I drilled out some M2 tapped rod ends and glued the rods in with CA. I've had quite a few roll overs, crashes and knocks. They are still fine. The bottom ends are glued straight into some plastic ball joint housings.

Edited By Lazygit on 09/12/2012 23:06:52

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LG,

How did you adjust them? or did you measure twice and cut once? unlike me who cuts twice after measuring once and forgetting what the length wascrying 2

The good thing with using 2mm steel push rods is they are able to bend in a roll over, but because the servos are infront of the mast means they are always in tension (unless we get into a negative G situation of coursecrook)

Once trimmed CA can be run run into ball joint threads or if you are flush some of that loctite stuff

Rich

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I do the measure lots of times, cut once, throw scrap in the bin, and do it all again and put in adjusters.

The bottom end is glued in as I couldn't get to it in the field anyway. The top end has the adjuster. The crossbar is another piece of 2mm CF tube, and this is the bit that breaks in a roll over. I carry some spares with a ball glued at one end. When the bar breaks I pull it out from the head (Delrin) with a pair of pliers and push in a replacement then glue the ball on the other end. It takes longer to find the spares in the box than it does to change it. By putting in a replacement rather than bending bent rods, the trim is not affected.

 

Control Rod Top.jpg

 

Control Rod Bottom.jpg

The pin through the F3 bulkhead holds the mast in, so if the screws holding the ball links were not so large, I could pull the links off, pull the pin out and remove the mast for travel.

Edited By Lazygit on 11/12/2012 08:44:27

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After waiting over a week for my alloy ball joints to arrive from GS I thought I'd check everything had gone through ok as I'd had no mention of the order being dispatched thinking

Surprise surprise - GS had refunded my money a couple of days after Id placed the order but didnt bother contacting me. When I re-checked the website stock levels for the parts I'd ordered they all showed a bit fat zero dont know (deffo had plenty showing when I placed the order so perhaps stock taking errors).

Never mind, managed to find some decent quality Kavan jobbies in my spares box so fitting those tonight. Theyre plastic but seem to take hold well on my m2 extenders.

Still on course for a crimbo hols maiden wink 2

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LG,

That is a very good idea regarding making the mast removablethumbs up, mine is a tight fit with just a few blobs of hot melt glue for easy removal in case of an 'event'.

Dave,

That's not good regarding GS, at least you have some plastic jobbies to hand, have you made the blades yet?

Rich

Edited By Richard Harris on 11/12/2012 09:36:59

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Yes, brilliant idea being able to remove the mast!

Sadly having snapped the mast on my maiden and then having spent a solid day removing the stub and remaking the 'socket' by micro-surgery, I have epoxied the new one in place.

So . . . next time it will be curtains as the area around the mast base will not take another attack. As Rich knows I have built a Crane Fly to get me over the beginner phase as mast replacement is simple - as it is in Foamie Daves build of the Fire Fly.

You live and learn!

Peter

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Yep, quick replacement masts are the future !! (especially with me at the sticks crook )

I've played safe with the blades Rich and gone the HK Cierva route. Hopefully get them balanced this weekend then all set to go before the snow comes thumbs up

Then again, I believe next months issue (Jan) features some DIY skis...mmmm...wink 2

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Dave,

I am well prepared wink 2 I have a couple of sets of skis I have made up using perpex with a little heat applied to bend the front of them up, they only took an hour to make up. Just remove the wheels and slide them on with a few rubber bands so that they stay upright in flight.

 

OD RPG in the snow

 

GT in the snow

 
 
Rich

 

Edited By Richard Harris on 11/12/2012 12:45:15

Edited By Richard Harris on 11/12/2012 12:46:05

Edited By Richard Harris on 11/12/2012 12:50:04

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Chaps,

I had myself a trip down Staples yesterday to get some Fire Fly plans printed, I left the young girl in charge and had a look around whilst the printer did it's work. When I returned my plans had been printed but there was a dark mark showing faintly on one side. 'Those aren't good enough' I said so she tried another, in the end the manager came over and cleaned some rolls on the machine. Even worse! so they had to call an engineer and gave me the plans to save throwing themwink 2

So I have 8 plans that have slight shadow marks up for grabs, they have cost me nothing so I ask for nothing other than to cover my cost for p+p at £2. I would post them for nowt but it is that time of year and money is always a bit tight.

I also have a PDF that can be sent of the build, it is nothing that has been written bespoke but just pulled off another former and slapped together by a friend.

The drawing gives every bit of information needed that I could think of at the time including blade balancing and control throws plus how to trim and how to fly. I have not deviated from the first model so every other model uses exactly the same blades and parts making sure the set ups are the same as is possible.

So if you want one I have 8 plans to give away, PM me if you are interested and the first 8 PM's get one.

Rich

Mods, if this is a problem or against rules please feel free to remove this post.

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Ok gents plans they have all gone, will get them in the post tomorrow all being wellthumbs up

I have come into a quantity of free blue foam sheets and have been thinking of something to create out of it as I have only ever used the stuff before to make pilots. I blew the FF II plans up 400% and have started hacking at this horrible blue stuff. I think I will add stringers the same as the last then cover it to hide the foam. Should keep me busy over the festive period.

It is light and the biggest tractor I have ever made or seen so far, should be a laugh! if not I can use it for loft insulationsmile

img_1860.jpg

img_1862.jpg

img_1861.jpg

The tail boom is part of a fishing rod that a mate gave me so it should all be able to be broken down for storage.

Rich

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Rich,

The plan is to add stringers then cover , I guess thats cheating or is it lateral thinking?

I did however cover the spats on the last one with film and they are made from blue foam and depron, they were given a coat of balsaloc . My iron  temperature was turned down and they did infact cover very well, I was very surprised how well they did cover, well for me any way!

 

 

Rich

Edited By Richard Harris on 16/12/2012 23:49:16

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