Olly P Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hi all, The mag arrived the other day and while keeping an eye on my 2 year old, I had a quick flick through, and he sat on the sofa next too me. "what you doing?" "I'm looking at my new magazine" I then turned to the page with the view of the Vector: "Want that aeroplane, whoosh!" The long and short of it is, despite not wanting any more projects this year, it looks like I've got one. I'm going to use the thread as a way of making and sharing notes and thoughts as I build. Contributions welcome. Part 1 then - pricing up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 OK, now I have got the little one to bed, The cost will break down into 3 main areas as I see it. I will be able to do a large proportion of the model from stock (I hope!). However in the interests of completeness I will do a complete purchasing list and make a note of anything extra I use, and knock off things I don't. I will warn you all though, this is going to be a very slow build. I need to finish sorting the shed out first. The components as I see it split into 3 main areas: Wood Covering and sundry hardware Electronics I'm going to start with the last first, Electronics wise you need the power train, the Rx, a battery and 2 servos. Power train: I have found the required bits on BRC Hobbies: a 1500kV out runner in the 2812 form, and a matching ESC - rated at 20A. £14.80 The Rx - I'm going to leave this alone as everyone will have personal favorites and need to match the Tx. Battery - Most Electric Fliers will have batteries in the popular 3S 2200mA configuration, I certainly do; but just in case BRC do a reasonable one here for £9.90 Finally you will need a propeller to suit the motor, the recommended one from the plan is a 7x5, a pusher can be found here at BRC, for £2.75 Nearly Forgot - connectors for the ESC/Motor (£3.95) and for the ESC battery leads(£2.50). again both examples are BRC. You will also want some heat shrink tube, but that is easy enough to find. Servos - 2 servos are needed for this model, And I wil use some of my stock. If I had to buy however I would be tempted by these at £4.95 each. NOTE none of the pricing is a recommendation about suitability or the supplier. I am just showing people where I am looking and keeping track for my own purposes, there may be cheaper sources, and you should always assess suitability for yourself, not assume it is right because 'some bloke on-line said so' Next I'll try and work out what wood is needed..... Edited By Olly P on 09/02/2016 22:08:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Balsa: I have worked through the plan and come up with a list of wood needed. I think I have covered everything, but if I have missed something, someone will shout out I'm sure. I'm going to try a table for this one, all prices are from SLEC, all sheets are 3" by 36" and all strips are 36", the others are as noted. Description Hardness Qty Cost Ea Line Cost 1/4 Sheet Medium 9 £ 1.67 £ 15.03 1/4 sq strip 6 £ 0.32 £ 1.92 1/8 sheet Medium 5 £ 1.25 £ 6.25 1/8 sheet hard 3 £ 1.25 £ 3.75 1/8 liteply small 12" Sq 1 £ 1.09 £ 1.09 1/8 Sq LE 2 £ 0.23 £ 0.46 Nose block 1 1/2" x 36" 1 £ 5.47 £ 5.47 1/16 sheet medium 1 £ 0.95 £ 0.95 Total £ 34.92 same caveats as above apply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Think that is enough for tonight - off to bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Next then, covering and sundries: Sundry part first: Control horns - BRC, 5 pack £0.95. only 2 needed but worth having some extras. Snakes, outers and fixings - Pushrod and 'output' end accessories - BRC £1.75 each, 2 needed, £3.50 total. 'input' end parts - 2mm threaded rod and clevis - £1.50 each, 2 needed, £3 total. Covering to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Covering - BRC - Solar film, £5.95/roll, I think 2 rolls will be the max for this one - £11.90 Solar trim - I think 2 colours will be preferred here, so 2 rolls, at £4.50 a reoll - £9. Obviously shipping is on top, but I have not worked it out as I probably won't need everything listed - I think I have some 1/4" sq for example. I have excluded glues, tools, tapes and things used in construction as these will not be single use items. There will now be an extended pause while I get the shed usable, figure out what I already have and get the missing bits ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Just one comment for today - I am hoping to get myself a 3D printer later on this year, dependant upon funds and getting the shed squared away. This looks like it might be a nice model to 3D print, in sections. I might just have to have a go at drawing up and seeing how it could be done in the print envelope of the machine I am looking at.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Watching with interest Olly, the magazine needs more designs like this. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi Olly, It must seem lonely no-one posting , but they are viewing including me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Posted by Richard Harris on 11/02/2016 18:57:56: Watching with interest Olly, the magazine needs more designs like this. Rich If the weather plays ball , The magazine may well get another design that is a little of the wall, by me anyway . Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Thanks guys, nice to know I'm not alone in my little chamber of insanity! As I say will be a slow build as need to do some sorting out first. Managed to sell some stuff last night, so first bit done and 3D printer part funded! If I can sell the rest for what I want for it then the 3D printer will be fully funded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I'll be tagging along with this thread too, even though my mag hasn't arrived yet. My resolution for this year is to step out of my comfort zone and explore a more diverse range of models to fly. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Subscribed to the thread with interest. What is the strength of 3D printed parts V's balsa or lite ply and the equivalent weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 John - Depends on many variables, how you print it, (grain direction in effect) temperature, cooling period, layer thickness, all sorts. Not even sure on weight. I have been casting my eye around looking for a nice design to try it out on, and while you can purchase pre-done 3D printing plans for Spitfires etc, I really fancied trying something of my own. I think I will end up making 2 of these at least - one trad-build, and 1 3D print, but they may not be ready at the same time, and as I say a slow burn on both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I to am taken by this design it appeals to my liking for hi tech composite aircraft , I've got 1 model on the board (Pilates pc6) The Tony Nijuis mossie and 1of my own design to be called Le_B Riot a Bleriot x1 variation ,so I'll be following your build Ollie. Happy building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Hi Olly, Glad to see you're thinking of building a Vector. I'll be interested to see how you get on. If you use the BRC 2812 1500 Kv motor You will need a 6 x 6.5 prop. That was the motor I originally used on the prototype. Remember to pick really hard quarter grain balsa for the 'tailplane', pretty much everything else can be medium light. good luck and happy building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Forgot to mention - You don't need a specialist pusher prop, just use a standard one, put it on backwards and run the motor in reverse. that way the torque reaction still works to the left as we are used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Forgot to mention - You don't need a specialist pusher prop, just use a standard one, put it on backwards and run the motor in reverse. that way the torque reaction still works to the left as we are used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Correction sorry - In my previous post I recommended a 6 x 6.5 prop for the BRC setup - my mistake, on closer examination it's a 6 x 5.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Thanks Pete. Did you draw this up using CAD at all? If so can I be cheeky and ask for a copy of the file to turn it into a 3D printable version? I'm looking at spliting it down into sections that can be 3D printed on most 3D printers and haveing simple 'pin and socket' glue joints where needed. If not then I'll draw it up, but in the interest of saving time having the base file would be very useful. This is still going to be a 'slow burn' project, as I need to purchase a 3D printer yet, but would be nice to get somewhere with it. Obviously I'll not re-sell or use the cad for any commercial purpose, and send you the adapted file back for your control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disciple of Autogyros Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hi Olly and Pete (and everyone else) I'm starting the build later today, I did the reading, bought the balsa, thanks for the list Olly, and cut out most of the shapes. There are only two things bothering me..... Firstly this forum has gone very quiet? nothing added since 29th Feb. Is there anyone out there? Secondly, I'm unclear about the Tailplane, specifically the comment on the plans, Note:Position of Joint line Important do not change" Does this relate to the joint of two lengths of 1/8" balsa for the Tailplane or the fin joint? Or have I completely missed the point? (be gentle with me!) If anyone has any photos during the build of this bit it would be real helpful. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hi Mike The Joint line referred to is the join between the two pieces of balsa necessary to get the grain directions right for the tip. However it is also the point at which you angle up the tips to produce the dihedral effect, and that's why the position of the line is important. The combination of the various angles means that the incidence of the tip is effected by the position of that line. In the same way the angle of the wing tips where the tail joins plus the slope of the tailplane gives the overall tail incidence. You'll find that the two joints don't quite line up, there is a slight overlap. Don't worry it's supposed to be like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disciple of Autogyros Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Hi Pete, Thanks for the reply, however I realised last night when looking at the plan of the tailplane I had visualised it in my mind with the "thin" end of the tailplane joining the wing EG the wrong way round. Derr!!!. This epiphany came to me following a medicinal Whisky. So with your info and my cranial re-programming of visual reality, I'm back on track. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Thorne Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Hi all This is my first build. I am pretty well into it. I have cut out all of the main parts and spent yesterday shaping and sanding down the main wings. A bit like Mike Wilson above, I think that I am missing the point on one thing, and that is connecting the main wings to the wing root. If anyone has any photos or advice to help point me in the right direction. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Collins Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Hi Mike The wings are just glued together as a single piece and then the reinforcing piece WR is glued on underneath to strengthen the joint. The fuz sides are then threaded onto the wing so that they fit snugly up to WR and the fuselage is built in situ. A quick read of the build article in the mag should help. Cheers - I hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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