John Tee Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Hi. I have a lot of empty model memory numbers and want to do a bit of housekeeping and remove the empty ones. Trying to use the copy function for the first time and after pushing the wrong buttons at first to save to the new model number it works, to a point. Reading the manual it gives the impression that you can select the new model number to copy to. When I try to select the model number I want it goes up one number - in my case from 14 to 15 - but I want to move from 14 to 5. if I decrease the model number it goes back to 14 (master) or back the other way to 15 (slave). Have I read something wrong or pushed the wrong buttons. Anyone who has used this function your help would be appreciated. Thanks John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Are there no Hitec users out there today? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Knly just seen this post... I'll have a fiddle and see if I can work something out, or not as the case may be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Hi John, I think I might be able to help by stepping through the process: If you have a HPP-22 programmer save all your model data to a PC before doing anything else (shout if you need a step through for that) With Tx switched off hold down both edit buttons and switch on Select a model number in the usual fashion (14 for you), this will be your master model memory. M.SEL is the only place you can change the master model memory. Scroll through to the COPY function. MAS should be displayed and MODEL 14. You cannot change the master model memory at this point - goto to step 3 to do that. Press either of the cursor keys to toggle from the MAS display to SLV (slave) display, a number will be flashing below MODEL, indicating that this is data that you can change using the Data + and - buttons to select the slave model memory (for you this will be model 5) Now then, you have to be careful with this bit, cleanly depress both Data buttons at exactly the same time, hitting one slightly before the other will change the model memory number, don't let that happen as the copy operation will happen very quickly afterwards and if the memory number has changed then it will overwrite the indicated model memory. There will be two quick little bleeps and again be careful now, cleanly release both data buttons at exactly the same time. This time the consequences are not so worrying if you are late releasing the one the buttons. It just changes the selected slave model memory - after the copy operation so no harm done but can be confusing. Switch off the Tx Switch on the Tx whilst holding the two edit buttons down Check the result of the copy operation. If you used the HPP-22 programmer to save your models then you can recover any accidently overwritten model memories (as I have just done!) and you can choose which memory numer to use - so this device is good for organising your model memories too. In effect it means you have limitless model memories you can use, the 16 in the Tx are just the ones currently in the Tx; you can have many more stored on your PC. It's a nice feature Hitec have not very well explained or publicised. Hope that somewhere in that is the help you need. Ian Edited By Ian Jones on 10/05/2016 23:17:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 Ian, You are a gentleman. Followed your instructions and it worked first time. In my manual it states "to select your destination model press the left/right cursor keys. The selected destination memory number is shown by the flashing numeral" It doesn't mention using the data keys to change the number just to save the changes. I've checked the correction leaflet that came with the outfit and that is one correction that has been overlooked. I have seen the other tool you mentioned and will have to invest in one. Many thanks I can now tidy up my list of models. John Edited By John Tee on 11/05/2016 12:21:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 Sorry if you lost any model settings trying to sort out my problem. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 Hi again Ian. I know I'm pushing my luck but perhaps you can help me again. Having transferred the model from 14 to 5 successfully I now can't erase no14. My manual says after getting into the menus to select flashing "REST" and the press the data together keys as before. I have done this but the model name still shows up after turning the Tx off/on. Is this normal? Sorry to be a pain in the backside. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Posted by John Tee on 11/05/2016 12:22:37: Sorry if you lost any model settings trying to sort out my problem. John Wiped one out but as I had already saved it to my PC it took no time at all to reload it so no problem. Model reset, ah yes, I think I remember something funny about that. Busy just at this moment, I'll have a fiddle and come back to you. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 The manual is extensive but poorly written and if you read my review in Sept 2012 you will know I was pretty scathing of it then. The Tx itself and it's 35mhz predecessor have never let me down (touches wood). Hitec servos are good too so, so far as I'm concerned when I read problems people are experiencing with other brands I feel Hitec really messed up with the Eclipse 7 Pro. A better manual and better advertising could have resulted in higher volume sales. That said I now suspect that it was an interim model to keep users such as myself in the fold. If I was to change now I would be taking a serious look at the Flash range but still being totally satisfied with both of my Eclipse 7s (I've got a 2.4gHz module in my old 35mHz model) I won't be changing anytime soon.. Anyway back to John's last question, the answer is a little odd but I've tested it on an empty model memory and found that REST does in fact reset all the data for that model memory... except for the model name. That can lead you to think the reset hasn't worked however I've repeated it lots of times on a spare model memory by programming and resetting and found this to be the case. Perhaps there's a reason for retaining the model name, though it escapes me, either way it's another failing of the manual. By the way my Tx has V1.03 firmware. There's some threads on this forum about the Eclipse 7 Pro so I've collected a few together in case they are useful for anyone: Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro Upgrade Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro HItec Eclipse 7 Pro - Sept 2012 Edition Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hi Ian I have a 7 Pro but have stopped using it as it kept losing signal, had it checked out but no solution does the upgrade rectify this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Ian. Once again thanks. I must admit I didn't think to check the settings as the model name was still there. As you say it just keeps the name and erases the rest. Ive looked at the links and downloaded the upgrade one to study later. I've been a bit wary (scared) to even think of upgrading software so far. Also on version 1.03 This was my first Hitec outfit and I have been impressed in the main, I don't need some of the more advanced features. Been a Futaba fan after coming back into the hobbyin 2000 after using Fleet for years. I now have 7 Optima Rx's 6/7 channel and have never had a single doubt as to it's reliabilty. The manual came with a sheet of corrections - it was version 1 - but it obviously missed a few. I said in a previous thread about not needing a large number of models on a Tx but find that even with 16 on this one I am in danger of filling it up plus my 2 Futaba 6EX Tx's. It is a great help to people like me, that there is someone like yourself who can take the time to find a way round these niggles and pass them on to others. Many thanks again John Edited By John Tee on 12/05/2016 12:38:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Another small thing I found ,was that when binding the Rx for an electric model a seperate battery and switch harness is a must as you have to press the bind button on the Rx and at the same time turn on the power. A bit difficult to do while plugging in a Lipo. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Posted by alan p on 12/05/2016 11:37:46: Hi Ian I have a 7 Pro but have stopped using it as it kept losing signal, had it checked out but no solution does the upgrade rectify this. I doubt the upgrade would fix a faulty Tx, any chance it's an Rx problem? Posted by John Tee on 12/05/2016 12:48:36: Another small thing I found ,was that when binding the Rx for an electric model a seperate battery and switch harness is a must as you have to press the bind button on the Rx and at the same time turn on the power. A bit difficult to do while plugging in a Lipo. John Yes I agree that is much easier. Whatever Tx/Rx system is in use I Think it's always a good idea to bind it well before it's needed and with the Rx laid out on a wooden board. If the Rx is one that requires diversity then with the aerials correctly orientated too. In this arrangement a range check can be carried out in ideal conditions and any problems dealt with before it causes a delay in the build/assembly of the model. More to the point though, if it fails a post installation range then the problem is most likely to be the positioning of the aerials since it's already known the Rx is good. Posted by John Tee on 12/05/2016 12:37:50: Ian. Once again thanks. I must admit I didn't think to check the settings as the model name was still there. As you say it just keeps the name and erases the rest. Ive looked at the links and downloaded the upgrade one to study later. I've been a bit wary (scared) to even think of upgrading software so far. Also on version 1.03 This was my first Hitec outfit and I have been impressed in the main, I don't need some of the more advanced features. Been a Futaba fan after coming back into the hobbyin 2000 after using Fleet for years. I now have 7 Optima Rx's 6/7 channel and have never had a single doubt as to it's reliabilty. The manual came with a sheet of corrections - it was version 1 - but it obviously missed a few. I said in a previous thread about not needing a large number of models on a Tx but find that even with 16 on this one I am in danger of filling it up plus my 2 Futaba 6EX Tx's. It is a great help to people like me, that there is someone like yourself who can take the time to find a way round these niggles and pass them on to others. Many thanks again John Edited By John Tee on 12/05/2016 12:38:40 Well you asked so nicely . V1.03 on the Tx is latest firmware version so no need for an upgrade. Ian Edited By Ian Jones on 12/05/2016 20:33:24 Edited By Ian Jones on 12/05/2016 20:34:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hi Ian Thank you for the answer , have a Flash 8 now Rx's working fine Thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Hi. Just a quick follow up to this thread. Having successfully moved the model from 14 to 5 I went flying today. Plugged in the battery and checked the control surfaces all moving nicely, launched the model (Radian glider) and your probably ahead of me now put in elevator to climb out and nosed dived into the strip. It appears when a model number is tranferred to a new number for some reason it doesn't transfer the settings (elevator only servo reversed) which I was guilty of not checking properly, not expecting any changes as I thought the settings would be transferred as well. No major damage - now a four piece nose section which will glue back but the motor feels a bit funny. not had time to strip everything down yet as been out all afternoon. Lesson learned always check operation of servos properly after any changes in the TX. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tee Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 I do normally but didn't expect any changes. lesson learnt John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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