Jump to content

Crane Fly Light , Autotogyro Trainer , For experienced pilots trying autogyros for the first time.


Tom Wright  2
 Share

Recommended Posts

Advert


As Terry's CFL has the rudder and elevator servos mounted in the rear floor section rather than at the rear I am currently converting one of my my models to check the effects of the mod . This does involve a little more work , much longer push wires and adding guides.

Will post photos and results of flight test .

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom, Today I was just getting ready to test fly my CF and was sorting through my lipos one of them is severely swollen .I'm really not sure what to do next with it it does look a tad dangerous .being a leky man what's you'r advice please Bernie.indecision

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bernie

Swollen lipos is normally an indication that they have or are reaching the end of there usefull life . Some will continue to work quite well if the current draw is not very high for the C rating. It's also a matter of how swolen that normally dictates what usefull life remains .

Swelling can be caused by keeping the lipos fully charged for long periods, or when used with motor / prop combinations that draw heavy currents by comparison to the C rating . It is normally recomended that lipos not in current use are stored at 40 - 60 % of full charge . Another thing to avoid is running the lipo right down to LVD ( low voltage cut off ) as this will shorten service life and often result in premature swelling .

Chargers that also balance the cell voltages should be used to help prolong life.

Lipo's for light models such as the CFL are very inexpensive these days ,so I find it is best to spend an extra quid or so to get one with a decent C rating and then run it at half the rating or less , 40 C or more is what I aim for . Hope this helps, but if doubt exists best to get a new one .

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if this was a TGY Nanotech since these have given me similar problems even after just one flight and a light load. A clubmate, who flies electric only, had to scrap nine of them. I now only use the cheaper, lower C TGY or Zippy in the same models and the problem has gone.

Still not had the chance to fly my CFL. It will just have to wait a little longer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bernie,

I advise not to use any swollen lipos I have over the past three years suffered two doing just that, these were run down using a 12v 9w car rear light bulb then dunked in a plastic bucket of brine for a week which killed them completely. As Tom said these small batteries are really cheap.

Hi Tom,

The push rods on mine are 1.5mm carbon rods with plastic quick links on their tail ends, and on the servo arms I used metal swivel fittings with allen key grub screws, makes for easy adjustment.

I was going to use 2mm C/rods with one pair of support guides, but I felt with 1.5mm C/rod I felt more comfortable by use two pair of guides.

Regards to you both,

Terry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very neat Tom.

On the Turnigy Nanotech question I have been using them for 6months, 1000 3cell 25-50C, 950 2cell 25-50C

and some 300 2cell 35-50C all without issue got 5-6 of each.

I do not push them by pulling to much current and never discharge to low, usually 3.7 to 3.8 per cell when removed.

Got a couple of 2200 3 cell 25-50C used in my Quad/Tricopter with no issues either.

Deyrick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Deyrick

I have used nano tech lipos since they first came out and have no complaints at all .

I have been busy today building a CFL that will be going down south to a busy pilot who has very limited spare time to scratch build .

I got all the parts from Coolwind and AJ Blades , just leaving the spruce ,balsa and servos to find from my stock, which certainly results in a fast accurate build that should fly off the board, that is if the weather improves enough to give it a try.

The model will have the "Terry mod " and possibly some small additions to improve the glamor factor as the recipient has flown Autogyro's before.

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Martin

I have used lipo's since they first appeared ,and found that the higher C rated ones tend to give longer service before swelling or significant on load voltage drops occur, but I tend to run most electrical / electronic mid priced model parts well below the claimed specifications, and do accept from time to time a sub standard component may have slipped though questionable quality controls , mind you the problem your club mate had, and assuming the lipos were new and correctly charged , is completely unacceptable .

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have downloaded pdf and ,obtained the fire glass parts from coolwind and the electrics etc. from Giant Shark and it all seems to be going together well. However not having a great deal of experience with electric power I note that the brushless motor does not have a shaft protruding on which to attach the prop adapter and prop. Please advise me how to proceed.

Eric

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had posted over on the RCGroups CFL thread yesterday that i agreed with your findings.

The Auto G flys faster than the CFL at cruise and needs more speed at takeoff.

The Auto G feels heavier in the air while flying when the CFL seems to float in comparison.

The CFL is easier i think to fly easy circuits with, close in and at slow speed.

I have not tried any High Alpha sort of stuff for slow speed but have had it hovering stationary no problems in a small breeze.

I think the Auto G will feel lighter in the air once i get the AJ Blades on it as they will perform better than the standard foam blades going by Tom's experience and others that have used home made wooden blades on them.

I have not flown the AutoG since I finished the CFL so will need to try it again see if it still feels the same after getting more Gyro air time.

Deyrick

Edited By Deyrick Gibbins on 13/10/2013 12:45:25

Edited By Deyrick Gibbins on 13/10/2013 12:46:41

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Deyrick

Thanks for that , it is always much better to hear a truly independent account ,posted on this thread .thumbs up.

I am certainly pleased with my Auto - G blade / plate conversion , as the model is now far less prone to needing replacement parts , and does seem to fly lighter . A guy in the States has done a similar conversion and his reports are very much in line with mine .

To be fair to the Auto - G the stock model does fly well , and if flown with care in suitable conditions, by a pilot with some previous auto gyro experience it 's a perfectly viable model , but for those of us that fly a lot , and for those with no previous I think new parts could be needed quite often .

The stock delta 3 plate does eliminate the problem of getting the blade alignment ,and bolt tension correct , so to avoid vibration with the conversion set up attention must be paid to getting the blade bolt tension right.

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...