Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 No Daz I've had it I'm off to bed - I'll start again tomorrow early and do a little before I go work, night night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 It is looking really good, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Cheers Daz -watched your Vulcan video last night of your build and maiden flight again on your You Tube channel brilliant and great music you chose. Well done a little this morning before work. remember the way and method to stick the corners of the body together well it really speeds up the build. Picture shows rear tail cone glued Domestic plastic rain guttering makes an idea sander with 80 grit grade paper stuck inside to sand the fuselage round, the handles made from MDF wood glued on with hot melt. Choosing the correct sometimes larger radius plastic guttering helps and makes getting to round easy. I had to make some packers to put inside the body fuselage to help support it whilst sanding and shaping, it allows you to press apply pressure without bending or breaking the work. Sander in place on fuselage Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 09:01:53 Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 09:29:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 nice work so far sir. looking to be a nice model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thanks Tony, hows your depron Vulcan coming on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 not bad sir. its the first time i have used depron so i am having a few head scratching moments while i work things out. ready for fitting out soon and wing tubes, then final sheeting, cover and paint. TSR2 is next on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Any more progress with the Shackleton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 erm not at the moment, run out of funds at the moment . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Innovative - I like it. Nice Build log - keep it coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thanks Stevo for your kind comments - just finished work early so after lunch I'll start some more build blog / thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hi Mark, You mentioned deliberating over the section, but what did you chose in the end, or is it an own design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thank you Steve for your reply, the section is one I've use on the Gazelle as seen in video on page one in this thread, its my own design section I've just made it wider and longer for all the different chord lengths, here's a picture of the gazelle section and section b from plan. PS. Steve - is the JP fully decorated now? The top line towards the trailing edge has a little flex rather than outer camber this should help with the flying wing. Location pin on trailing edge - cemented in section rested onto foam helps set position. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 13:15:52 Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 13:30:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thanks Mark. The Gazelle look great in the video, so I hope the Vulcan flies just as well. I'm contemplating an own design PSS soon, and am interested in how designers choose their sections. My JP is still not finished, but I have progressed with printing the markings - will post photos soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Thanks Steve with the comments about the Gazelle, you'll have to show us your PSS idea for a glider. Some basics with wing sections and I'll only mention two - the efficiency of a wing is influenced greatly by it's aerofoil often called section or profile, which has camber and some thickness. It could take a whole thread maybe you ought to start one Steve - asking members of this fine site to offer up sections they have used : -it's chord length, thickness- camber - wing span, weight of model, wing layout and the model it was used on - power or glider, here's a picture of wing section features - aerofoils etc etc. I think Steve it would be a good thread for you to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Well the fuselage is sanded and now needs a cockpit - to scale needs to be 20 mm deep, made a pattern to cut the side profile shape and another to cut the top shape. under the hotwire Found a old cardboard tape roll stuck some grit on it to sand the underneath of cockpit to concave it so it fits the fuselage Concave bottom to cockpit helps with fit side view coming on - when sanding knock out a little foam out of the nose - easy fixed with a patch. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 15:03:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Sanded light filler off the wing both sides and I've vacuum off the dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 The Elevons for this model I have made as one piece each side. The full scale Vulcan as a inner large one near the engine pod and slimmer longer ones out board of that. To emulate that I will draw it on the covering with a marker pen. As a rule of thumb and for good control on flying wings - not over or under control especially in the up and down mode - I try to keep to the width of the Elevon on wings to 15 % of the chord length. Of course the Vulcan wing sweeps a lot so I pick on a few points along the wing and measure 15 % of chord to check it to scale and its very similar to the full scale one in appearance. A pattern / tool as been to aid cutting the Elevon's out and notice the marker from the tip for reference. Up against the wing I turn it over to cut the other side..... notice this is the underneath od the wing ( you can see the spar ) so it should read right ..... it doesn't matter because its symmetrical.... and the drag spar below for left should be seen on the top. LOL... I actually cut these out before the drag spar is fitted, the angle / edge made by the elevon is followed through to spar placement from middle of the wing to tip. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 16:12:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 The Elevon needs slimming down because I want to use 3 mm light ply as a stiffener and if I don't it will be to thick and this is not good for streamlining and I would like to keep to little of the TE section it has. I've set 3 mm on the hot-wire cutter used a bit of wood to keep the elevon flat to the table whilst slicing of 3 mm of the epp foam Elevon. The 3 mm is set with a spacer between the table and wire. NOW - I've got - FES - - Floppy Elevon Syndrome, - this is not what I want or need to control this Avro Vulcan. '3 birds with one stone' - To stiffen it up with 3 mm light ply I've gained 3 by-products by doing this. By extending the ply to the front of the elevon I end up with a gap underneath giving me the clearance I need for the Elevon to move down and the 3 mm light ply can be a bearing edge to the Elevon. All I need to do is stick it on the ply with contact adhesive and this gives the stiffness for the control ..... - my FES has cleared up ! this picture was took before I sanded the wing ...drag spar is to the top hard edge for wing and elevon to meet. Have to make sure I don't make two lefts of rights when glueing them together One right Elevons in place to try out...again picture took before sanding it. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 16:48:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Weight of wing 12 oz - before servo's in -elevons on and before I cover it in brown paper and wall paper paste. I bet that will take ages to dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hey guys !! This bloke has a HOOVER in his workshop! The detail of the build is great. A real instructional effort. I almost feel compelled to go and build one myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Sorry chaps - been away from the bench, been flying for a bit tonight at the Melton Mowbray field - took a small wing with 1200 mah battery. Cheers Stevo - about the Hoover - (Vax) - I'm trying to copy Matt Jones in his threads he keeps a very clean workshop - he says he always cleans up every night, keeps the builds clean and tidy. I need to change my ways, so I keep the vacuum under the bench. In the past - it's got so bad - this is the past where I only cleaned up once every 7 -or 10 days whilst I was build / working ....I thought my arms were getting shorter - No - it was all the cuttings and rubbish on the floor I was standing on - after I cleaned up.... I could reach the work bench again. I'm a changed man. Covered the body in filler - tomorrow it will bit crispy dry, so I'll sand that, put servos in the wing with cover plates for the exit arms run wires to middle at forward in front of the main spar, stick on the engine pods, and cover in brown paper - already mixed the paste, can't wait. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 16/07/2014 21:49:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Vulcan epp model before I cover in brown paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Centred the servo and put a 'L' on the left one to keep them handed, chose a servo arm long enough to poke through slot and remembered to tighten the servo screw. Servo hatch made from 1.5 mm balsa with the wood grain positioned to help with wing shape, cut servo hole in wing and made it a tight for the servo, used a little glue to pot it in, glued in the edge of epp foam recess, on top of servo and inside hatch cover. Servo hatch pattern Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 17/07/2014 16:34:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I love a man who makes loads of jigs and labels them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Hi Stevo, on the small wooden jigs and special tools I've made I put 'red and white' flashing on so I can find them, in the past it took ages to find one, it had been scooped up on a tidy up and ended up in the balsa box. Now where's the red marker and white tipex for that hatch pattern. PS. Stevo your Be2c build looks good. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 17/07/2014 19:23:39 Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 17/07/2014 19:44:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.