E-Glider new design called RedEagle

[Glyn44]

Hey you guys,

im just starting out on the Red Eagle path, just about got all the bits and looking at various bits and bobs. One thing I would like to pick your brains on are the interpretation of the little triangles that appear on the plan, especially around the front of the fusalage. I really want fully understand before balsa bashing.

If you know, please let me know. Thank you

Glyn.

[kc]

As explained elsewhere they denote the extent of the fuselage sides, but in this model they are more extensive as they also denote the slots ( holes) for former tabs. An example is FO3 -the triangles indicate holes in the fus side to take FO3. Study FO3 in conjunction with that part of the fuselage.

However this is tricky to cut and I think it says elsewhere here that they can be eliminated and formers made without tabs. The tabs are so the fuselage 'clips' together.  personally i would eliminate them and put a tiny piece of balsa on the fuselage sides so the formers sit in the right place.

 

Edited By kc on 17/12/2014 16:13:02

[kc]

I can see what confuses you ( and me)

I think  the triangles  indicate a layer of balsa underneath. I think this was mentioned much earlier in this thread.  For example underneath the wing seat is a row of triangles to indicate 'doublers' - if you look at FO3 you can see this top and bottom but not in the middle.   The main fusealge side go all along the perimeter just inside the 3mm crossgrain sheeting.   Then its reinforced with the extra layer inside as indicated with triangles.

You need to study the fuselage side view in conjunction with each former in turn to understand the construction. As this construction is very conventional you will soon get used to seeing the various layers and how it all fits together. A good lesson in reading drawings- most are a little less complex.

The best way now is to trace or photocopy the fuselage side ( use multiple A4 copies sellotaped together) and then draw  along the line to be cut in red following the main line  Then fix this tracing/photocopy to the wood with double sided tape.  Then you can cut right through the photocopy into the wood exactly on the line.

Note there is a fuselage splice vee shaped joint behind FO4 if you dont have a piece of balsa long enough.  Make this joint first and leave it oversize ( i.e some waste) and then cut out the exact shape later.  I suggest making one fuselage side first, if you dont get it right then scrap it and use the balsa for all the smaller bits!  When you get one side right make another exactly same.

Edited By kc on 17/12/2014 16:35:42

Edited By kc on 17/12/2014 16:48:39

Edited By kc on 17/12/2014 16:52:17

[Glyn44]

Eh thanks kc. I reckon that with all the helpful replies from all, and and 30 mins perusing the plan I can see what your getting at. Thanks. Some bits still mystify but I think that once I have the parts laid out it'll be even clearer.

One last term ive not got is doubler. Guessing it means two parts stuck together to give twice the thickness, yes?

Should be building by weekend.

Ta for the help, great.

Glyn

[kc]

Yes, makes a double layer not always twice the thickness. Often a thin thin ply, maybe 1/32, is added to 1/8 balsa on glow models. In this case it's an extra layer of 3mm balsa. 1/8th inch balsa can be substituted for 3mm everywhere. Lightweight 1/4 inch or 3/16  balsa could be used if you dont have 5mm

Whilst it's considered quicker to cut out all the parts first, for a first build it's probably better to cut out each part as you need it and make sure it fits. So I suggest cut one fuselage side then make another identical. Ensure the top line is dead straight along the wing and tailplane seat. Then make the doublers to fit noting exactly where they DONT follow the fus sides -top front fus sides mainly ( doublers are recessed in some places around the hatch)

When assembling fuselage make sure the wing seat and tailplane seat are in line and not twisted - the lower fus does not matter so much. I would assemble it on a dead flat board, inverted with the raised bit in front of wing hanging over the edge.

Ask any questions of anything not clear - someone will help. Post photos if possible

Edited By kc on 17/12/2014 19:16:02

[kc]

Sorry my info was incorrect and it's too late to edit!

The fuselage is not quite a straight line along the wing seat ( it's an optical illusion!) the wing has a slight angle down compared to tailplane. So disregard what I said. Only the part behind the wing could sit flat on the board.

[kc]

Sorry my info was incorrect and it's too late to edit!

The fuselage is not quite a straight line along the wing seat ( it's an optical illusion!) the wing has a slight angle down compared to tailplane. So disregard what I said. Only the part behind the wing could sit flat on the board.

[Ton van Munsteren]

Glyn,

Great to have you onboard building the RedEagle and if the ready of the plan is new for you, best is that you take the pics from my RedEagle build in my album alongside the drawing.

Cheers

Ton

[Glyn44]

Hi Ton,

Thanks for your support.i am certain that those photos are going to be really useful. Thanks for your input. Woodpacks should arrive today. What are you using for the weight blocks I can see in the images?

Kind regards, Glyn.

[kc]

Ton has not said what his weights were, but the rest of us use old gel cell batteries, chunks of steel, bits of lead or Argos catalogues to weight things down.

[Ton van Munsteren]

Oeps yes sorry the weights iam using is steel cut from a strip.

Cheers

Ton

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Ton, I have just purchased the Red Eagle, here's looking forward to the new year and a new glider.

Happy Xmas & A Great New Year.

Mike Adams.

[Ton van Munsteren]

To all the very best wishes for 2015.

Mike, enjoy the build of the RedEagle and looking forward to some pics of the build.

Working on an RedEagle rightnow covering the model for a colleague modeller and there is another one waiting to get build.

Cheers

Ton

[Glyn44]

All best wishes to all of you for 2015.

I have had toothache, trapped nerve in my shoulder, and a fall requiring 5 stitches above my eyebrow, now sitting with a black eye. Oh tooth removed last Monday, so I had a great festive week! Ah well.

Anyway today I have started my build, all well so far. Will post pics when have made enough progress.

Have fun,

Glyn.

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Ton, just started the RED EAGLE build, bit of a problem with the translation but getting there,

just started on the tail feathers, a real good fit, only one small problem there was no brass tubes in with the

wing joiner wire, but have been promised they will be posted. the CD is great to help with the build.

Will try to get some pictures.

All the very best for 2015.

Mike

[David Keil]

Happy new year to you all.....

My Red Eagle finally finished and had its maiden flight but has some problems:-

1) Has a tendency to turn to the left, not violently but a steady turn, have had to put in a lot of right rudder to correct it.

2) Also has a tendency to stall, or easily stalls, may be needs a little more nose weight?

3) Feels quite unstable in flight, although I am more used to a very stable Radian.

I would be grateful for any comments/suggestions on the above...

Dave

[Andy G.]

David.......

Red Eagle should be nice and steady to fly (normally).. CHECK your Cg position.. I once launched mine without adequately wedging the somewhat large LiPO and it shifted back in the initial climb, making the plane a real handfull! Once the cg is right it is the most docile thing I have ever flown.. Is yours turning under power or on the glide?? Under power and some opposite motor side thrust will help. on the glide and I would suggest you have either.... a misalignment somewhere or you have one wing substantially heavier than the other..

I have set up dual rates on mine, and nearly always fly on low rates, with very little control movement, especially on the elevator, high rates makes it ''jump'' about a bit more but still very easy and manageable.. Get it trimmed out and it will reward you with some lovely flying!!..

Andy..

[David Keil]

Andy.....

Thanks for that, mine has this tendency to turn left both under power and no power, have not considered one wing being heavier and will check that.

As for being docile, mine is certainly not that, will put more weight in the nose and see if that makes much difference.

Dave

[Ton van Munsteren]

Glyn , Sorry to hear about your fall whish you a quick recovery and building the RedEagle is a good start.

Michael , Great to know the build has started and sorry to hear about the missing tubes. Iam sure Rob will send them asap.

David , Great that the RedEagle is flying. The turn to the left sound like a warped wing , have you checked that. Its not the easiest wing to hold it strait when covering, so best is to start the check from there. It can also be the cause of tendency to stall. Can you make a pic of the model from behind.

Cheers

Ton

[David Keil]

Ton

Have previously checked the wing for a warp, on checking again, it is very difficult to see any warp more than a very very minor one which I will rectify. Hopefully this Sunday will be a good flying day so will get more experienced flyers to try it out.

Dave

[Glyn44]

Hi All,

Time to ask advice. In the supplied wood pack are 8 hinges. It does not appear to show, on the plan, how these are utilised. Is it two per elevator section (4) thus leaving four for the rudder. This seems a little excessive, four hinges on a rudder, so I'm guessing three each side of the elevator,and then two for rudder.

Secondly the two halves of a hinge are joined together using a push in piece of metal wire, that is cranked at 90 degrees at one end. I have not seen or used this type before. Do I need to fix the pins in place, using adhesive, or are these pins incapable of falling out of the hinge whilst in flight?

Build going steadily so far.

Kind regards, Glyn.

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Glyn, yes you are right to put (3) to each side of the elevator leaving (2) for the rudder, space them evenly,

starting with the ones nearest to the joining wire then spaced evenly to the end of the elevator. the rudder is

more or lest the same one close to the control horn then the other close to the top to spread the load evenly.

Hope this is helpful, I have started with the wings first, but have finished the tail feathers except to sand and shape them.

Mike.

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Glyn, sorry missed about the hinges yes these seem ok if you are worried about them you could always go for a bit bigger ones, the wire in them is more secure as it is crimped at one end, I am going to try these then if not happy I will change them to the others,

regards Mike.

[Glyn44]

Hi Mike,

Yea thankyou for that. I have now realised that the short length of the hinge pin can be inserted and then glued into the wood. Easy when you know how eh?

I've started on the fusy now. Assembled but not glued. Trying to work out what piece goes in the nose(ie firewall)

Press on tomorrow.

Thanks Glyn.

[Michael Adams 3]

Hi Glyn, I think the best way to fix the hinge pin would be to just push the short end of the wire into the balsa and not glue it, if you do glue then if you want to remove the elevators or rudder you will have a hard job, if you just push the short end into the balsa you will be able to remove it if you need to at a later date. I have been looking at the CD build, I don't know about you but it seems rather confusing, jumping back and forth.

I have looked at the photos of the gliders, and I think I will be building my wings with the D box method a bit heavier but so much stronger. pleased to have a chat & swop ideas.

All the best, Mike.