Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Last night showed a picture of the Vulcan to the lad, he said the fin doesn't look right, well I wasn't sure. So first job today was from a few drawings I've got I've re-shaped it. Here's some pictures. I'm much happier now - will it pass inspection tonight from the lad? Also took front edge down on engine pod. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 18/07/2014 10:32:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian101 Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 It passes my inspection. Looks good and should look great in the air. Regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks Ian I hope so, just had a look in photos and found yours at 80" on rc groups, I'll have to get a coffee on and have a look at that thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Sometimes when you get a arrival wrong the nose can break off you model, especially on a foam model, so I've put a support piece in now, save me doing it later -via a repair. Width gap inside fuse 55 mm, slots cut into wing that width and the allowance for ply cut inside that. Placed ply of 3 mm light ply stuck to 1.5 mm birch ply which is length 200 mm x 32 mm. 100 mm in the wing and the other inside the side of the fuselage. Temporary spacer -epp foam- just placed in between ply tongues. After glueing on the fuselage I will check it has adhered to the sides properly when I cut into the fuse to make a hatch, and take out the epp spacer. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 18/07/2014 12:20:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 The above process as to include attaching the fuselage. So done a dry fit and happy its in the middle and marked both top and bottom to the wing the line the glue needs to go to. I will have to work fast because I'm using contact adhesive, to help I'll use 'TimeBond' it as a little slide time which I'll need. To speed it up the drying time, I'll put the fan on blowing air on the model to help blow the flumes off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Fuselage on - coating engine pods with lightweight filler - Wilko's sold out locally so using the bit left in the tub of PolyCell One Fill its the same except more expensive. Using fingers to get around the engine shape. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 18/07/2014 14:11:56 Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 18/07/2014 14:12:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Got some more filler now new container, I can carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Looking very good. Reading with interest, although no matter how hard I try, with the pattern in the foam, I cannot get it out of my head that you're using black pudding to build the Vulcan with. Edited By John F on 21/07/2014 11:15:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thank you John F for your comment. I suppose the black epp looks a little like 'black pudding', mind you epp doesn't go off in the current heat wave. So the Fins on it includes 3 x support fin posts glued in the foam fin and two of them go to the bottom of the fuse base. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 21/07/2014 15:57:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Cheers Tony - at present at 28 oz / 680 grams - not bad it got to be about 4 sq ft. So when battery, RX and a hatch and ballast box in, decoration est 10 oz sq ft wing loading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 That's looking mighty fine Mark, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Great work Mark, really impressed with this one, some clever build techniques here - look forward to seeing this at the Lleyn!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Well it's dry now, and had it's final sand so on with the water paper paste and brown paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Cut other set of wings and body, stuck fuselage together last night whilst awaiting the other one to dry. Watched on by the first one. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 22/07/2014 16:12:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 TWO!!! WOW!! Will they both be ready for the Lleyn?? We can bind it to another Tx and we can get some formation flying in!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Correct first time Phil - won't that be fun? We can try and get another picture like you T33 aviatar ! ( better get two good pilots on it ) I'll let you sort that out. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 22/07/2014 17:53:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Yes trying Phil to get both ready for that event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 That'll be great Mark, look forward to seeing them up close the model looks really good I quite fancy one of those myself!! Will you finish them both in brown paper/PVA?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Yes I was however wall paper paste and brown paper. Phil would you advise to change to PVA and brown paper? Then polyurethane varnish then acrylic paint. Phil Is your T33 covered in brown paper before film covering? Your welcome Phil to have a epp Vulcan however can you guess who's made you second on the list? Covered in epp dust just finished sanding second body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I must admit Mark I've never used wall paper paste on models, I covered my Sea Fury (all cut from black EPP by the way) in brown paper and PVA and that worked well, see below - if I was to guess I'd think the resultant finish and feel must be very similar - but having never tried the paste route I cant advise from experience. Go with your gut. My T-33 is white EPP strapped with fibre tape then covered in Profilm. Mark I'd love a set of Vulcan parts that would be awesome, let me know what you want for them please!! It must be Matt or Dave chasing one of these too is it??? hehehe. It'll be another 'mass build' before we know it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 The wallpaper paste should work so long as it has no lumps, and that you don't use woodchip paper Phil, that is a cracking covering job on your model. How do you get it so smooth without any apparent wrinkles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 No tricks really, I followed a method passed down to me by Steve Davis at Vortex Vacforms, the (slightly watered down) PVA applied to the MATT side of the brown paper and allowed to soak for a few seconds leaves it very compliant to 3D curves, I did have to use some sharp scissors to cut some little flaps around areas like wing tips where the radius gets too small, but I found myself treating it like solartex really, folding the flaps around the corner with overlaps. The nice thing about the PVA is that when it is all dry you can sand out the overlaps with a fine paper and you end up with a good surface finish for a light coat(s) of dope prior to paint. Edited By Phil Cooke on 22/07/2014 22:14:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Like Daz says nice finish Phil. I think I will change to pva, is the watering down 50/50 or a little stronger Phil? The buddy first in line is Matt. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 22/07/2014 22:20:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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