Carlos Rodrigues Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Revolver in Brazil. Wip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Graber Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Richard: I have completed sanding my three rotors. They weigh 35 gms before final coating and paint. Should I be concerned that they do not weigh 40 gms per your plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Graber Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Richard: I have completed sanding my three rotors. They weigh 35 gms with reinforcements before final coating and paint. Should I be concerned that they do not weigh 40 gms per your plan? Gene in USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Carlos, Yours Revolver is progressing well Gene, Nice job on the aerofoils Do you have any idea what each blade will weigh when complete? I think 35g is a bit light. You can add tip weights on or infront of the cordwise CG to bring them up a bit. I know some of the boys have added tip weights to theirs as they were a little sensitive, I have even seen 5p coins taped to blades as a test (could have been 20p's). As a comparison, my current Revolver III has blades that weigh 54 grams each and they seem to work well but these are slightly wider. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 18/10/2020 22:23:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Rodrigues Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thanks Richard. Can you tell me how much the Revolver weights without electronics? Carlos Edited By Carlos Rodrigues on 19/10/2020 02:51:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Ok here are my blade weights. 445mm X 55mm hand made balsa blade with 8 gm coin in tip covered with heat shrink tube (as used for lipo packs) is 37 gm Complete assembly including try plate, bearings assembly and bolts... Grand total of 154 gms This works OK for me. Happy landings Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 NB These are the blades as used on my model in the videos that I posted on 20.11.19 of this thread. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Rodrigues Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hi friends, About the Revolver... why do we need to use 2 fiber glass plates (0.8 and 0.4) ? Can we use 1.5mm fiber grass plate instead? carlos Edited By Carlos Rodrigues on 19/10/2020 12:55:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Carlos, I don't think I ever weighed it without the electronics fitted, lighter the better. We tried a single 1.6mm thick FG sheet triangle across several models and the results weren't consistent. However the double plate sandwich as used by Graham worked perfectly on all of the beta models. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Rodrigues Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Ok Richard. Thanks for your quick answer. I managed to find a company her in Brazil. they sell 0.4, 0.8 and 1.6mm FG sheets. Problem solved. Thanks again. Carlos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 My Revolver II is complete!!! Have spent this morning running through the basic set up and checks but I'd like to jot down what I've done and would welcome any comments and suggestions or if I've forgotten anything. I won't be test flying the model myself and will leave it to our club's resident gyro expert, but I'd like to at least spare his nerves and give him a fighting chance on what will be an unknown for him and minimize any messing about pre flight. Hang angle check - 15 degrees Motor thrust line - 13mm above true CG position Rudder throw - 30mm left and 30mm right Head plate offset by 3-4 degrees to left Head throw to right - 25 degrees and 25 degrees to left Full up - as much as I can get 25 degrees Head built and balanced as per spec with the thin shims supplied by Coolwind under the TEs Motor offset test. Model began by turning quite smartly to the right (clockwise from above) so moved the adjustable motor plate that I made from the plan to fully right. Remarkable change, hardly any rotation even up to just above 1/4 throttle. Just a question on the elevator setting. I have my DX8 set to elevon wing and this gives correct movement sense at the rotor head plate etc. Rich's article says that the head at neutral should be level and must not go beyond that point to give any forward movement. As such all I have is up elevator (back) movement on the plate, pushing the elevator stick forward (down) gives no movement to the plate. Just to be clear, the only elevator movement I have is from neutral to maximum back or up elevator, nothing else. Have I got this wrong? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Read through the settings info in the magazine article again and I see that Richard advises no more forward elevator movement than that which will bring the head plate parallel to the tail boom. I have things set like that now. I don't think I originally had enough back movement on the head plate, as again, the article quotes no closer than 25mm between rotor and top of fin. I was nowhere near that so have tweaked the mechanics to get me closer to the best figure. Rotors should spin up well now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 Cuban, The only time you would use maximum forward roll is to slow the rotors down once landed. You can have as much as you want really, it was just a bit of a safeguard on my part to minimise push overs in flight. As for rearward tilt the more the better as long as the blades don't interfere with the fin, you will only use this much for pre spin. One of the down sides to a load share set up is you cant get as much throw as a one or two axis head, but its stronger. You've run out of things to do, looking forward to hearing how things go? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Very kind of you to reply Richard. Your comment on the forward movement of the head is enlightening, I hadn't considered rotor speed after touch down and it makes total sense. I'll tweak in a few more degrees forward. Will be a couple of weekends until the model's tested and I've plenty of help from the West Essex Gyro Nuts, our tame gyro test pilot for the maiden and your proven design. What can possibly go wrong? Will update here in due course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 The rotor speed after landing can on some accessions, if not corrected immediately cause the model to be very unstable and even lift or be pulled violently to one side. So when its back on the deck facing into the wind, it may be prudent to push the head full forward. Good luck for your maiden and Happy Landings. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Graber Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Rich: you must have been asked this before - sorry. In the RCM&E article, you state the blade bolt hole is to be 500 mm from the blade tip. On the plan, the 4 mm dia bolt hole is to be 530mm from the tip. It measures this on the plan. Which is correct? Thanks. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Gene, The plan is correct Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Graber Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Rich: I've completed the rotor blades but still have to cover with film. Here are the weights and measures: Blade #1 - 37 gms; 530 mm length end to bolt centerline - 530.4 mm. Blade #2 - 36 gms; 530.75 mm. Blade #3 - 36 gms; 530.0 mm. The spanwise C of G of the three blades is within 6 mm. I checked the balance of the three combinations and all are almost perfect - just slightly down on one side. When I assemble the rotor with the Coolwind head, one blade (#3) always ends up DOWN. So my lightest and shortest blade behaves like the heaviest. Any suggestions? Thanks. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Even when all blades have been made to identical weights ...you will find that the entire head assembly has to be balances as one unit. This usually requires small strips tape to be added to the tips of the lighter blades . This is a critical part of the set up. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Unfortunately I have always had problems adding my videos to this forum BUT if you were to go to my you tube channel " britinozoz" you will find plenty of autogiro clips and there are two on balancing the head assembly .I think that the more recent one "balancing the C30 " may be the better of the two. I think there may also be a couple of videos of this particular model. Happy landings Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Posted by Chris Dowell on 12/11/2020 08:46:30: Even when all blades have been made to identical weights ...you will find that the entire head assembly has to be balances as one unit. This usually requires small strips tape to be added to the tips of the lighter blades . This is a critical part of the set up. Chris... Chris I am sure you are correct but.....I have always added weight to the blades lengthwise CofG to get them to the same weight. Then I make sure to cover them with the exactly the same size of film, then double check the weights again. Lately I have experimented with using the thin heat shrink tubing that is used by the food and lipo manufacturers, widely available on eBay. Works very well and is stronger than silly film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Yes Tim … I always do all the initial balancing along the center line. Its only when using a prop balancer on its final balance that I add the tape to the tips ...at this stage ..I believe that the tape will not effect the final set up.,and my head assemblies always run true. I have also used the heat shrink tape that you mention.it makes a very quick and sturdy skin to the blade....although ...just a little heavier than film and care must be taken by not applying to much heat as the T/E may be vulnerable. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Graber Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Rich: here is my Revolver as of today. The blades balance quite well. Tomorrow I start covering the blades and install the motor, cockpit canopy, and rudder servo. Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted November 18, 2020 Author Share Posted November 18, 2020 That's coming together nicely Gene Which ever method you choose to balance your blades it is always wise to recheck once they are covered. Here is a good video Chris made of how he balances his, I'm sure there is one somewhere I made of how I do it, just cant find it. Edited By Richard Harris on 18/11/2020 12:43:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 Thanks again for the posting Rich. I'm sure some of you will have found it very boring....but it was made to show those amongst us the fact that the entire head/blade assembly has to be balanced as one unit. I have come across several modelers that had only balanced the blades individually . I also made it to show that you can be chasing your tail to get a good balance .The unit I use is a DUBRO 499 that is very sensitive to any variations. Happy Landings Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.