Highside Glider

[Lindsay Todd]

Hi Matty, published Highside is the Mk1 thicker section of my own development / fault nice and stable but capable. the Mk2 wing which you refer to is again of my own development. If I could be bothered going through the list of sections I could probably find a match, as you can with most, but they are based on my own developments and designs. PS nothing wrong with a good old Clark Y, just depends on what you want it to do. The Mk1 plan has what I would describe as a slight semi symmetrical but is fully capable of all your basic aerobatics. The 2nd generation wing might well be available in the future if there is sufficient interest. Linds

[Two Six]

I have started building a Highside. I am using the parts kit from SLEC and I have started a build blog here:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.msg186453;topicseen#new

I will have some questions about how to build this thing as I have never built a balsa aircraft before. I think I will post my questions here as I am likely to get some better answers here rather on a multi-rotor forum.

Some questions I have now.

How best to cut the rebate for the 3mm piano wire elevator joiner/hinge?

How best to make the profile of the elevator and rudder, the way they tapers towards the trailing edge?

[kc]

Two Six. I notice in your build blog that you say the plasterboard has warped - make sure you use a flat piece! Just as likely that the plasterboard will pull any supporting timber into a warp. Fatal and waste of balsa to build on a warped board.

A round groove can be formed from a V cut with a scalpel and then rounded by pressing with the end of the piano wire and dragging it along the V cut..

Sanding is the method of tapering elevators specified earlier in this thread. Glasspaper glued ( or double sided taped) onto a wood block is often used, but I prefer a Permagrit block which removes wood much faster. Expensive but you only need the Wedge block. A Razor plane is another way to shape balsa and is a useful tool to have at a few pounds.

[Two Six]

Thanks KC, I managed to cut the slot for the wire, it was quite tricky but it went well in the end, I think its going to work OK. Phew. I am wondering now about the instructions to cut the elevator in half and how that will work when it comes to fitting it to the tail/horizontal stabiliser. Is that the hinge, the wire or do I need some other hinges, I do have some mylar hinges somewhere I was going to use.

I also have managed to sand a light taper to the elevator, that went OK too.

Well spotted about the warped plaster board. It is only very slightly warped and the last time I did clamp the plaster board firmly to a flat board.

The tail parts I have made so far are nice and flat. However I am going to need to watch that carefully, I might try the board/cork tiles method next.

I also need to get some snakes/control rods, I was looking at what SLEC have and I am thinking about getting these: http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/1000mm--39----Light--Weight-Snake-Set-SL025_R.html Would they be good? I know its a bit early to be thinking about control rods but I need some epoxy to glue in the wire thing so I might as well get any other bits I will need in the order.

In fact can anybody recommend some of the other bits I will need, like servos?

[Andy G.]

Two six.. a quick question, the SLEC kit price seems quite reasonable!y priced, is it just a Short kit of the more intricate parts or is it pretty much a full wood kit?? Good luck with your build, I'm seriously thinking of building one.

[Two Six]

Hi Andy G, SLEC do three kits, the CNC parts kit , the wood pack and the complete kit.

http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/RCME-Specials.html.

The complete kit contains both kits with a price discount and it contains no other parts like snakes and control horns.

Here is a scan of the parts you get in the CNC pack. The wood kit contains all the other balsa strips and sheets you need and the spruce spars. I hope that helps.

[kc]

Two Six, I have not built this model or even seen the plan so my comments are based on other models. Generally I would use the ribbed SLEC snakes as they will have less friction. Make sure you use the correct end fittings ( Metric M2 for SLEC) and don't mix them with american thread types used on ARTF models etc. The threads are very similar but one will slip in the other under load. So snakes, threaded end, rods and clevis ( if metal) must all be the same thread ( same make)

Hinges will be needed - the elevator does not normally pivot on the piano wire The 'furry' ( cyano) hinges seem popular now. SLEC sell them. there is a video on how to fix them somewhere on Youtube. Most people hinge after covering but prepare the slots before covering. SLEC sell a slot 'centrer' gadget as it's important to get all the hinges in line. Normally 4 hinges to an elevator this size - dont put them exactly where the joiner goes but one needs to be quite near the horn to avoid strain. Hinges must not pull out under load or a crash will ensue. Do a test on a scrap piece to check your glue technique works.

Normally if the elevator is made in one piece the wire joiner is inserted and glued then the halves are seperated when dry. If you make the elevator in two parts it's tricky to put the joiner in and still keep it flat. Make sure the wire joiner is bent exactly at 90 degrees. Practice drilling the hole for joiner in a scrap piece -it's not easy and you need a tight fit to avoid slop. Preferrably use a drilling machine and machine vice to achieve exact vertical holes. protect the balsa from vice jaws with scrap balsa. Easier to drill before tapering elevator! ( difficult to hold a tapered bit vertical)

So these are general comments to help you - perhaps Lindsay will reply with more detail.

Edited By kc on 26/01/2017 19:56:58

[Andy G.]

Thanks Two Six! Seriously thinking of getting the full kit then.

[Paul Hampshire]

I am really enjoying building the Highside Glider. Bought the short kit and wood pack from SLEC UK. We have a slope soaring blog that focuses on all types of slope soaring models and I have created a build blog page for the Highside Glider having taken pictures all along as the build has progressed. I'm don't claim to be a fantastic builder but I have thoroughly enjoyed this balsa build.  Highside Glider Build Blog                                                                               

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 10/11/2017 09:53:07

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 10/11/2017 09:54:35

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 10/11/2017 09:54:54

[Two Six]

Great! Some more help! Thanks for letting me know about your blog Paul.

My build has stalled since early spring due to some nasty stuff going down but I have just started building the wings now and I have found some enthusiasm for building it again. I will certainly read your blog carefully. I need all the help I can get.

Actually I got a PM from a guy who has been building one too, he has some very relevant comments about short-falls in the plan and how he got round them.

He said this:

"I'm about half way through the build (hopefully ?. I'm finding a frustrating lack of detail in places. Particularly fitting the wing. A clear fuselage cross selections would have helped. The angle of the cut-away diagram in the magazine hides the complex central area.

So far I've noted:

* The precut kit cockpit area extends too far back.

* The ply plates to hold the wing bolt appear not to have make it to the kit.

* No mention is made of fitting the ply supports for the rear ends of the front wing securing dowels. Which need to be in place before the wing front sheeting . Plus I'm still figuring out the orientation. I'm guessing the dowels are angled down at the front. Fortunately I've only sheeted the front top of the wings, so can fix this.

* F3 is an oddity. I see you also like the idea of putting it in upside down?

* After much puzzling, I went for putting the wing sheet over the top of the leading and trailing edges and sanded to suit. ( I am actually used to butt joining there. ) This proved in conflict with the wood available, as four inch sheet was needed, so had to find some wider sheets. Against the butt joining, I'd failed to figure out how one mated the sheet and the wing tip triple thickness. I'm guessing now that it went over the extra layers and butt joined the leading edge proper."

Hummmmmm

 

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 10:40:32

[Paul Hampshire]

Hi Two Six. If I can help in any way then please feel free to ask away. I'm no expert and lack a lot pf balsa building knowledge but its always helpful to chat with someone who has been there and had to overcome the same problems. Its a real pity that the model doesn't come with a decent set of build Instructions. This would make this a great model for the wider market. I know a certain level of building experience is required for a plan build model but how can you get the experience first. I love the kit but have enjoyed it a whole lot more with a pragmatic step by step build instructions. That's the reason why I started taking pictures as I went along to try and help others or to get some feed back from others how they have done it...........

[Two Six]

Reading you blog now, I can't see the pictures for some reason. The wing seat bit....I hope I haven't messed up already. I have glued the two halves together and did nothing special.

 

Actually I can see them using Chrome.  Waterfox isn't showing them....

 

Great blog!  This will be super-Helpful  I am doing a blog too:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:06:09

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:07:30

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:17:43

[Paul Hampshire]

Build almost complete:

To see the build develop from the start

[Paul Hampshire]

Now covered and virtually ready to go.

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 21/11/2017 11:29:20

[Paul Hampshire]

The maiden flight of my Highside glider at Cissbury Ring in West Sussex

 

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:05:38

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:08:33

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:09:01

[Two Six]

That's great that is! Well done!

It flies really well and it looks like it makes the most of moderate lift and has a nice flat glide.

I have started building a wing now and so far so good, it all looks OK. Hopefully I won't mess it up.

I need to have a talk with you about how to proceed with the balsa wing sheeting, the wing tips, the dowels and the wing fastening bolt before I can proceed much more. I will try to PM you.

I might build the canopy part before I do the wing tips as I am not sure how much wood I have to make the wing tips with. I like the idea of solid wing tips and I can't see how the plan wants me to do them.

I really hope mine flies like your one does. With a big helping of luck it might just work....

[Two Six]

I have updated my build blog now Paul, you can see where I am with my build.

I have a few questions there about a few things I am not too sure about. Things like, the sheeting, the wing joining, fixing it to the fuselage, and the wing tips.....

Any tips or comments would be very helpful.

My build blog is here: http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

[Paul Hampshire]

Having flown my Highside glider now on three occasions now, I feel I can comment on its performance with a little more knowledge.

Its second flight was in light conditions. One of those days that you have to fly the model with the least input to try and maintain the little height you have gained. Making every turn as gentle as possible but the Highside does lose out on its turns.

The third flight was in much better lift. The glider climbed well and with some height it could loop, roll well and just about maintain inverted flight. Its penetration wasn't too bad as my Highside is on the heavy side. Speed and energy retention isn't good but this must be expected given its size and wing profile.

My Highside has been nick named the Easybrick. Given its colour and performance. Some people can be so cruel!

I must say the model flies really well as long as you don't expect too much from her. She is very stable with no bad habits that I have noticed. Slows to nothing on landing. very responsive ailerons but a week elevator for aerobatics.

The joy for me was the building and the flying has been a very welcome addition. Mine will be accompanying me to the slope together with my F3F model and my M60.

If you are new to model building and want a challenge buy one of these gliders and you wont be disappointed if you can manage without a decent set of instructions.

I hope you enjoy my blog build. Click here to view

[Two Six]

I have done a little more to my Highside now.

My build blog is updated here:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

[Two Six]

I have added some new info on my build blog, here:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Guys

Old thread, I know, but I hope there's someone lurking who can answer a question.

So, planning on this for my next build. Got the cnc and wood pack from SLEC and the pull out plan from the magazine. Also three build logs on tap.
Pretty much got everything clear in my mind except for how to do the leading edge. In his build log, Lindsay seem to indicate that the le is fitted first and planed down to the rib section, then the le sheet is fitted over it.
However the plan shows the sheet butted up to the rear edge of the le. In addition, the wood supplied by SLEC is only wide enough to do it this way.
Recall I saw this mentioned in another blog, where the builder replaced the sheet with wider stock.
Seems a lot of these models have been built, so how did you do it?

Thanks

Jeff

[Lindsay Todd]

In the original as i was using stock sheet in the workshop and simply my own process of doing things, shaping the leading edge and then overlapping the sheeting would be my normal route however fitting the leading edge then butt gluing the sheet before blending works just as well and you should have no issues or strength implications. Highside has a tough old wing. Linds

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Lindsay

Thanks for that. Nothing better than getting info direct from the designer.

In the same vein, what would you recommend as wing servos?

I have Emax ES09's available, but they seem a bit 'weedy' at 2.3Kg, or HS82's, bit better at 2.7, or 3.4 at 6v.

Your thoughts?

Jeff

[Lindsay Todd]

hi jeff bit of a hitec man so HS85MG would always be my personal preference but i am sure there are others equal to them in truth but you tend to stick with what you know to be reliable and also what is on the worshop shelf at the time i find. I must get round to the Highside Extreme Plan at some point, much more aggressive design with fully symetrical section and big movements all good fun. Linds

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Lindsay.

Thanks for that, Hitec it is then.

Jeff