Phil 9 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Savox SC0252 were reccomended by a club mate. higer spec than the hitec for the same price. Any thoughts on these? Edited By Phil 9 on 06/06/2013 08:57:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 I am sure the servos will be great for some models. It all depends what you fly. For a park flyer they would work fine in the sense they will be rugged, have a certain reputation and provide sufficient torque. Against them, is they are unduly heavy for that type of application and the torque is over kill. Yet for a parkflyer, they could turn a good model into a dog. Just because of weight and bulk. Most selection issues revolve around duty, which is related or is that wedded to the model. One issue that has not been mentioned at all, and that is copies. I have the impression that every good servo now has a dopple ganger. Looks similar yet is different. Even SG90s suffer from this phenomena, an excellent low cost servo, being impersonated by often a much inferior product. The more expensive the servo, the greater is the incentive to replicate. How do you avoid these often inferior products. I think E-bay could be a unsuitable location, as is it a club mate, who knows some one etc. Where would I buy from? Always from some one with a reputation to loose. That could be a reputable model shop, or if on line HK, Servo Shop. After all this, I have good success with some brands others deride, yet I have found that some brands some like have caused me problems. The only thing I feel confident with, is if I have identified the duty requirements correctly, brands such a Futaba, JR are excellent if genuine, sometimes at a cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 10kg is more than enough, and i have savox servos in my typhoon mouldie and they have been good, the only thing you need to look out for is on some of savox servos they use a plastic first gear in them, they claim its in there to save the servo, to me its utter rubbish, when it breaks you still have the same problem, otherwise go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Looks like these have the plastic first gear. (thanks for the tip).Branded servos it is then. Thanks Lee and Erflog for your comments and advice. I will need to save a little longer but I think it will be worth it in the end. As I said before I want this one to last a while and even if the worst happerns the better quality kit will transfer to a new airframe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Very little discussion about the switch . Replace a switch anyway after a couple of seasons . They are cheap simple switches and if they fail .......................they fail and the model is lost ,one way or another. Servos can go on for years if correctly installed and looked after . Quality servos like Futaba , JR or Hitec seem to last and last. Beware though of counterfiet servos being sold as genuine on the net.You can tell as soon as you plug them in as they sound agricultural and when you look inside they are tractor like . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Posted by Engine Doctor on 06/06/2013 15:56:15: Very little discussion about the switch . Replace a switch anyway after a couple of seasons . They are cheap simple switches and if they fail .......................they fail and the model is lost ,one way or another. Servos can go on for years if correctly installed and looked after . Quality servos like Futaba , JR or Hitec seem to last and last. Beware though of counterfiet servos being sold as genuine on the net.You can tell as soon as you plug them in as they sound agricultural and when you look inside they are tractor like . I planned on using one of these. A powerbox backer. I then can use 2 lipos and the output is regulated to 5.9v. As it is petrol I need power for the rx and the ingnition. If either battery does fail the good battery with still power both. I alread have used a hobby king backer and it works well Edited By Phil 9 on 06/06/2013 16:15:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 I still do not know about the model, the size, its performance level, to even formulate an opinion. Switches are not something I know about being an electric flyer. Other than it is yet another mechanical device to go wrong. Particularly on IC models, contending potentially with oil, certainly with vibration. To me it seems something that you would defiantly want the best. But what is the best, is yet another can of worms. It probably not the dearest, more about how it is made and designed with respect to the issues. Again many will have opinions, yet little in the way of fact. The safe option must always be a new one, from a reputable supplier, like Futaba, JR. I am sure they will do, may not be the best. What do you think Mr Engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Posted by Erfolg on 06/06/2013 16:16:37: I still do not know about the model, the size, its performance level, to even formulate an opinion. Model is great planes revolver (70 inch wingspan version) with saito FG-21 a 21 cc four stroke petrol engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 powewrbox stuff is top notch, use one on my jet and capiche 140, expensive but worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Posted by Phil 9 on 06/06/2013 16:10:57: As it is petrol I need power for the rx and the ingnition. If either battery does fail the good battery with still power both. I alread have used a hobby king backer and it works well I don't use petrol engines, but all the advice I've ever seen on the subject says to keep the ignition battery and radio battery totally seperate. Otherwise interference can/will be a problem. I'm not sure if this has changed with 2.4, but it's something I'd check carefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Posted by John Privett on 06/06/2013 21:33:39: I don't use petrol engines, but all the advice I've ever seen on the subject says to keep the ignition battery and radio battery totally seperate. Otherwise interference can/will be a problem. I'm not sure if this has changed with 2.4, but it's something I'd check carefully! Can anyone advise me on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Smalley Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 The reason to have seperate batteries is more to do with current consumption rather than rf noise caused by the ignition you need to keep the rx as far as possible away from the icu to minimise rf interference for the model you are using I would use a simple Nimh pack for the ignition and a lipo or life pack through a digi switch, you will need a seperate switch for the ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.