Phil Winks Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Just a quick question sort of IC related, am I right in thinking that enamel paints and varnishes are glow fuel proof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Not if my experience with Humbrol enamels is anything to go by! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 No, you're wrong Phil. Petrol and diesel, yes, glow, no. Polyurethane is ok-ish but enamel isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Thats confusing as the fuel proofer I've used in the internal areas on the DF is an enamel base, well it thins down fine with QD enamel thinners, and says something about being enamel on the label, its the JP high grade satin fuel proofer (one part) does this mean I have to redo all the fuel proofing on the DF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I should hope that if it's sold as fuel proofer it ought to do the job! A bit of advice that I'm usually in too much of a hurry to adhere to is to let fuel proofer dry for at least a week before using the model but I've moved to using water based skinning varnish for many applications which appears fully fuel proof overnight - and easy to slosh around a tank bay and under a cowling, even if a finer finish is required outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 A word of advice - I used PolyC on top of Solartex, mainly to seal the weave to keep it cleaner. Although the blurb says it is fuel proof it's not proving to be. The raw 10% nitro fuel lifts it into a rubbery mess, and the exhaust residue does the same. It might be good with lower levels of nitro, but it's been a bit of a problem for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 The JP fuel proofer is polyurethane and is a good fuel proofer. It looks and smells like Ronseal Polyurethane and I have used that in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Posted by Peter Miller on 14/09/2014 08:16:20: The JP fuel proofer is polyurethane and is a good fuel proofer. It looks and smells like Ronseal Polyurethane and I have used that in the past. Phew thats a relief though I can see where my confusion came from, it says on the jar "thin if required with J perkins enamels thinners" obviously polyurethane can be thinned with enamel thinners, not something I was aware of but then my paints knowledge is pretty limited, Does anyone know if they make a gloss version, as I want to coat the varnished woodwork on the Df with something gloss, the satin is good for the solartex but the woodwork really needs to be gloss and it would be easier if I can airbrush it on. and the 2 pack stuff is a nightmare to clean out of an airbrush. Edit: actually change that question does any one know who stocks it as a quick search on the perkins web site reveals they do Edited By Phil Winks on 14/09/2014 09:14:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Yes, My tin is gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Yep - used polyurethane spray varnish, 2K, Acid Cat. Lacquer all to good effect! Edited By Stevo on 16/09/2014 17:47:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks fellas question answered and suitable gloss fuelproofer on its way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Picking up on Fatscoleymo's post I have also found the same thing. Being mainly electric the only fuel proofer I had for a recently finished model was years old and congealed - but I did have a lot of PolyC so reading of its fuel proofing ability I ladled on a few coats. It was around a month later that I got around to the maiden flight and found exactly the same. Trying to wipe the model clean was fruitless so now I have a white fuselage with off white streaks around the nose and any sort of cleaning shows the coating to be rubbery and sticky. Need to try and find some way of getting back to the bare Solartex and then using a normal fuel proofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Strange as it seems I always "fuel proof" the front of my electric models......it stops water from a damp strip soaking into the wooden firewall etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Posted by Fatscoleymo on 14/09/2014 07:23:52: A word of advice - I used PolyC on top of Solartex, mainly to seal the weave to keep it cleaner. Although the blurb says it is fuel proof it's not proving to be. The raw 10% nitro fuel lifts it into a rubbery mess, and the exhaust residue does the same. It might be good with lower levels of nitro, but it's been a bit of a problem for me. It can't be worse than Flair Satin Fuel Proofer, I tried it on my Black Horse Macchi and it just lifts away after contact with 5% fuel even if it's cleaned up within minutes. Model looks like it's got mange now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I've always used Falcon Skincrylic which I've assumed to be the same floor varnish as PolyC (I don't believe that many products marketed for our hobby are specifically manufactured for us) which has worked brilliantly for me - although I haven't used it over raw Solartex. Perhaps it doesn't bond to it like it does to paint or bare wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Martin - you could have just hit the nail on the head there. Area's that were painted (including the ply gear doors and ABS cowl) and then proofed are OK. So it could be that, as you say, PolyC may not bond so well to 'saw' Solartex. I'll do a little experimenting over the next week and see if that's the case. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Well .... I was mistaken. I've just put a little fuel (10% nitro) onto painted and 'raw' Solartex and the PolyC has detached from both areas. I'll be thinking a different route in future. Shame 'cos it's so easy and quick to apply. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hoping that wouldn't be the case Steve! So need to look around for another fuel proofer now but the question is whether I apply that over the existing PolyC, or somehow (?) get the PolyC off and apply proofer directly on the Solartex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Posted by Colin Bernard on 18/09/2014 17:12:05: Hoping that wouldn't be the case Steve! So need to look around for another fuel proofer now but the question is whether I apply that over the existing PolyC, or somehow (?) get the PolyC off and apply proofer directly on the Solartex. sounds like fuel is one way to remove polyc lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Colin - why not try a little fuel on an inconspicuous area and see how it is? I've cleaned off the 'rubbery' residue with some Detatcheur (it's used for stains / marks in clothes) we get here in France, and it comes up ok. You may be able to live with it. The fuel I use is Model Technics Formula Irvine 10% - maybe your fuel will not react as much? Good luck!!! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Well just tried with some isopropyl alcohol and it looks like it worked a treat. Certainly all clean again and not sticky at the moment. Will see what it looks like in the morning before I head for the LMS for something better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Double post for some reason! Edited By Colin Bernard on 19/09/2014 21:18:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuey Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Hi, I have just bought some Hobby Flight enamel paint, and I will be repainting a part of my Seagull Sea Fury. I will be keying up the film and cleaning with IA before painting. Because I have money to burn it has a SC 1.08 two stroke, running on 10% nitro Contest 10 glow fuel (which I use in everything). I will need to fuel proof it, and I'm not sure what to try. I will be doing my best to make sure the film has adhered properly first, but it could still be prone to the odd wrinkle.I have used the old Warbirds colour clear on another model, but it has started to go through it. I also have some Aerokote, but I'm not sure how it will handle any wrinkling which could happen. Any suggestions or feedback please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 I would suggest, after the advice I've had on here, that you use the JP high grade fuel proofer, it appears its a good product available in both gloss and satin, and the enamel thinners you use to clean your brushes from the hobby flight enamel paint will clean the brushes after using the fuel proofer, just make sure you leave it the recomended times before re-coating and before using fuel in the model it does need the full week at room temp to fully cure these two here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Klass Kote Epoxy clear is the Bees Knees, comes as a 2 part, gloss and you can get a flatting agent to make it as matt as you like, cured in 24 hours and is proof against everything model related including 100% Nitro methane rubbed on with a cloth and sitting on it for an hour ! Test Results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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