Jon H Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Andrew that mount looks pretty beefy so i think you will be ok moving to the end. As you rightly say the triangular webs will add alot of rigidity and our 80 runs very smoothly so i think you will be fine. As for the fuel tank, if you were running a 60 2 stroke on 15% nitro like our american friends then you would need 12oz and more in the fuel tank dept. But as you are using a very fuel efficient 4 stroke and low nitro fuel your fuel consumption will be significantly lower. As for performance, the hog will arguably be a touch overpowered with the 80, but after some run in time you can use the 15x6 prop we talked about before and run the engine at low rpm while still getting high thrust from the prop. This will make the engine very quiet if you have noise issues at your club. You can also use the extra performance for large loops etc which can be flown very slowly due to the high thrust output of the 15x6. This means you wont have to rush in at high speed and can just open the throttle as you pull up and slowly cruise round. It looks very graceful when done correctly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Ok no going back now. Holes are drilled its full steam ahead on the fuzz when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Has anyone got C of G details for a Flair hog along with recommended control movements by any chance ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Flair astro hog C of G 4" back from leading edge of the wing. Should balance slightly nose down in "a gliding attitude". Aileron - foam wing 8mm up, 5 mm down, built up wing 16 mm up 9 mm down. Aileron differential essential. Elevator 16 mm each way, Rudder 38 mm each way. There is a note, "Don't worry if you do not get these figures exactly but do get the differential movement. The instructions show how". Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Thank you, this is an old one I picked up but have no information with it. Looking on line I have not found much so far. This one has built up wings and split pins used for hinges on the elevator and rudder, ailerons are taped the full length. It's covered in material, doped and painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Guys sorry its been a while. Been busy with work and trying to squeeze in some build time with family commitments has been a bit of juggling act. Build up date I have some photo for you guys just need to put them on. I am at the filling and sanding stage at the moment. I am about to start fuel proofing and covering and I have a question. Its been a while and I can not remember if you can cover over fuel proofed areas with solar span? Also is it a good idea to balsa lock the hole model before I cover it using solar span. Jon took your advice and I bought a 9oz slec tank, its a great fit. It is as low as I can get it with out it sticking out of the fuzz. Its center line is still slightly above the carb but much better than when I had the 10oz dubro tank in it. Just itching to get it up and running now. I will try and get some photos on tonight guys. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 As promised guys a few photos of the build so far. Right first photo is one half of the wing I have not finished the sheeting as I wanted to have the wing open when I glued the two half's together so I could make sure everything has as it should be. Second is the wing completed but with out the ailerons. Here is the stab ready for final sanding and hinging. and two more of the fuzz under construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Looking good, Andrew. I'm not sure your tailplane is quite ready for covering though. I don't know about the Sig kit but, if I remember rightly, the original Fred Dunn plan calls for the ribs to be built up to the top of the spar with balsa wedges. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Jon took your advice and I bought a 9oz slec tank, its a great fit. Phew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 Trevor yes I know what you mean. This is the first hog I have built and I was surprised about the way the instructions said to build the tail plane. I even went out and read through the instructions again after reading your post but this is correct as per the instructions. Later in the instructions they have a photo of the tail plane covered. You can see the top spar through the covering so strange but correct as per the instructions. I was a little concerned as the tail plane was a bit flexible so I added webbing between the spars to stiffen the tail plane. You can just about see them on the photo, still had to add a few more. I am not to worried about the extra weight at the rear as I am sure im going to be nose heavy with the laser 80 in the front. Another thing I noticed while building the fuzz and trail fitting the tail was that there is a gap between the fuzz and the front half of the tail plane. To get the correct incidence for the tail the rear is flush with the fuzz but you have a gap on the front half. Looking at the plan it does show this but no mention of it in the instructions. It took a bit of time but I feathered some long wedges( I'm talking 2mm to nothing half of the tail) to fit in these gaps and secured them. I haven't changed the incidence just filled the gaps. Yet another thing that surprised me is the fixing point for the tail. as per the instructions you are relying on the thickness of the fuzz sides to hold the tail secure. Nothing between the fuzz sides! Quite a gap. So I made some lite ply wedges to fit between the fuzz sides. This will triple the surface area the tail has to secure it. I have some photos of this will post them tonight. next colour scheme for the hog. Need to make a decision as I can be covering elevators, ailerons, rudder and wing while I am waiting for the fuel proofer to dry. Oh got to get it built up the check the C of G before I cover the fuzz. Got to get a covering iron to. Is it worth paying the extra and getting a digital one? I remember using the other half's iron to cover my planes and then getting a right rocket when she came to iron my white shirts and as she irons finding nice streaks of red blue on my shirts Photos later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Andrew, I do have a digital iron but my personal favourite is still this one: http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=47885 The shape of the sole plate is very versatile and I find I'm less likely to bruise the balsa than with the flat soled type. The tailplane on the Hog is more than strong enough for any flight loads. Of course, only you know what sort of loads you are likely to put on it whilst loading it into the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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