Devcon1 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hi All, Building now under way, my objective is to use as much material as I can from stock, now seeing as I had some sheets of Depron I've decided to try and build light, perfect for those flat calm evenings we're going to get. I plan to try and incorporate a full depth open cockpit. by fiddling around with the wing structure by moving the lower rear spar forward a bit. Wing ribs will be Depron and the wings then skinned with the same. Motor is a Overlander T2836 1120 Kv Servos New Power 11gm Metal gear Basic kit of parts I've opted for an alloy torque tube elevator joiner A bit of deviation, I've set the undercarriage bearer lengthways to suit some bearers I had in stock. Closer look at the formers in Depron and F2 with some material removed. Experimenting with a Depron rib. Motor mount Stab frame minus a bit of balsa. Now because I had no 6mm sheet I laminated the sides from 3mm and 1mm, this has allowed me to raise outer skin up the wing bottom so I'll let the wing seat into the small rebate that's been formed. I know this won't be a standard plan build but I'm following Lindsay's notes with the article "but making it your own is half the fun of a model like this" couldn't agree more, it's such a versatile design.. Thanks for looking John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Nice start. Something different from the normal. Watching with interest. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Tub almost done, I've added a bit more air. Just need to add undercarriage bearers and wing seat. I'll start on the rear end over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 My little motor does look a little lost in there but I'm sure it will be adequate. I'll put a fillet between the bearers and fuselage sides, the undercarriage legs will sit in a groove with the lower sheeting being fitted to make them sit flush with the sheeting.. Regards John . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Ooops, forgot to put the other photos on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Top longerons set out and keel plate fitted. There does seem to be a slight difference between the actual width versus plan width, I seem to recall somebody mentioning this previously but no issues. I plan to use some balsa dowel for the lower longeron. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Rear end done and turtle decking drying overnight. Because I used thinner fuz sides I overlapped the decking by chamfering the sides a little. I suspect this is where I lost a little width against the plan, had I had my thinking head on I would have resized the formers.. dooohhh... Thought about doing the turtle deck in Depron but chickened out but I have found some nylon to give the tub a "vintage" look hopefully. There is a fillet in there to give a decent joint. Look forward to a bit of triming tomorrow because I won't be going flying.. Same for the rear. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Found these at my local model shop months ago and bought them thinking they'd come in handy, well,... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 looks to be an interesting build sir. i like the louvers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Wing seat and wing bolt rail in and decking tidied up. To keep the full depth cockpit I've set the wing bolts back and will simply tap two 4mm threads into the bearer as per the test piece Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 I think this pilot is slightly too big, I think I'll save him for an enlarged Dawn Flyer at a later date. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Intrigued and following with interest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Thanks go to BEB for this one. 1.99 at Halfords. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Stab and Elevator all glued up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I love this. A great thing about the mass build is the way it provides a powerful demonstration of the fact that the plan can be just a "starting point"! Great adaptions here John. With a bit of luck we'll end up with loads of great DF's - no two exactly the same - but all built from the same plan! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well the undercarriage may well be a "one hit wonder" but I've tried to think of the loads/wheel size/weight and flying style so I'll give it a go in keeping with my weight reduction ethic. I had to bend the wire around the blocks. Before sheeting. some sample sheeting pinned in place, I may go thicker. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Kevin, Stevo, Tony, BEB thanks for your comments any thoughts and comments appreciated. Forgot to add these pics of the wheels. These are the standard Flair (83mm I think) but I shall put them on the scales and see what I can loose from the hubs. I've started on the tyres, I've flipped them inside out and have started thinning them out with a sharp scalpel. This may take some time so I might keep a lookout for some lightweight oprions. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Yes those Flair wheels can be a bit heavy. You could turn up some balsa or liteply hubs o a small lathe.. and use foam tyres? Ive got a small proxxon wood lathe if you fancy giving me a challenge!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 be carefull by thinning the wheels out - they may lose stability if the rubber is too thin - means they might look like you have a flat tyre .... VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Stevo, Tthanks for your offer I may take you up on it but you have given me an idea, I'm going to try and mount the two parts of the wheel in a drill and and see if I can scrape some of the material of the inside, I then want to try and turn them into spoked wheels with a little dremel work. Hi Vecchio, You're right so I'll go easy and see what the result is, If they go a bit wobbly I could fill the inside with some light foam. I've set myself a target of a 50% weight reduction for the set. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 BEB, Just measured up and it's 9 inches unweighted but should sit at about 10 inches when finished. Tried these on but I'm afraid I can't use them as they are spoken for already by next project. Some 6 inch Kavan Superlights. Reminds me of my fFuncub The legs will flatten out a little to get rid of the excessive castor or camber, not sure which. Just weighed both paird the Flair ones, 3 1/4 inches 116 gms a pair, the Kavan 6 inch inflatables 180 gms a pair. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Tweddle Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Negative Camber. The wheels would look better on a Wellington, I am going to just bite the bullet and go with the spokes. Looking very good John David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 David, Negative camber, thanks for that, I'll straighten it out later. Have you found some other light spoked wheels ? Re building the back end I built the Tub then glued the lower keel plate and top longerons into place on the tub. When it was dry I inverted it and pinned it to the plan I then built the top frame and lower keel strip to match the tub, the width did vary slightly from the plan but I think that's because I used thinner fuselage sides. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Tweddle Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Only these John. David Ps still looking for the link I saved. DT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Like the wheels, must try to make some. I've seen a mountain bike version as well. Back to tonights progress. U/C all soldered up and straightened to give the right geometry, I think, it end up at 9 //2 inches on the wheel centreline. Photos of tonights progress... simple jig to align the legs before binding and soldering. Bottom sheeting added, I'll add some air to these later. I enlarged the opening in this former to allow the following. I've folowed BEB's idea for this one. I then cut a final front former smaller than the one in the previous picture but drew the outline of it on this one, you can just see it under the mesh. The grille was pinned down.. A driibble of epoxy was carefully cocktailed sticked into the gap between the two. The excess was trimmed off. To end up with this and this, I'll then simply stain this part and fix with some small screws from the front so I can take it off when I need to replace a broken motor shaft. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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