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Who's still got a Mick Reeves Focke-Wulf 190D-9?


Colin Leighfield
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Thanks Colin. That will be great.

I have found this build very frustrating. All sounds easy but I have had some issues. Throw in several ARF builds and life in general and I end up with not much progress.

I retired 14 months ago and assumed I would have heaps of time, but not so. Ah well. Having too much fun me thinks.

Happy flying Graeme

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Graeme those fairings can be a pain but I used them in the past this way First of all I applied a contact type glue to both surfaces with a brush. and let it tack off. Almost dry to the touch. Then I warmed the plastic (hairdryer ) to soften it slightly. I then wet the surfaces with a very weak solution of washing up/ window cleaning fluid. This allowed me just enough time to slide the fairing into place.. As I did so I pressed it down pushing the solution out allowing the glued surfaces to adhere as designed. If it is a foam model POR type glues can be used in the same way. If a removable wing is being used be careful to glue the fuselage meeting surfaces only. Be warned.The glue holds it all into place so no need to hold it usually. If a bit isn't holding warm it a bit and press in place. If still not holding slip a LITTLE adhesive in with an almost dry brush. Wait a little time and press and hold for a couple of mins. Job jobbed

John Mantova ------ NW fairing dept No 1

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Thank you for that John. That is very useful information.

And at a stressful time for you as well. My condolences for the loss of your lovely wife Margaret. To provide me with a suggested fix at such a time, well....you are a true gentleman.

The wing is foam but covered with very thin obechi, ply, I don't know what it is. I'll take a couple of pictures to show the problem. Well a problem for me that is.

all the best, John. Graeme

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  • 1 month later...

20181113_170407.jpg20181113_170419.jpg20181122_081418.jpgAfter much consideration and indecision I took my time and epoxied a small section at a time. I then waited till it was thoroughly dry before tackling the section. Very happy with the result. Now to fiberglass the wing.Gee. I'm not very good with these pictures. Anyway, I guess you will get the general idea. All the best Graemefocke wulf 001.jpg

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I have an inkling why the "C" is rarely modeled.

In essence pinning down what you are reproducing comes down to which of the Versuch (experimental/research) air frame you have selected and the point or period of time. As all of the airframes (which appears to be 5 or 10) had various engines fitted. Although it appears the intention was to use a Turbo supercharger arrangement, not all seemed to initially have a system fitted. The situation is further complicated by some having the intercooler fitted as part of the nose radiator. The ducting system on the system apparently struggling with the temperatures.

According to Richard Green, all were intended to receive a wing 10% larger in area. It seems that the "B" received the wing, it does not appear to have been fitted to the "C".

Although the series apparently was able to usefully reach 36,000 feet, the spec changed to 46,000 feet. On this basis the D could reach pretty much the same height, without the turbosupercharger and the 152H coped with the higher altitudes.

In essence both the "B & C" were development airframes which underwent significant changes.

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Hello Andrew,

I am using Aircraft Mechanics electric retracts. I have been using them on my Blackhorse Heinkel 112-B and they have been excellent. Nearly 200 flights with it in 10 months and one collapsed a couple of weeks ago. The worm drive stripped. However, Aircraft Mechanics provide spare parts. Only $40 for all the working parts except the frame.

Merry Xmas all, Graeme

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I have been researching colour schemes. I was hoping to find something colourful. I found an all red one which might do. Also the red and white under wing type. Not keen on replicating those stripes though. It will only be a club flyer so might combine several schemes. I had thoughts of a winter white scheme that look good but I don't think the D9 Dora had those.

Any suggestions please? Thanks Graeme

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190d paint3.jpg

Although they may seem to be the same model they are the two different models, one an own design (152) the other a modified Balsacraft (190D)

The purpose was to give field protection gunnery a clue it was one of theirs.

AS to doing it, it is simple, paint the whole lot white, then cut masking tape into strips. Stick on, a blast of red paint. Apparently the real thing was not done with great care. The red is some RLM spec standard paint.

From what I have read, the winter scheme seems to be white wash, applied by the ground crew. The streaking often seen, it getting washed off in flight. I guess chalk with a soluble binder?

I am more interested in how you did your wing root extensions. From one picture it seems to be a thin shell. Another shows the roots as apparently solid Blue Foam. So how is it done?

I could benefit from knowing (potentially) as I want to make some engine blisters on a midget racer, and I can think of an easy way of doing a neat job.

Edited By Erfolg on 15/12/2018 10:40:43

Edited By Erfolg on 15/12/2018 10:41:57

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Thanks for the inspiration Erfolg. They certainly look good. You are a true modeler. I may give it a go after all. What is RLM spec standard paint please?

Ah yes. The wing root extensions. They were a problem. They are very springy plastic pieces that came with the Mick Reeves kit. No foam involved. I epoxied a small section of the plastic extensions at a time, starting under the wing, and waited until it was thoroughly dry. I then proceeded to the next section gradually gluing, drying and bending around the wing until they were completed. A nasty job but I am very happy with the result. Much better than I anticipated.

Yesterday I finished fibreglassing the wing using Deluxe Eze-Kote. Next is to fit it to the fuselage and sort out the tail plane and fin. Slow progress continues.

Happy building Graeme

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Hmm, In essence quite simple, Reich Luft Ministirium. Which in essence means German Air Ministry. Although they used the word Empire. We are going back to the late 30s. This when the UK had the British Empire, called things like Empire Flying Boats. Put into type of word usage, not quite how it is interpreted today.

As to what the standards were, no great mystery either. Just like the RAF had and has a standard range of colours with their specs. So did the and guess still do have a standard range.

In this case it was a white and a red. The red used for warning signs. I thought it would be a bright red and gloss. I am not certain that it was, as what pictures you stumble across seem to have dull brick red through to bright red. Given that it was all done by ground crews, with what was at hand, in the right quantities. It could have been many cans just mixed together in some cases and a true colour in others.

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I personally do not get to hung up on absolute accuracy.

For me there are a number of reasons. The first is that I will crash the model, it is when rather than if. The longer they last the tatter they become.

The second is that during WW2, most aircraft were not made to the same standards as more recent times. In the case of the Germans, as the war progressed, the access to materials declined, many sub contractors were used, the standard of quality reduced. Under these circumstances adherence to specs and dimensions is debatable. Many of the aircraft were actually completed by field ground crews. Often using Rustzatz packs (field) as they saw fit.

In my club there are a few world standard models. The problem is that they look perfect, rivet detail etc. For me the problem is that they are no more accurate than my as you find them models. Why, because even recently, the panels on many real aircraft have distortions due to the riveting, and even pressing distortions, panels that are not the perfect fit of midget racers and so on.

All of this makes me feel OK with my less than perfect models.

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