Jump to content

Supra Fly 45


Recommended Posts

I acquired a partial kit of this model a few weeks ago, no cowl or hardware. As these are no longer available I thought I would try and emulate it with my own construction techniques. Pictures show initial fuselage construction with a slot together build and self jigging fuselage. Will add to as progress is made.

img_1336.jpg

Basic fuselage parts, CNC cut with a balsa ply doubler as an experiment.

img_1337.jpg

Doublers added to sides.

img_1338.jpg

Trial fit of formers to sides.

img_1339.jpg

Sides brought together and top alignment deck can also be seen.

img_1340.jpg

Top view with a clear view of top alignment jig/crutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


img_1345.jpg

Wings cut, skinned in balsa and edged front and back. Planned to section.

img_1347.jpg

Servo boxes, cnc cut, assembled and cyano'ed. Weight is 10gns complete.

img_1348.jpg

Servo boxes installed and lead out tunnel capped.

img_1346.jpg

Plug halves for cowl waiting sanding after filling.

img_1349.jpg

Wing tip sanded to shape, a trial for producing vac formed wing tips!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Undercarriage blocks installed for fixed U/C.

img_1355.jpg

Glass tape added to centre prior to applying resin.

img_1356.jpg

Glass is applied in one piece, tacking at the T/E using thin cyano enables tape to be tightly pulled round the L/E and again tacked on the opposite side of the T/E. This allows the epoxy to be applied to both sides at once, saving waiting time for the second side.

img_1357.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glass is applied in one piece, tacking at the T/E using thin cyano enables tape to be tightly pulled round the L/E and again tacked on the opposite side of the T/E. This allows the epoxy to be applied to both sides at once, saving waiting time for the second side.

Nice tip... thanks

Martyn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After a rub on the glass cloth with 120 to get rid of the lumps and bumps, lightweight filler is smoothed onto the edges so as to disguise the edges under the covering.

img_1358.jpg

Tail-plane blank is 8mm foam sheet, cut on machine and faced with 1.5mm balsa applied on the vacuum bed.

img_1359.jpg

Tail-plane edged front and back with 6mm balsa and 20mm balsa tips.

img_1360.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Martyn

An earlier photo shows the start of the plug construction, using a lite ply framework for the shape and balsa blocks for the shape. Carving and sanding produce the basic shape and epoxy plus micro balloons then lightweight fine filler for final filling. Note that the cowl is in one piece, i.e. whole, hence the need to use a parting plate.

Usual finishing, sanding sealer, three coats, primer, paint then 2 pack clear to give a gloss and seal the surface.

Leave to harden then 1200 grit wet and dry removes any bumps then 'T' Cut to polish.

The frame is contiboard with a recess cut in that is the shape of the centre of the cowl. A couple of screws hold the rear of the cowl with balsa wedges elsewhere. The small gap between the cowl and board is filled with beeswax and levelled off.

5 coats of release wax are applied, allowing to dry between coats (20-30 minutes). It's then ready to have gel coat and fabric build up. I'll post photos of each stage from now.

Hope that helps

Steve

Edited By Steve Dunning on 24/01/2014 10:30:11

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just so people understand the parting plate concept.

img_1363.jpg

Gel coat applied to the plug and surround.

img_1364.jpg

After gel coat has partially cured, the edges have had resin and micro-balloons applied to smooth out the corners as the cloth will not go right into a tight corner. Note that this has also been used around the spinner area for the same reason.

img_1366.jpg

First couple of layers of cloth applied. This has to be built up to at least 3-4 times the thickness of the final intended artefact.

img_1367.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Steve

Yep - understand that. I never thought that shrinkage would be a problem though. At what point dies shrinkage occur? Is this a long term thing?

Are you planning to offer this as a kit? I can see a lot of effort going in to make it reproducible.

BW

Martyn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...