John Hickson Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I'm just finishing off my first glow model which will be using an ASP120FS. Having read many threads on engine cut-outs on low throttle settings I thought I would do the following: I have made a simple electronic switch which can be set to turn on or off at a given stick position or by a switch on the TX. This will be used to switch a LiFe cell connected to a small glow driver circuit. I did a mix on my DX18 so that when a switch is in a certain position, a throttle stick position of less than a quarter effectively ignites the glow plug. My thinking is the low throttle will be used for a) initial starting and b) approach/landing. As mentioned, this can be overridden with a TX switch. Can anyone foresee any problems with this idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Something else to go wrong. Personally I wouldn't bother; if the engine won't idle and pick up then there's something amiss. Generally, in my case, it's the nut holding the sticks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Jon, are you really only on your first glow with a DX18 transmitter and an ASP 120? can i see problems , You better believe it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I use commercial glow drivers on a number of models with larger engines and they are great - as long as you remember to recharge the second battery every time! They give you more confidence that the engine will keep running through low throttle manouveres and means you don't need access to fit a glowclip. For instance my RCV90 in the Texan is fully cowled and uses an on board glow drive for starting. The ASP120Fs in the Dragon Lady uses a glow drive for starting and to give a better pick-up from idle. The OS120Surpass in the Skybolt uses a glow driver for starting and to give confidence that the engine won't die in violent low-throttle manouveres. All mine run from a single large capacity nimh cell and are coupled to the throttle using a Y lead, no mixing involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greybeard Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 No problem at all, such switches are commercially available. As has been pointed out if the engine is correctly set-up the only benefit will be to allow a slight slowing of the tick over setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hi John, Have a look at Just Engines website, you'll find something similar there ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hickson Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 BBC - Its my first glow aircraft, but not my first time flying My first TX and model was a McGregor PCM10 and a Kyosho Concept 30 heli. Many years ago. Complicated TX's dont faze me Thanks chaps I will have a look at whats commercially available just in case my DIY version comes with magic smoke Edited By John Hickson on 02/05/2013 12:38:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Ennis Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 John, check out the Intelligent Glow Switch available from South Herts Models, a great piece of kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.