Yorkman Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I've recently built an old Flying Styro TA-7C Corsair II, and after a few flights I discovered that the stbd wingtip is twisted up in relation to the port, hence the exciting first few seconds of its maiden flight! **LINK** If I leave it overnight suitably weighted, I can change its angle of attack, but it doesn't last more than a few hours. The wings are moulded polystyrene, upper and lower surfaces joined at the factory with a thin ply/balsa spar fitted by me. Has anyone got any tips on how to 'lock' a new shape into the wing? Would be nice to have the ailerons at neutral! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 One trick is to pour very hot water over the twist and hold until cool. This has worked for me in the past. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hot water can make the surface go a bit odd - some of the blobs of stuff expand more than those around them leaving a slightly lumpy effect which is minor and not important in terms of flight perormance but noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 If you have or can get hold of a wallpaper remover steamer or anything similar - weigh the wing down as you did before & play steam over it from an inch or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkman Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 steam it over a kettle? That's the old balsa, tissue and dope way isn't it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yup. But steam is used in the manufacturing process of polystyrene foam & that's why hot water is also effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkman Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 thanks for that, I'll give it a try tomorrow. and try not to 'unstick' the transfers in the process... Edited By Yorkman on 03/09/2014 23:05:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Just be careful, where any unwanted curves are involved, to concentrate the water/steam on the inside as the process works by swelling the beads so getting heat on the outside rather than inside of a curve will make it curve more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROY DAVIES 1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Have a cold metal 'lump' handy to cool and smooth the foam immediately you've worked the warp out, this helps prevent the bumps. Cold water is a good stopper of bubbling too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hello Yorkman - after seeing your video of the plane in action, ( nice looking model by the way ) all I would do is use some tape, you managed to fly so I think it must only be a small correction is needed to be made Because the model is coloured use some clear adhesive tape like -diamond tape of similar - and put this on top or on the bottom to get the movement you want. So from wing tip to a stout thick part of the wing is where your going to put the tape, to twist it a little, tape it on the tip - tension it - then attach the rest of the tape run, check for straightness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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