Andy Meade Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 I've had unsatisfactory results from water based varnishes on airframes too many times now - epoxy is the way forward for me from now on too Don't worry about that weight - PLENTY of wing area to help out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I'm having difficulty locating where the drop tanks should be positioned. Anyone able to advise me how far from the centre line they should be positioned please? Many thanks Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 around half span, or just outboard of the tailplane tips, Ade. Edited By Phil Cooke on 02/08/2016 23:20:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John A H Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 My drop tanks are 27mm inboard of rib R5, which is a bit further out than the tailplane tips. I worked it out using the wingspan from scale drawing; I suspect the reason why they have ended up a bit further out in relation to the tailplane is because of the wings been slightly stretched. Wish I had noticed the relationship to the tailplane tips dooh ! That's some scale points deducted already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Having produced various decal sets to support the A4 builds, I thought it useful to pass on some tips. Some of the sets contain trad waterslide decals and these can be difficult to apply to matt paint finishes, film covering and overlays on vinyl decals. The technique described here is applicable for all finishes as it provides a solid adhesion that is water resistant, 1. Applying on Matt Paint finishes, If your not careful its difficult to get the decals to stick and they 'show' against the matt finish. The technique is to paint the surface where the decal is to go with a Gloss clear acrylic, I use Tamyia Gloss clear X22, which is crystal clear and resists yellowing with age, the tip is to apply it with a wetted in water paint brush to thin it slightly and slow it drying time. Then apply the decal, I then brush down with a wet brush to remove the traces of gloss and then dab very gently with a kitchen tissue. Once dry overcoat with a matt WBU, or acrylic spray, I tend to use Wilko Matt Water Based Varnish which is cheap and works a treat. Example being applied to My Hack Nigel Hawes Tucano, this is finished in Matt Dulux (tester Pot) which is then overcoated with Wilco Matt Clear WBU, don't try and apply direct to a matt emulsion finish with out sealing the finish first. Applying the Tamiya X22 Clear Gloss Dabbing the decal with Kitchen Roll Example of EJT Triangle Both these pictures before applying sealing coat of Matt Clear, which once applied makes the decal backing almost invisible and seals in the decals against the elements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 The example here are using Matt Jones Decal set which has a decal overlay on cut vinyl markings. Applying the decal to the vinyl which is coated with Tamiya X22 Clear Some finished results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Many thanks for the excellent tutorial Tim, that's really useful and very timely as many A-4s are approaching this milestone of decal application! Much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Can I ask where you lot are hiding the switch on the A4. I'm almost at the porvisional placing of R/C gear and I would like to 'hide' the switch. Is the wire rod the preferred option? Push in to switch 'on'? Cheers Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 yes a good question Ade... needs to be considered to avoid ruining the scale lines... I was lazy on the prototype and simply fitted it to the top spine, including the Futaba ON/OFF plate - which didn't look too clever in the photos... Pete Garsden used a very neat 'magnetic' switch on his Israeli A-4 - which had no external visible features but for a small diameter hole - easily 'passed' as a scale feature. I think on my 'production' model Ill be mounting it on the spine again, but at a height so the top of the switch is flush with the fuselage profile, and I wont fit the Futaba ON/OFF plate. This will just leave a 3/16" black square visible in plan view - and no evidence in profile. There are a couple of vents on the top side of the full size, so it could be positioned to represent on of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Top vent visible in this shot on a scale model... just ahead of the warning light. I will flush mount my switch here to represent this feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Thats a good idea Phil, although I was toying with the idea of using the 'fin' just behind the canopy as the extended swicth mechanism. Will it give me credence with my peers though.............. Life is a learning curve.............that gets steeper.............. Cheers Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 A bit more about Skyhawks. The team here called 'Sky Resources' are capable of multi-roles in use as a camera drone or other accessory, available for film or movie shoots. These professionals have aircraft ready for contract hire to specialized operators and military contractors. Also their have recent experience as target drone tugs and as mock dog-fight/aggressor training simulation. The aircraft and personnel available for any special event or airshow. Our team will deliver the aircraft wherever needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Woah! love the colours on '128'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Re Switch. used a magnetic switch from T9 Hobbysport which I installed just over the wing on the port side You can't see it at all. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Re Switch. used a magnetic switch from T9 Hobbysport which I installed just over the wing on the port side You can't see it at all. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Re Switch. used a magnetic switch from T9 Hobbysport which I installed just over the wing on the port side You can't see it at all. The way it works is that the section with an S is where you swipe the magnet. At the other end is a blue pilot light, which shines though a hole in the fuselage. When you swipe the magnet across it comes on and the same for off. This circuit board, of course sits inside the fuselage and senses the magnet through the wood or fibreglass **LINK** Edited By Peter Garsden on 24/06/2017 17:13:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Interesting Peter, practical and useful for a scale installation. Firstly the pilot ejected safely after a engine failure. Another interesting and different video, a team climb up to the hills around Anza - Borrego area looking for the wreckage of a A4 Skyhawk. The Douglas A-4A Skyhawk Bu No 137828 based out of Los Alamitos Naval Air Station, Naval Air Reserve Squadron 776 crashed on 17th July 1968 in the Anza- Borrego area Pilot: Lt. Jerry P. Shafer, USN ejecting safely due to engine failure. Especially watch at video time - 3:50 - when the whole tailplane is moved and seems very light. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 25/06/2017 07:45:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Could some kind moderator remove my duplicate posts please. I wish I knew how this happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheppard Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Hi all I am considering the A4 for my first PSS. What sort of lift does it need.I fly on Dartmoor and the south Devon coast Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 I would say you need about 15mph minimum - maybe get away with 10mph but wouldn't chance it. I have seen them fly in 35 to 50mph at the top end quite happily. They aren't a floater. I would say ideal wind is 20 to 25mph, which is true of most PSS models to be fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 Hi Steve - thanks for your interest in building the A-4! No-ones flown their Skyhawk more than Pete (I recall him finishing his well before the Mass Build event) so I would go with his description - Only to add - the A-4 wing loading is ~18oz/sq ft with a wing built as per the plan and with an AUW of 2.5lb, some were built lighter, some heavier. Equate that to a typical sports model like a Phase 6 (yes, I still live in the 80's) of ~14 oz/sq ft and you start to get a feel for the models lifting characteristics... That said the A-4 won't slow up like a sports model - they need to be flown in - any hanging on the elevator at low speeds will drive a tip stall, nothing to be afraid of - but to be aware of! No question it's a model best suited to good hills with a medium wind strength - I've flown mine in much, much more and it handles high winds well too, but I'd be too chicken to chuck it off in anything less than 15mph even on a good coastal slope like the Orme. Edited By Phil Cooke on 20/11/2018 19:24:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheppard Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Thanks Pete and Phil I think I will bite the bullet and order the short kit. Where do you get decals now? The model markings website is closed. Thanks again Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Current favourites are Pyramid Models, or Callie Graphics. Even though Callie is Stateside, delivery is quick, and quality excellent. Make sure you do a build blog! Hmm, I was just making the hyperlinks and it seems Pyramid have some building work going on, so you may get delays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sheppard Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 My short kit has arrived, I have 2 F2's. There is no F9 . This would have been useful as it has a round hole in it and also forms the shape of the fuselage at the back. I have all the extra wood but cannot locate a suitable pilot . Any ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I seem to remember that we sourced the pilot from Real Model Pilots. If you look at this page of my model build blog you can see the pilot that I used and the paint colours I chose **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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