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Servo buzz


Danny Fenton
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Just coming back to the hangar after a few years away on the dark side (sailing). I don't remember my old Futaba servos vibrating or buzzing when at rest, however with my new JR when my servos are idle/centred some of them buzz until moved away from centre, then buzz again when returned/sticks released. Should I alter the centre point to stop this or just not worry, does this generally indicate a duff servo?
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Hi Danny,
I had a problem exactly the same a while ago and the problem was found to be stress on the servo from the control run.Check the function of the control surfaces and make sure that there is no friction or the control rod pulling at the servo horn at an angle.

hope this helps

vince
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Danny,
rather than use them,replace them until you find the problem,it could be that they are not centred properly or faulty. i would not use them as they will drain your flight battery and if that happens ,you won't have any control of the plane.It would be a shame to ruin a plane ,all for a couple of servos.

vince
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Hi Aslan they are JR539's they arrived new with the rest of the equipment. If you move the trims then the buzzing can be reduced on one and stopped on the other. If you move the servos using the TX sticks they go silent. Its as if the centre point of the pots is noisy and causing a slight hunting.
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Could be because servos are generally better and have tighter centring than a few years ago. I have some Topaz servos which visibly flap the control serfaces after a fresh charge, but do not pose any other problems apart from battery drain. Just look at a digital servo with a very free linkage trying to support the weight of a control surface.
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Danny,I use a lot of 591s,about 20-30,and they are notoriously buzzy.Have never had any probs with serious battery drain,But I do use high capacity packs,1400+,nearly all 6v.I think the pressure on the surfaces while flying,helps them to centre more easily.Fit a voltspy,this will tell you imediatly on landing of any serious battery drain.Good luck.
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Hi Aslan, thanks for that, thats re-assuring, I don't think the servos are at the expensive end of the range shall we say. And also thx for the information on voltspy, I will do some research. The Rx pack that came with the system was 4.8v can you up the voltage, doesn't the receiver complain?
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The voltage increases the torque on the servos,
most can take it,some can't.The spec on the servo will tell you if you can use 6v,but some models do not need 6v.I only use 6v packs on models with larger surfaces.Don't get too bogged down on the 6v thing at the moment Danny.Larger capacity=longer air time.Stick to 4.8v for the moment.....your 539s give 4kg....
plenty there.Always charge your battery pack the night before.Are you flying long Danny?
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I wish I was, unfortunately I haven't flown for years, pre certificates. The club I have joined have a strict no A cert no fly solo. I fly mode II and there is only one guy qualified to assist me on that mode, the whole of the Midlands seem to fly mode I LOL so at the moment no flying at all :( I don't intend to fly that much in one session, at most 45 minutes total power on time, but you never know....... Do you advise cycling the Tx and Rx batterries from time to time? Thanks for your advice, and time, it is very much appreciated.
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First off I would advise you start to fly mode
1,purely because you can fly more often.It is possible to switch the control units over on some txs.It is important to cycle all nicd packs to keep them healthy,once a month should be plenty.Maybe someone in your club could sell you a cheap computer tx Danny,they are realy cheap and easy to set up.Would do you no harm to ask.Let me know how you get on,might be able to help you for the price of a pint and a pack of fags........
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Hi Aslan, I flew for more years than I care to remember on Mode II and they weren't trainers, so I don't really want to re-learn. I have messed around with a simulator and my skills all seem to have come back fairly rapidly, a bit like riding a bike LOL I did try the simulator in mode I and don't get on at all, my instincts are with Mode II. If push comes to shove, I will pay for some Mode II instruction at one of these training schools that are springing up just to get the A cert and then I can fly solo again. It is slightly frustrating, but I shall remain patient the better weather is approaching as are the longer evenings.
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Hi Martin, Unfortunately I fly with a JR PCM9XII and when used in a buddy box scenario it has to be the Master. I have thought about buying another radio as you say, but I really cannot afford anymore than I have already spent, a Wot4, J'en 57, and the JRPCM. I am so tempted to go and find a friendly farmer and just go and fly!!
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Hi Timbo yes you can it seems, but only to another JR, it has to be the master if linked to a Futaba. This return to flying is costing me a lot of money and so far I havent flow an inch! I have just been out and bought a new JR2720 and connected it to my JR PCM9X11,The PCM is on mode 1 the 2720 on Mode 11. The real problem was matching travels, expo, etc. How do you guys cope with the instructor changing the trim during flight? is it a case of the instructor calling two clicks up, so that the student can synchronise??
Roll on next weekend, maybe I will get to fly again after 25 years!
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I usually trim the model on my own first...then land, and change the trims on the trainee's box to match. The best way to ensure synchro is to twiddle the trims as stated, then lift trainer switch, and check that NO movement of any servos is detected as you switch back and forth...then go fly :)
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Hi Timbo, I just found a function called P-Link which seemed to imply that it would sync the two Tx's but it did not do quite what i thought it would do LOL. Have done as you suggested sync'd the two manually, the worst is the throttle. The aileron elevator and rudder was fine you just match the numbers.
Do you tend to trim a model to a specific throttle setting and not change it after that? I guess if you set the throttle trim to centre for a reliable idle, and anything lower to cut the engine, then it just needs centreing after a flight.
Thanks for the advice :) it is much appreciated
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