Puppeteer mk1 and mk2

[GONZO]

Just got myself a Flair Scout Series Puppeteer kit new and complete sans decals, wheels, gun, pilot, etc for £77. Its got the balsa ribs and tracing paper style plans which I understand makes it a mk1. Is there any significant changes between the mk1 and mk2 that would be advisable to incorporate? I've read some build threads that mention mods that are applicable to both. A list would be useful if anyone can provide one of the differences between the two marks.

Thanks in advance.

[Geoff S]

I have a Mk1 Puppeteer (and an SE5a) but I don't know what the differences are - if any.

One thing I would advise is to modify the interpalne strut mountings They're a pain on both models. The attachments are metal plates that epoxy to the appropriate rib and then the struts themselves attach with nuts and bolts - that's 8 tiny hard to access 3mm or 6BA fixings every time you assemble or dissemble the plane. Plus the attachments tend to unstick from the ribs.

Even if you use the nut and bolt method make a ply plate to take the mounting and stick it to the ribs before building ther wing or, at least make preparations to attach it as soon as the wing is complete.. I would try the method DB use on the Tiggie I'm working on now. See DB's web site for details but it uses split cotters as eyes on the wings and a hook at the bottom of the interpalne strut with anoth split cotter at the top. The tops are attached simply by sliding a 2mm wire through all the eyes and holding with an eleastic band - I'm using a 14 plain gauge stainless bike spoke because I have lots in stock from my wheel building days. fast and easy.

Geoff

[Braddock, VC]

If the Mk2 puppeteer is anything like the mk 2 magnatilla, then you have the best of the bargain.

The mk 2 has a laminated firewall, liteply wingribs. There are a few detail differences that are neither here nor there.

The die crushing on the liteply wing ribs leaves or rather left a lot to be desired and somewhere in my loft I still have the 1/2" 7 ply birchplywood firewall that the original maggie sported back in 82.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Long ago, I bought a second hand Mk? Puppeteer which nearly met a sticky end due to the lower wing pins detaching from the structure - it behaved oddly on one flight - I landed, taxied back, checked the control surfaces etc, took off and flung it about a bit whereupon it entered a shallow dive with (eventually) full up elevator and the leading edge hanging down significantly - luckily I managed to arrive on a downslope of a similar angle to the flight path!

I then found that the little "box" assembly which carries the pins was (un)glued to the wing skin - which I thought was a build error - but some time later I came across some Flair plans which appeared to show that same method. Perhaps it changed on the Mk2 ?

My repair involved letting in a ply plate to a rebate in the leading edge, which seemed a better method and has stood the test of time.

Edited By Martin Harris on 28/10/2015 20:40:31

[Andy Butler]

Gonzo,

The easiest way to tell them apart (having built both) is that the Mk 1 has a solid firewall and the Mk 2 has a large square hole in the middle. On the Mk 2, the tank box attaches to the back of the firewall and the engine bearers fit inside the tank box and extend through with large ply webs for extra stability. With the Mk 1 you're pretty much on your own to sort out engine mounting although they suggest taking the engine backplate off and bolting directly to the firewall, so a kind of radial mount effect.

I'm currently building a Mk 1 but mine is electric. For battery access the whole forward fuselage top is removable, held with a dowel at the front and magnets on the rear. Odd though that mine came with lite ply ribs, warps and all. Those wing dowels are better on the Mk 1 as they extend back through the dihedral brace and attach all the way along the adjacent rib. If I were to build another Mk 2 I would do that too.

[Jon H]

The MkI is far better than the MkII. Proper wood and also decent plans. The MkII has the plans on about 5 A3 reversible sheets that you are supposed to stick together. The instructions are also scattered all over the plans and not in a separate booklet. The current Fokker DVII is the same.

The biggest issue with the MkII is the fact that the engine mount is an integral part of the fuselage and it means fitting anything other than a 40 2 stroke is much more difficult than it used to be.

for 77 quid you have a monster deal. All you need is a 50ish 4 stroke and its job done!

[GONZO]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Its defo a mk1:- two large plans and separate instructions, one piece solid engine firewall (the plans show an upright 4st installation), balsa ribs and the wing dowels extend back. Have a selection of 52 and 70 4st to choose from although I may have to use a false firewall to the rear of the original due to engine length. Going to read up some more on the option of a split fus' and keep it rigged. I've got the WB wheels, gun and dummy engine - cost me almost as much as the kit, ouch! Still three rolls of Solartex don't come cheap either. Thanks again for your input.