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"Ms Jax" - free plan back in the late 80's??


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To secure the lower cowl, I've made a couple of retaining tabs which you can see glued to the bulkhead, between the upper and lower anti-vibration mounts. The lower cowl slides up into these from below. It is then secured by a small screw into the bulkhead near the bottom - this is accessed through the air intake.

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That looks fine Mike.

There are several other ways of bending balsa

1. see many of Peter Millers builds ( Jezebel for one ) where he glues one end down and when glue is dry bends the rest by using a heat gun.

2. Putting masking tape, Solarfilm, Solartex, tissue etc on the outer surface allows balsa to bend more. Try it on a bit of scrap!

3. ammonia but it's not worth the health risks.

4. two thin layers are often better - for example 2 layers of 1/16 will work better than one layer of 1/8. Either when using sheet or when planking.

Edited By kc on 20/08/2014 17:50:24

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I managed to get a bendy piece of 1/16th balsa to curve around that sort of radius in one layer without any trouble.

I presume it's a fixed ( non removeable ) wing on your version? If so the top part is glued to the wing.

It's much more difficult making a fairing to fit the wing and be detachable to get at the wing bolts. Much easier to make a flat top to the wing and then the curved part to go on top. Reason is the wing is so thick at one point that the fairing has to be very thin there. Very tricky compound curves!.

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I plotted a central former for a tapered cowl by drawing both end formers on top of each other onto a bit of balsa.( centred and at the correct height ) Then put a series of dots half way between the two ( done by eye but measuring if needed) Joining the dots produced the line to cut to. Result is a former which is correct for halfway between the others. I could have halved the distance once again to make further formers to fit at the quarter distances.

Edited By kc on 21/08/2014 18:01:16

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Thanks John, the only reason I'm using the AV mounts is simply because I've copied a few design details from my Mini Panic and they were recommended for that. My only concern is that my LMS hasn't had any of these in stock for ages so I got these from Farnell and they seem a little softer than those on my Panic. As you say, they're probably not essential with electric, although my previous project (the Citabria Pro) which didn't use AV mounts managed to rip the front bulkhead off twice due, I think, to some kind of resonance.

If these mounts prove to be too soft, I can either replace them with the harder ones if they ever come into stock, or some rigid stand-offs.

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The top sheeting over the wing is now complete...

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...and meets up nicely with the top hatch/cowl (the difference in colour is mainly down to the use of some sanding sealer on the hatch)

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...and for completeness, seen here with the lower cowl too

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Edited By Mike Smith on 25/08/2014 18:50:39

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And now for the final piece of the jigsaw... the upper decking for the rear of the fuselage... 1/8" sheet, gently curved round F3. You'll notice I added a small strut between the fuselage sides to prevent them collapsing inwards under the pressure of the upper decking

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I topped this off with a couple of layers of 3/16" sheet (not pictured here), carved and sanded to a rounded profile.

 

Edited By Mike Smith on 25/08/2014 20:16:16

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The original plan calls for 1/64" ply sheet for the canopy, but I ended up making mine from 1/16" balsa sheet. I decided to form this first round a piece of 1/8" shaped the same as F3 (only slightly smaller).

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I feathered the inner edges to accommodate the curvature of the decking

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...and once happy with the fit, I glued it in place onto F3 and the upper decking

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LOL... sorry Jack, am I not progressing fast enough for you? wink

I had a bit of a setback... when checking the elevator, the solder joint on the internal control horn failed so I had no option but to "extract" it via a bit of keyhole surgery. I should have silver soldered it but didn't... you live and learn. I will now fit an external horn and new pushrod.

The following pics bring you right up to date with the project.

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