Martyn K Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Hi Andy It didn't make me laugh. I couldn't believe it when I weighed that wing last night. Even worse when I weighed the fus this morning. Ok on the stickers. The ones on this model were larger and produced by Steve. If you would like to make some more that would be great - can you use the same font but bold to thicken them up a bit please? Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 It certainly brightened my day too. I have found that glass cloth/paint is not much heavier than Oracover at the end of the day provided that the excess resin is removed whilst wet or sanded down later. My Curare is a good 8.5 to 9 lbs in Oracover, but the 2M Dalotel which was glassed the hard way is only 10 lbs 10 oz. Primer/filler adds loads and should be mostly sanded away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 I am just finishing off the paintwork on the fuselage and tail. Any suggestions in what I should use for a fuel proofer on top of Rattle can paint? I probably wont fuel proof it for another month to let the paint harden thoroughly (I am going on holiday next week and there are a few tweaks I want to do before final proofing. My thoughts are Clearkote or Rustins 2 pack but would definitely welcome any warnings or gotchas. The rattle can paint is acrylic I think (bring back cellulose - it was much easier). Cheers Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I would be very careful of using AeroCote, just had a bad experience and it wouldn't cure, so try on a small are first. I usually use clear KlassKote and will do from now on. As its epoxy it doesn't react with paints. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Cheers Andy I think I may make up a small test piece rather than risk the model at this stage. If I end up with a finish that looks like 60's crazy paving it will definitely be bonfire time. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I agree with Andy on the Aerokote. Don`t touch it with a barge pole. Caused me no end of trouble on the Mustang. I had some car paint from cans craze up after a year or so after using Tufkote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Onwards and upwards Got most of the colour finished yesterday - so a quick assembly seems in order. and and underneath I have to admit - and I will say this many times - it looks a lot better as a photo than in real life. I have fitted the rudder last night and covered it this morning - usual for me - black/silver chequerboard. I also reweighed it last night - assembled airframe with 3 fus servos and 1 flight battery - 2.76kg. It seems a lot heavier than that though. Still needs the engine and retracts and wing servos and 2nd flight battery fitting though. Not gently rubbing it down with 1200 grit wet and dry - wet - to remove any new high points and flatten it ready for proofing. Not much more to come. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 The camera never lies Martyn.....she looks lovely!! I'm sure a bit of weight will contribute to her sitting & tracking acurately in the air.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Thanks Steve There are quite a few err "blemishes" you cant see although I have fixed most of the paint creeps (by hand). I think that I am more worried about that bit of weight hitting the ground at 30+ mph . Still - after the first landing it will be second hand anyway.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Posted by Andy Green on 06/08/2014 09:42:03: I would be very careful of using AeroCote, just had a bad experience and it wouldn't cure, so try on a small are first. I usually use clear KlassKote and will do from now on. As its epoxy it doesn't react with paints. Andy Where do you get Klass Kote from Andy? It looks like an American product. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Fighteraces are the UK agent for KlassKote: www.fighteraces.co.uk I've used KlassKote clear several times as a fuel proofer and while it's pretty resistant, I've found that the special KlassKote thinners (or reducer as they call it) can lift non-epoxy based colour coats if your mix is too thin. It would seem that the best way to apply it is through a spray gun with a reasonable sized nozzle so that less reducer is needed in the mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 P&P is expensive but its not Phil's fault, its the rules for shipping chemicals. Give Phil a call see if you can meet up at a show. I was lucky and met him at Cosford. The P&P I think would have been £13 but Cosford entry was £10, so I got to the show and I'm £3 up. As Alan says don't thin more than about 10 - 15% just to loosen it, and let the mix stand for about 10 minutes before you thin and start to use. Andy Edited By Andy Green on 07/08/2014 16:13:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Thanks both, I'll investigate further. I am going to try Rustins 2-pack on a test piece as well. I have got plenty of it that I can use.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 I have used Mick Reeves` clear epoxy on the Stampe. Strangely it is thinned with cellulose. They say to spray it but the clear comes in smaller tins than the colours and for gloss it is only 3:1 hardener mix so you lose out on quantity both ways. It dries as you put it on much the same as Tuffkote and smells similar. The cowl was sprayed and looks great but I did not get enough on the rear fus. to get a gloss so rubbed it down a bit and brushed a coat on. Unfortunately where I went through to the Hammerite smoothe it started to bubble a bit but not too bad. The wings were brushed quickly with a very large one and are OK for the type of model. Have heard that the Fighter Aces (I think) stuff is three part and the best there is. On the masking tape creepage, I always use the paper type but never the original edge. I simply cut it into strips on the cutting board and press the newly cut piece on. Provided that the base coat has been flatted with 1200 grit it works well for me. Martin Mc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 P.S., if you wipe the colour edges with white spirit on removal of the masking, most of the creepage will usually disappear. It removes the adhesive with bits of paint stuck to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 Quite a bit more progress: Added cooling air outlets on the top deck/tunnel. These are cut from light alloy - actually an anodised 450 sized helicopter boom. The drawing only shows 2 - i have put five on. Control linkages for the elevators and rudder - not sure where that run came from, but it wasn't there when I investigated later The elevator snakes are now terminated about half way down the fuselage with a dowel from the Y junction back to the elevator servo. No play present.. I mentioned that I was going to try Rustins 2 pack.. Well, I trested it on a test piece, I tested it on a small area of wing and I tested it on a small area of fuselage. All OK. So, I carefully brushed on 2 coats of this plastic coating and it set beautifully. No problems at all.. The top of the wing looked a bit patchy so I applied a 3rd coat thinned 50% with the supplied thinners. The result - crazy paving on the yellow and the red . Gutted. The blue and white seemed to e OK so I masked off and sanded the red and yellow down - several times - because every time I reapplied paint it crazed again. What made it worse was that plastic coating on the top of the wing started to peel off.. So, a couple of evenings spent removing the film off the top surface with a scalpel and a bit of 1200 grit w&d Eventually, I managed to get the red and yellow back on again without it crazing (too) badly and this time fuel proofed it with Spectra spray gloss - which smells like polyurethane varnish.. However, it went on OK but the wing is now looking a little worse for wear.. Still - onwards and upwards as they say. (However with this build it seems to have been mainly downwards).. I followed Martin Mc's suggestion about using 6g piano wire for the main legs - which put a real strain on my wire bender. Finally, it looks like this.. and it weighs this much.. in kilograms A bit heavier than I would like but at least its not 16 pounds.. Just don't look too closely at the paintwork.. Now needs a maiden Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Hi Martyn, It looks great in the pics. Sorry to hear about the paint problems. I had similar on my Stampe using Hammerite blue on the fus. The two part epoxy fuel proofer ran a bit so I rubbed it down ready for another coat where required, this time brushed. In the odd place where I had gone through to the blue it reacted. Arrrgh! Not too bad in the end. Regarding 6swg I do not use a wire bender but simply hammer the axle ends over in a vice since I stopped using coils in them a long time ago. These do nothing except let the legs bend back on take off from wet grass due to the sheer speed and drag compared with landing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Wragg Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Looking good Martyn are you bringing her to Montford? I've seen somewhere reaction occurs when the base coat is still green ie still hardening or something to that effect Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks both Yes - I'll probably bring it along on Sunday although it wont have been maidened by then - and no, I will probably not want to humiliate myself further in such esteemed company by performing the aforementioned act on the day.. See you Sunday... Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 The Spectra clear gloss should be fine Martyn, for some reason it's more fuel resistant than the Spectra fuel proofer! I used it on the Eros and it's still holding up after 4 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Wragg Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Came across this **LINK** Enjoy Edited By Sam Wragg on 01/10/2014 12:35:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 It looks superb in Bronze - never seen that colour scheme before.. Edit - just noticed that he is not using a VPP on this variant.. Thanks Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 01/10/2014 15:26:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Wragg Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 It wouldn't surprise me that Hanno designed this colour scheme for the World Championships in Acapulco because in my experience after years of competing & judging, the hardest sky to see a model perform/fly/judge is a Clear Blue sky. The model tends to disappear and all the colours seem to blend. I have read that Hanno designed Magic 1978/79 for the 1979 World championships. Originally Magic had an up-right engine but suffered from over heating problems, so Hanno inverted the engine to aid cooling. He found that it improved cooling with no adverse effect to the running of the Super Tigre engine (the engine was not pumped). Unfortunately he fell down the stairs and broke his arm consequently withdrawing from the Worlds. He then wrote a letter to the FAI to explain how he had developed Magic so that he could claim acknowledgment for his development. Wolfgang Matt went on to win the 1979 Worlds with Arrow At the Next Worlds in 1981 at Acapulco Hanno won with Magic Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Wragg Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Good luck with the maiden flight tomorrow. After flying my Magic this week for the first time since Montford Bridge my advice is that she likes to fly fast Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Cheers Sam weather forcast is looking ok and I have run out of excuses not to fly it. Fingers crossed Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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